I’m planning my next layout and looking for an alternative to the Peco code 55 track I have used in the past-something with a North American profile.
Can someone offer Pros and Cons between the other brands? I’ve heard the Atlas code 55 is hard to ballast and to lay curves with.
Thanks, S.
Choochoosamcandi1987,
That’s a long screen name. I see for some reason, no one said Boo to You yet, so Boo and,
[#welcome] To The Forums.
I am a HO-scaler myself, but knowing track, I can safely say that you have been misinformed, about Atlas track. Cheaper than Peco and in my opinion, just as good. This site explains about Atlas track. Have a look for yourself:
http://www.atlasrr.com/superflex.htm
Frank
Atlas N code 55 tracks are goog, but sometimes hard to find.
If you wish, take look also on Kato N scale tracks - they are easy and robust and come with build-in roadbed, so no need for ballasting.
Why do you want to replace Peco tracks?
I don’t want to replace Peco C55 track as mentioned in last post above. It is by far the best track I have ever used, and now on my new build. Been in N scale for thirty years. Tried Atlas long time ago and did not care for it’s spring back when installing curves. Then went to Shinnohara C70 and used it for a long time before they stopped making it and switched to Peco. Never looked back. Tie spacing is a touch wider but I don’t intend to own a rivit counter. Peco is really a very reliable track with everything you need, turnouts etc., to build a nice well running model railroad. I also like the way the rail joiners slide in below the main lower track flange on the C55 track. My new build is track installed, wired and running perfectly with DigiTrax DCC. What a great time in model railroading. Doug
I have a layout that uses Peco code 55 as well. The stuff is practically bullet proof, and they have a nice selection of different sized turnouts. The only drawback, in my opinion, it the wider tie spacing. I am contemplating using Micro Engineering code 55 on my next layout. The appearance is more like the North American prototype, and I believe is readily available. ME track flex track is somewhat stiff, just like the Peco. The one drawback to ME is that currently they only offer a #6 turnout. You could always put in some Atlas code 55 #5’s, #7’s or whatever. Or you could build your own. I am toying with that idea myself. Fast Tracks makes jigs and tools to aid you in building your own turnouts. While the upfront cost is high, if you are going to have several turnouts, in the end they can actually be less expensive than those bought commercially. And if you really feel like taking a plunge, many build their own turnouts without a jig. They use some track gauges and downloadable paper templates.
Scott
Also, Micro Engineering turnouts aren’t always available, and there’s been that supply problem with Atlas’s track for what seems like forever, whereas Peco is always available.
I tried samples of Kato, Atlas and ME track and turnouts before I built my N scale layout. I expect Peco is good too but I found it too expensive and the minumum quantity of track I would have to purchase was too great.
In any event I used mostly ME track and turnouts along with a few Atlas in the yard. I liked the stiff nature of the ME track and also the spring loaded turnouts.
I bought the pre-weathered track but wouldn’t do that again as all the turnouts must then be aged with the same solution plus it is hard to rub off the aging in order to get a clean surface for electrical connections. It also makes the flex a little harder to work with. Mind you it does look nice.
Just my opinion and experience as noted.
CN Charlie
Like Charlie, I’m using ME code 55 flex. I still have a few Atlas turnouts on hand and have slowed tracklaying until they become available again. I’ll build what I can until that happens. I’ve not used ME turnouts, but wouldn’t hesitate to if needed, although they only make #6s.
I, too, like the fact ME flex track holds its shape. It makes it possible to form it on the layout, then lift it off and take it to the work desk, cut and file the end(s), put the joiners on, and then put it back and secure it down. If you are used to the “wet noodle” flex, the first time will take about 20 minutes. The second about 10. Then you’ll have it down and it goes pretty quickly.
BTW, I use the weathered flex and had no problems getting the top of the rails clean. Use an abrasive cleaner like a Bright Boy, or my latest acquiition is a Woodland Scenics track cleaner, which is a wand that various types of pads secure onto. I think the "maintenance pads"would clean pretty much anything.
