Hmm, nothing appears burned or obviously damaged that I can see. No bulged caps. I do see some bare wire ont he black leads where you have the hot glue - are the black wires actually soldered to the board where they are supposed to be?
Seems decently designed, big gap between the input and output side on the PCB which is good, considering how small it is.
–Randy
That’s what I noticed too. Presumably you added the hot glue as an insulator? That much exposed wire doesn’t look “factory”
Yah. I just put it in after re soldering the leads to the board to insulate and keep things in place. Oh well, if nothing else, at least these picures might prove helpful for others who are having trouble and are not willing to immediately take their power supply apart.
I can’t see anything that looks bad. I agree with Randy–it almost looks as if the bottom black wire isn’t actually attached to the board.
Do you have a VOM (volt-ohm-meter)? I would ohm between the board and the black wire and see if there’s continuity, and maybe the plug and that wire.
The problem happened way before I started tinkering with it. It has nothing to do with it. I’ll see if I can dig up a voltmeter and tinker around…
Me personally, I would possibly power it on and take measurements at certain points to see if it’s actually working. If you are not familiar with high voltage then please don;t try it. Even if you are - be careful, it only takes s small slip of a probe to short something out and REALLY let out the magic smoke. In the words of Paul Carlsson, Mr. Carlsoon’s Lab on YouTube “If you follow along, you are doing so at your own risk” The circuit appears to be a common switch mode power supply circuit, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to trace out some common voltage points. Just ve very careful of the high voltage side. And remember that big capoacitor can store a really nasty jolt long after the input powr is disconnected. If you only have a HF level meter - don;t even try it. Those meters are not rated to handle the voltages you will see in there and have little to no protection
Assuming the low voltage output wires are not simply shorted, either from the long striping or from solder bridging - which if it was dead before you did that, then that isn;t the cause of the problem, figuring out just what compnent is bad without any visible damage is not going to be easy. I’d just as soon get a new one.
One thing you can do, it use maginifcation and look at both sides VERY closely, look for any cracked trace, or a broken solder joint on any of the components, or burn marks. If the power supply was dropped before it stopped working, it’s possible a solder joint or even a component itself cracked, under magnification you might be able to see this. Try that first, before trying to power it up.
I pretty much know what I’m doing, and I’ve had some nasty jolts. Not through any real carlesness, but rather accidental slips. It’s not fun, and in the worst one, it’s a very good thing it was my RIGHT hand and not my left, which kept the current from flowing through my heart. Just be careful and if you have the slight