I am on a low budget, and as most know I am sure, the nice trees from Woodland Scenics, etc, are really set to be on an HO scale. What’s the best way to get N scale trees that aren’t the HO standard and tower over all my buildings? Are using the armatures a good idea?
Joe
I don’t agree. When you buy Woodland Scenics trees, just buy the ones that are the right height for N scale, they look pretty good.
I have used the tree armatures with some nice results for deciduous trees. I can’t say the same for the pine tree armatures.
For pines, I make my own using the bottle brush method.
Craig
Joe -
Ah … no, the WS (you build 'em) trees come in several sizes. You can get “bags” of trees from about 1.5" to as big as your layout can handle. IIRC, the are 1.5" - 3" and 3" to 5" bags and I can go up to 5 " in N.). Bachmann sells packages of Wire Foliage Branches in a couple of colors that look pretty good if positioned correctly. Also remember that some trees DO tower over buildings!
Archer
First consider whether Woodland Scenics needs your money more than you need some trees. There are plenty of low cost options available.
As far as tree height goes, consider that most deciduous hardwood trees grow to a typical height of 60’ to 100’ tall. This means that your trees should be at least as tall as a 50’ N scale boxcar is long. Most commercial trees that are marketed as N Scale are way too short. In reality, trees really do tower over the trains!
Of course, there’s a fine line between realistic tree height and cluttering up the layout, so I usually stick to the 50’ boxcar rule, and that seems to work out pretty well…
You can see how I make my low-budget/high volume trees at my website.
I hope this is useful.
Lee
To create a layered conifer forest on a flat backdrop painted hill, I slice black loco box foam into layers about 1/8th in thick, and cut them as shown in the first photo.The second photo shows the layered conifers, that have been spray painted with varying shades of green, and glued as descending layers. If there is a 3-d portion of a hill in front, add some commercial conifers (60 variable size conifers/bag) 
I change the color of the deciduous trees that I make, (with the seasons). For a background canopy of trees, the trunks and branches do not have to show. I use 4" double ended olive skewers , or use a pencil sharpener to get shorter trees 2"-3" high. The skewers are stained in bulk in a plastic tray containing 1/4 in. of stain. Get cheap blue fiber glass furnace filters. Pull them apart into two layers, and spray both sides with dark green or black. then, cut rough circles. Push 4 or five circles onto the skewers and spray them with spray adhesive. Push on scraps for tree tops. I use either WS varied green or Fall colored medium foam turf.(or Static Grass). Swirl the trees into a heap of the desired colored foam turf. Pre-drill the places that the trees are to be “planted”, and spray paint the area with the desired random turf color. As stated above, I shove the tree trunks into pre-drilled painted holes and surrounding area. I change the entire forest canopy with the change of seasons.Following, is a view of the (beginning of planting), a lift-out Fall forest. Close-up trees, can be made with weed “trunks”, showing multi-branches with spray adhesive, onto which one sprinkles varied colored turf. For N scale, g
Joe -
Just another note, based on HH’s post regarding “small” trees. One technique that works well is to use full size trees closest to your “action” (trains or buildings) and gradually or not so gradually use smaller and smaller trees as you get farther and farther away or “going up a hill”. It’s called forced perspective and can make a very convincing presentation if done correctly.
Archer