I would like to make the transition to code 55 track. I’ve built a few code 80 layouts, all of them small. I am currently working on my first large code 80 layout (U shaped 4x8 with 3x4 wings) and finding it difficult (I’m also trying to build it for DCC which I’d like to get into as well). It looks like code 55 would be more difficult to work with then code 80. Is the track as hard to work with as it seems? I have some code 55 that I’ve recieved (by accident?) with track lots I’ve purchased. It looks great but not very easy to lay.
My track laying skill is average at best. I can draw out my layouts but have to use flex as I cant figure out the needed pieces for sectional (it’s been 35 years since I’ve done this and things seem to have changed a bit LOL). I’ve tried the track planning software but cant figure out how to use them well.
Any advice on whether or not I should try code 55 or stick with code 80? If I should give it a try what brand should I start with?
Hi, I’ve built 3 layouts with Peco Code 55 and would highly recommend it for anyone, especially if you doubt your tracklaying skills. It is robust and forgiving especially with the track mounted switch machines. My portable display layout has been on the road for 14 years and has never had any track problems. Peco’s only drawback is its European appearance. If you can live with that it is bulletproof.
Scott
I dont mind the appearance. I doubt I’d even notice. It took me a while to realize I had code 55 mixed with code 80 in my box of track pieces.
When soldering your track do you use the soldering jig? Is that a skill I need to work on? I tried but ended up burning one after a few tries. I can freehand it ok and I file down any high spots.
Do you solder over joiners or just solder the track itself?
How do you get the ties to look right at the joints?
Do you strip them back or just solder with the rib on? Or do you replace the ties that have been stripped back to make the connection?
Sorry for all the questions.
Nick
I dont think I would notice the differance in appearance to be honest.
Should I learn to use the soldering jig or continue freehanding my joints and filing any imperfections?
Do you strip back ties when soldering or solder with the rib on to maintain tie spacing? If you strip them back, how do you get replacement ties to space so they look correct?
Do you solder with a joiner on or just rail end to rail end?
If I solder power feeds to the bottom of the rail (to hide them) and drop them down a hole under the track am I going to run into problems later on?
Sorry for all the questions.
Nick
This thread is 14 months old and I haven’t changed since I wrote a comment on April 11th. You get what you pay for and I like bullet proof track and turnouts of any configuration needed. Thats PECO. My layout has had most of the track installed and wired for over a year now except for a few sidings and absolutly reliable in every way. This is my third layout and probably my last and I wanted to build it right! Oh, and I am not a rivvvettt counter on the few hunderdths difference on tie spacing. Once ballasted and weathered only the NMRA inspection team can tell. Besides, it’s my railroad.
I have been working on scenery mostly now but it is summer and I live on an acerage that keeps me real busy this time of year. Doug
Hello,
As an Nscaler since nearly it exist, I have try lot of brand of track, from Arnold Rapido to Peco
About Peco, it’s for sure the more reliable track system on the market in Nscale whith a quiet good prototypical appearence.
Peco code 55 since it’s appears is a bullet proof track, I have used it since it’s beginning, of course ties spacing is’ts not really the american ones, but I firmly beleive whith good ballast and weathering it’s not really noticiable.
The bullet proof quality is real but after more than 20 years of use some of my turnouts show some bd contacts or I must say false contacts between points and rail, this due of the two tabs which retains the points; these after time of use take some play and give some false contacts.
I answered to this problem by soldering the hinged point and never had any more bad issue whith them.
When code 55 was on the market, DCC was just a rumor and by today DCC standard these Peco turnouts need some modification to be DCC bullet proof.
Even I didn’t use them anymore I have modified a few by my standard for a layout friend and reports say he never had any trouble whith these turnouts, see the following pictures.
This is a Peco turnout where I have isolated the frog by cutting the rail whith a jeweler saw &qu