N-scale steam locomotives - how to reconnect rods between drivers and valves?

I have a Key n-scale 2-10-4 steam locomotive. It runs perfectly except one of the connecting rods that connects the main drive rod to the valve gear has come loose. The tiny bolt has come out. Of course there is a tiny hole in both rods so if I could find a tiny nut and bolt it would be easy. But where to find such a tiny bolt. Contacting Key is out of the question since even when they were in business, they answered no questions. Any ideas where tiny microbolts are to be found? I have phosphor rod of the right diameter, but no way to fashion a head and a nut for it.

thanks for any help.

thecreator of the PPVRR

Have you tried Northwest Short Line?

http://www.nwsl.com/uploads/chap5_web_09-15.pdf

You’ll have to scroll down. They have all kinds of screws and nuts.

Andre

Andre-

THANK YOU! I never heard of them. I will go take some measurements and see if I can find a nut and bolt that will do. Frankly, if you want to persist in this hobby, one needs advice from one’s friends. Thanks for taking the time to respond. I will try to attach a photo of the PPVRR.

Tony Picardi

I assume you no longer have access to the small baggy of extra parts that Key used to put in the boxes (usually under or in a small notch in the foam)? Usually if the model was stored or displayed, the parts are still tucked away in the box. Most of the time, however, runners took the baggies out and lost them. Hopefully yours are still in the box (if you have it), and if not, NWSL (already suggested up thread) may have something.

I’m presuming this is the joint between the forward end of the eccentric rod and the tail of the expansion link.

As a workaround until you have the right hardware, since this isn’t a structural connection you could make a short ‘rivet’ out of a thermoplastic material like a short length of fishing line, and put a head on both ends with a soldering iron or similar tool that can be heated. Form a head on one end, clean up any cutoff ‘flat’ or bulging on the other end and put it through the ‘holes’ with the head inside, then rest the head on a large flat screwdriver with the engine cradled on its side, and melt over the end until it will stay in position.

This will be essentially self-lubricating for an extended period, can be painted to match new or weathered valve gear, and with a little care the head could be ‘tooled’ or carved to better represent the actual fastener securing this joint on the prototype.

Comes off with a quick snip of the Xurons when you’re ready to replace it, too.

Overmod-

Thank you for your suggestion. I will try the fishing line fix. I think I can find a diameter that will work and besides the striped bass won’t mind if I use some of their leader.

thecreator, PPVRR