I’ve grew up with O Gauge and HO trains, but I’m still new to the world of N Scale trains. I have an engine, a bunch of cars and some track which I’ve setup on a table. I’ve been letting my kids take turns at the controls which they enjoy. I have to admit it’s been fun.
However…it always seems that a couple of times around the track and something comes uncoupled. Half the train is sitting there while the engine races away. It’s not always the same cars either.
The cars come with two different types of couplers (according to the box) - Rapido Coupler and the “New MDC Knuckle Coupler”. Which one is which, I honestly have no clue. I’m currently using the one that’s not squarish and dorky looking. But I’m guessing that the dorky looking one is probably the one that doesn’t decouple as often?
Do I continue to use the more realistic looking one and keep losing half the train? Do I convert to the “other” coupler? Or is there a third option?
The uncoupling is a common problem with me using the Rapido(the dorky ones) when I get more than about ten coaches lashed up. They just work up over each other as it travels along. The third option is to convert to Micro trains couplings easy to replace complete bogie but you can get the conversion to go onto existing bogies but …make sure that thet are all at the same hight or you will still uncoupling problems .
The uncoupling is a common problem with me using the Rapido(the dorky ones) when I get more than about ten coaches lashed up. They just work up over each other as it travels along. The third option is to convert to Micro trains couplings easy to replace complete bogie but you can get the conversion to go onto existing bogies but …make sure that thet are all at the same hight or you will still uncoupling problems .
The “dorky” Rapido couplers have been around for as long as N-scale has been in existence. They don’t look very good, but are usually (if anything) reliable. I have some experience with the MDC couplers, and I don’t like them either. They are certainly not very common, and I’d recommend you dump them for either the Micro-Train coupler (“MT’s”), or the Atlas Accumate coupler. The MT’s have been around the longest, and are bullet-proof. The Accumates are newer, and are not bad (some people have experienced problems and don’t like them).
Last Train, you don’t say who the manufacturer of your N scale equipment is, but at least some must be from Model Die Casting (Roundhouse), as you mention its dummy coupler, which is intended to mate with the Micro-Trains and Accumate magnetic knuckle couplers. Virtually everyone who seriously models in N scale has converted to Micro-Trains couplers. The Accumate is a similar coupler sold by Atlas that has only recently become available. Kato now also sells a magentic knuckle coupler as a replacement part for its newest cars and engines.
Micro-Trains has 12 different freight car truck types available, many with or without couplers and different draft gear lengths. Accumate now has four different types of freight car trucks, all of which include couplers. Micro-Trains makes conversions for most locomotives, but these do require some expertise with tiny springs! Check their website at http://www.micro-trains.com for the correct one for your locomotive.
As a happy HO modeler who uses the virtually fool-proof KD couplers, I’m considering N-Scale for a portable and small-space switching layout. But, I’m
discouraged by the foregoing posts. Is N-Scale just for long train, long distance running with little switching? Open and frank advice is sought. TIA
Considering that Micro-trains is the other half of the split of Kadee between Keith and Dave Edwards, you’d end up using the virtually fool proof KD coupler in N scale, too! The Rapido coupler is the equivalent of the X2F in HO - a lot of the cheaper stuff comes with it but almost everybody changes it out. Like the McHenry and Accumate in HO, Accumates and the new Kato coupler are clones of the Micro-Trains (originally Kadee) N scale coupler. Personally, I have no trouble switching using magnetic between the rail ramps and Micro-Trains couplers in N. If you can install Kadee’s on an HO locomotive, you can do the same with a Micro-Trains on an N scale one. The newest Diesels and now steam in N run so smoothly that switching is a real pleasure. I love my MDC Consolidations converted into PRR H3c’s for switching![:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]
Hello my name is Larry
i do both N scale and HO both for me it is kadee , micro trains or nothin it dont go on the layout till it got approipriate couplers on it horn hooks rapidos/dorky as you call them pilem up and burn them!!they are absolutey worthless waste of plastic!!
I apologize for not stating the manufacturer but you are correct that the majority of the equipment is made by Roundhouse. It looks like I’ll be investing in some new couplers in the near future.
Thank you for the excellent information and the quick responses!!
I agree with the other posers to this topic:
Every Nscaler has learned to convert couplers:
Rapido couplers are dorky, do work, but cost the least (free).
Micro-Trains (KD) are the best but cost too much. Most Nscalers have a converter car with 1 type of coupler on each end until the whole fleet is done.
Rapido couplers do not mate with MT
Accumate may be ok, they are fairly new.
MDC couplers seem to be junk. I don’t know if they have too much flash or nubs to make them useful. Paint them rusty, scatter them around the car shop, make scrap load material!
Also, be careful that all couplers have the same height. I hate droopy couplers!
