I have two N scale locos, an Atlas RS-3 and an Atlas RS-11, also, the Micro-Trains recommended couplers (1015/1016) to make the conversion.
A little too much invested to just start prying. Could someone tell me the best way to do the conversion. It looks like I need to remove the shell, am I right? If so, how do I do it?
Any other recommendations on how to simplify the conversion appreciated.
Also, recommendations on assembling the couplers would be very helpful too.
Last part of the question: what radius is concidered the limits of the short shank couplers? The other pair is considered regular shank.
If you have the newer Atlas releases, they should be body mounted couplers and you shouldn’t need to remove the shell. The old Accumate couplers should come out after removing the small screw.
I’d recommend that you purchase the pre-assembled MT 1015/1016 as it will save you from having to assemble the coupler before it goes into the loco. They make the conversion much easier (as I’ve never found it very easy to assemble them).
Not sure how to answer your shank question. I’m sure someone with more experience with that can chime in.
On the more recent production of the RS-3s, in which the Rapido coupler is body-mounted, there should be a small, thin clip the secures the Rapido coupler onto the locomotive. Turn the engine over, and gently pry the clip up, discard the Rapido coupler and the tiny slip of metal on the clip. The 1015 should slip right into the pilot. Reinsert the clip and the coupler is converted. There should be no need to remove the shell. Refer to the 1015/1016 instruction sheet to determine if you will need to add a shim.
(I’ve never seen the RS-11, but I would be surprised if it took a different conversion.)
On the older RS-3s (pre-1999 production), on which the coupler is in a housing on the trucks, and the pilot is a slot to allow the coupler to swivel, the coupler housing has to be removed from the truck, and a special conversion kit installed. The conversion kit contains a piece that fills in the slot, and the coupler is built into this.
I seem to remember in older versions of Kadee/Micro-Trains literature, that they gave a track radius over which one used the 1015, and under which used the 1016. However in the current instruction sheets, this information is not given.
Scott, no experience yet. Your comment makes the work sound omnious, but looking at the package of parts the job looks that way too.
The RS-11 has truck mounted couplers, evidently new/old stock. Mother can’t find hers at the moment so I’m not sure on that one. I know it was purchased in '04, but could be old stock too.
Will look into the assembled couplers, but the ones I got were the ones listed on the MT site as what I wanted. Not sure if it is because they are the older versions or what. Will do more investigating before I go much further.
Since it looks like I may have to remove the trucks, any suggestions on getting the shell off?
You do not need to remove the shell,what you do need is a sharp pair of side cutters.If you study the opposite end of the truck from the coupler you will see where to cut and where not to cut.If you have the pilot adapters and couplers that have to be assembled you have nos parts.You can buyjust the 1015/16 couplers already assembled that will fit right in place.
As to curve radius 11" or lager should be fine for the 1015s.( if at all possible stay away from the 9.75" radius curves as you are just going to end up with a layout that looks toylike and cars (and locos) that don’t like your curves.
As to locos with full pilots as mentioned above there is a black clipthat holds the coupler on,simply pry up on it carefully keeping track of which way it goes (there is a front which is flat) there will be a short piece of copper strip which acts like a centering spring for the rapido coupler,Acumates won’t have this so it’s not a problem.Anyway,pull the clip trmove the little strip ,slide the 1015/16 into the opening and put the clip back and you will have knuckle couplers.You may have to shim the coupler up or down but MTL includes shims for the purpose.
Any problems don’t be afraid to ask for more assistance.Remember this “There is no such thing as a dumb question,only a dummy who is afraid to ask .”
The reason I asked for your MT experience is that assembling the couplers can be a bit tricky at first. I didn’t even think of buying the pre-assembled ones. If you are going to assemble them yourself, you definitely want to buy the assembly jig, it makes it much easier. I have one older RS-3 and two of the newer ones. The newer ones, like previous posters have said, are body mounted. Just unscrew the Accumate coupler and replace with the MT, no problem. The older RS-3 had the truck-mounted Rapido couplers. I cut the couplers off and tried to use styrene to build up a coupler pocket for the 1015/1016. I was unsuccessful. So I went to Atlas’ website and ordered a new sill unit that was made for body-mount couplers. It was only a couple of bucks. I swapped it out and was able to install the MT couplers with no issues. I only had to do very minimal filing on one end of the sill so it would slip over the frame, no big deal for even this less experienced modeler.
Does the replacement sill have the coupler box in it, so that all you have to do is change the coupler? If so, what coupler did you use.
Sounds like it may be my best option, since I cannot see how to get to the back side of the truck without removing it, and I think I have to remove the shell to do that. Haven’t figured out how to do that either.
Think I may have the wrong replacement for at least one of them due to age. Oh well.
There are two separate replacement parts the RS-11 and the RS-3. The kits include a new pilot conversion to close up the big hole as well as the coupler box.
You do have to cut off the truck mounted coupler box, but you have to do it very carefully, as part of the box is used to secure the side frames to the truck. Once they’re done, you have to install the new pilot inserts, then put in the couplers. The little screws hold the whole thing together by attaching it to the walkway from below.
It’s not difficult, but it is easy to mess up if you’re not careful.
I can try to take some pictures to clear up the assembly for you. But the first thing you need to do is get the right conversion kits.