For the very first time in the history of my N scale layout I need to do some
soldering to fix a loose terminal connector. I use the standard Atlas Code 80
nickel-silver sectional track (I’m no sadist - I can’t lay my own rail). I’ve actually
had very good luck thus far and this is the first time I’ll be using a soldering
iron on the WIAR ROW.
I’m looking for suggestions from other hobbyists on what the best solder and
flux material is that I can use (and a brand of soldering iron too if you have
opinions). I’ll be soldering the joints between two sections of straight track.
Any and all ideas/suggestions/advice will be greatly appreciated.
60/40 rosin core thin wire solder, I use very small solder and have a variety of irons, Ungar makess one of my favorites. Some recommend the old weller soldering irons, but I have not used mine in 30 years.
Size of element not as important as the ability to generate heat as measured by watts. 35 -40 watts with an 1/8" chisel point.
Of course, you can go off the deep end with a soldering station.
Just practice on old sections of track until you get the hang of it. THe objects you are soldering must be clean and in solid contact. Heat the objects until they can melt the solder.
No FLAME torces for any electrical soldering, ever on the model railroad.
Everything mentioned by “diligentman” is absolutely correct!
Nothing to add except: Heat the material then apply the solder to the material (not to the iron). Let it flow ,then remove heat and DO NOT MOVE the material until the solder is cool. The joint should be smooth, not grainy.
Oh yes cold solder looks the same as hot solder. Keep fingers away.
There’s a plethora of soldering advice on this forum and elsewhere on the web about soldering. Do an “advanced search” on the forum to find threads about soldering rails going back a few years. Also do a Google search for “soldering rail model railroad” or something and see what you get. One of the biggest concerns with soldering commercial track is melting the plastic ties, so you might want to include those words in your search criteria.
As for supplies, Radio Shack has all the stuff you need. They sell soldering irons and guns, flux paste, and rosin core 60/40 solder (get the smallest diameter you can - 0.032" or smaller). I woudn’t bother with lead-free solder because it’s harder to melt and for the amount you’ll be doing, the lead shouldn’t be a concern. Be sure to get non-corrosive materials for use with electronics (readily available at RS), and not the acidic stuff used for plumbing (available at Home Depot, etc.)
As others have mentioned, one of the most important things you can do is to practice on scrap pieces of track before applying the hot iron to your layout track.
Thanks to all for the prompt input! I will get over to Radio Shack tomorrow and I have some track
all ready for practice use. I’ll also do the Google search as suugested.
A word of advice for the wise and wary. Before you put a hot iron to the track, place a couple of wet cotton balls to either side of the iron. This will keep the rail from getting too hot and melting the ties, very easy to do in N scale. Been there, done that and learned from it.
good joint is shiny, a bad sodering job has a dull finish, get the tip hot before touching the rail or wire, a tad of melted soder on the tip will transfer heat very quick and then touch the part to be sodered…John