AHHHH!. Having modeled in HO for years with Kadee couplers I just assumed that the industry had developed a suitable and standard coupler for all gauges. NMRA Horn Hooks may have been the “industry standard” for years but lets face reality, the HO standard was Kadee for years and then along came McHenry. Well, wlecome to N scale. Having just joined a new club in a new town and deciding that and N scale train might be fun I bought my first N scale equipment. Just how old is this scale anyway and why are couplers such a problem? My new Kato passenger set has great running locomotives and very nice looking cars that won’t stayed coupled. Can’t get around the layout with leaving cars strewn all over the place. Form looking on the web and taking with other N scale modelers this seems to be a real problem with a lot of excuses from producers. Now, does any one have solution to the problem with these Kato (or N scale in general) couplers or should I just put the set on Ebay and stick to HO.
I put up a post on a similar problem but with not much luck in reply. I just have an Atlas SD-50 (n scale) that I am trying to mate to a run of Deluxe Innovations Triple Crowns. Both have Accumates. The coupler on the SD sits much higher than that of the cars and I have found no real way to fix this problem. I let the screw out on the SD to lower the coupler, yet I’m afraid I need a better method. Is there any spacers or such to help adjust the height? Anyone know?
I model in N scale. To enjoy hours of problem free running, it will be wise to convert and standardize your couplings on your engines and rolling stock to MT couplers. I don’t like Accumates or the MDC couplers as they tend to uncouple especially with long trains. If you intend to do MT body mount couplers try to buy the unassembled kits to reduce costs. Check the MT website as they have a conversion chart. http://www.micro-trains.com/
Cheers,
Cliff http://cliffordconceicao3310.fotopic.net/c328807.html
One thing that hasn’t been emphasized in this thread is the importance of getting a coupler height gauge (and using it!). N scale couplers, especially MT and other knuckle style, have a small vertical range. If the couplers are mismatched in height to begin with, any track that causes car height to change (turnout frogs, crossings, trackwork imperfections, poor transition to grades, etc) will cause the couplers to over/under ride. MT sells a coupler height gauge. Use it to adjust all your knuckle couplers. Just don’t leave it on the track when you turn the power on. You really don’t want to know what happens when you do - the search through all your wiring for a short circuit sitting right in front of your face, or if you somehow avoid that, an automatic coupling with an immovable bumper when your least expect it.
Why do I always have to learn from my own mistakes?
Fred W
It used to be, despite their “dorky” looks, the Rapido couplers were at least reliable. However, i’ve noticed on some recent models that some Rapidos are too stiff, and just don’t work well. It seems quality control on the Rapidos is being neglected.
I’ve grew up with O Gauge and HO trains, but I’m still new to the world of N Scale trains. I have an engine, a bunch of cars and some track which I’ve setup on a table. I’ve been letting my kids take turns at the controls which they enjoy. I have to admit it’s been fun.
However…it always seems that a couple of times around the track and something comes uncoupled. Half the train is sitting there while the engine races away. It’s not always the same cars either.
The cars come with two different types of couplers (according to the box) - Rapido Coupler and the “New MDC Knuckle Coupler”. Which one is which, I honestly have no clue. I’m currently using the one that’s not squarish and dorky looking. But I’m guessing that the dorky looking one is probably the one that doesn’t decouple as often?
Do I continue to use the more realistic looking one and keep losing half the train? Do I convert to the “other” coupler? Or is there a third option?
The uncoupling is a common problem with me using the Rapido(the dorky ones) when I get more than about ten coaches lashed up. They just work up over each other as it travels along. The third option is to convert to Micro trains couplings easy to replace complete bogie but you can get the conversion to go onto existing bogies but …make sure that thet are all at the same hight or you will still uncoupling problems .
The uncoupling is a common problem with me using the Rapido(the dorky ones) when I get more than about ten coaches lashed up. They just work up over each other as it travels along. The third option is to convert to Micro trains couplings easy to replace complete bogie but you can get the conversion to go onto existing bogies but …make sure that thet are all at the same hight or you will still uncoupling problems .
The “dorky” Rapido couplers have been around for as long as N-scale has been in existence. They don’t look very good, but are usually (if anything) reliable. I have some experience with the MDC couplers, and I don’t like them either. They are certainly not very common, and I’d recommend you dump them for either the Micro-Train coupler (“MT’s”), or the Atlas Accumate coupler. The MT’s have been around the longest, and are bullet-proof. The Accumates are newer, and are not bad (some people have experienced problems and don’t like them).
Last Train, you don’t say who the manufacturer of your N scale equipment is, but at least some must be from Model Die Casting (Roundhouse), as you mention its dummy coupler, which is intended to mate with the Micro-Trains and Accumate magnetic knuckle couplers. Virtually everyone who seriously models in N scale has converted to Micro-Trains couplers. The Accumate is a similar coupler sold by Atlas that has only recently become available. Kato now also sells a magentic knuckle coupler as a replacement part for its newest cars and engines.
Micro-Trains has 12 different freight car truck types available, many with or without couplers and different draft gear lengths. Accumate now has four different types of freight car trucks, all of which include couplers. Micro-Trains makes conversions for most locomotives, but these do require some expertise with tiny springs! Check their website at http://www.micro-trains.com for the correct one for your locomotive.