My entire dcc system is currently running on a power pack set to the correct voltage. But it can barely handle anything above one sound locomotive, and I don’t want it as a permanant solution either. I want to try and fix the power supply that goes with the system, instead of buying a $30 new replacement. Is there a schematic out there for this? Or is it a company secret.
My Power Cab can handle three HO sound locos. You might have another issue. The Power Cab does have a current limit. You cannot exceed it. The hand unit has the limit. I believe, two amps.
The power supply is nothing fancy. Just the proper voltage and current it can supply. Probably has a voltage regulator. Easy enough to build if you are familiar with power supply electronics. I have built a few over the years but cheap enough to buy.
Edit. I found my Power Cab and I saw it is a switcher by the weight and what Randy said.
Rich
I read this as:
- The P114 NCE power supply is dead
- The OP is using some other power supply
The newest P114 is 13.8V and 2A made by Semag, (over there). Mine is a few years old and 13.8V and 1.8A made by W&T (same neighborhood)
I did not see an exact replacement on Ebay, but there are lots that are 13.5V and 1 amp. Maybe the OP’s replacement is of the 1 amp variety.
I saw one ''replacement for" the NCE but it did not specify amps.
There are also 5A power supplies. I do not know if that poses a risk for the power cab or not. I don’t think the NCE power supply is meant to come apart.
I read that he’s looking for a schematic for the NCF p114. I search around a little, and when I seen it was a wal wort, I was wondering what he wanted a schematic for.
I read that the OP is saying it will barely run one sound loco.
If that’s the case, Rich’s answer seemed right, as maybe something else is wrong.
BUT, I know nothing about NCE, so I’ll just watch [swg]
Mike.
I doubt it’s another problem, it’s just a power supply that is too weak.
A schematic? Well, it’s actually NOT that simple, that power supply is a switching power supply, so it’s actually fairly complicated. Look for one of those universal type wall warts, there a bunches that have selectable voltages, as long as 13.8V is one of them, and they come with multiple tips so you cna put the cirrect one on and just plug it in. But make sure it’s 13.8V at 2 amps. It’s not very common though, so it may be difficult finding one that doesn;t cost the same as the actual NCE one.
–Randy
The NCE power supply is not working. See earlier threads. I am currently using a DC powerpack for the layout. THAT is what cant handle more than 1 sound loco.
AHH, OK, so Henry was right, your NCE p114 is not working.
That’s clears that up!
Carry on,
Mike.
I do remember now thinking of making a back up power supply some years ago when I bought my Power Cab as I had extra electronics hanging around at the time.
I had an unused three amp 24 DC pack and could make a two amp LM317 regulator easily and trim it to 13.9 vdc. Life got in the way and never did it. The Cab always worked anyway.
Rich
If you have an old laptop computer brick, you could use one of these and set it to 13.8 v. If you want 2A, try this (comes with a spare), though you’ll need a meter to set it to the correct voltage).
The thing about the PowerCab is you MUST limit the input power to 2 amps. Otherwise, the PowerCab can fry itself by trying to pass whatever amount of current the power supply you are using can supply. There’s a cautionary note buried somewhere in the mess that is the NCE web site that mentions the absolute maximum you can use.
You certainly can use a higher current power supply, IF you include a fuse or circuit breaker that will trip at the PowerCab maximum - current isn’t ‘pushed’ into a circuit, it is drawn from a source. So you could happily use a 13.8V 100 amp power supply if you put a 2 amp fuse between it and the PowerCab.
–Randy
A LM317 regulator can easily be trimmed with a pot. I have done it many times. Some times I would solder in a fixed resistor of near standard value. Online calculators. You can find LM317 regulator circuits online also. Not difficult. I would fuse with a two amp fuse or maybe circuit breaker.
There is a module sold on ebay with a meter for a few dollars that does the regulating with a trim pot. Quite a nifty device. Comes from China. I have seen it in other forums. I think the MRH forum.
On Ebay they are called DC to DC buck boost power supply. Some with a meter.
Rich
I was hoping to fix my existing faulty power supply. Otherwise, I would just go and get the name brand replacement.
Those wall warts generally don’t come apart (well, you cna open it up, putting it back together again is a different story). Best bet is to just get the exact replacement and not worry about anything.
–Randy
Well, I have already succeeded in opening it. Thats why I want a schematic. To see if I can figure out what went amiss in the components.
I suppose you’ve tried to contact NCE?
Mike.
Really? One of these? 
My guess is it’s a switching power supply of some sort, probably with a buck regulator. You could take a picture of what’s inside…
If you get no output at all, chances are it was shorted and there is a fusible link that has fried.
–Randy
Yes garya, the very same. It actually was’t too hard. I will try to see if I can get a pic posted soon. That might help even more than a schematic.
Call me ?? but why risk the throttle to save a few penny’s?
go out and get the proper replacement! If you want to tinker with it an try to finger out how it works- fine but I would not risk my PC throttle NO WAY-
Here are the promised pictures of the inside: