I have a set of older Athearn metal truck sides, the ones with an insulated axle hole on one side and a metal one on the other side. I just got some NWSL metal wheels to replace the old plastic ones. The new wheels are the exact same size (with axle points) as the old ones, yet do not turn as easily when placed in the trucks. Would that truck tuner help here? With BOTH sides of the truck, one being a metal receiver hole? I am not clear if that truck tuner is only for all plastic truck axle holes? Cedarwoodron
Cedar,
Yes, the truck tuners DO help and they can be sued used for both metal and plastic trucks. With that said, I would purchase two tuners and use one exclusively for your metal trucks and the other for your plastic trucks.
Tom
I have not seen this older truck you mention. This is for rolling stock with pointed axle ends if I read your post correctly. Is only one side fitted w/ the insulating plastic and the other “milled/ dimpled” into the metal side frame? The truck tuner may only end up cutting into the plastic side and only burnish/ smooth out any oxidation from the metal. This is desireable anyway, I would just go slow as not to cut too much out of the plastic insert. It could be possible to cut through and the axle point will cause a short (NWS are metal axles). I"m not familiar w/ this sort of truck and if mine would just switch out to a Delrin truck before wheel replacement. If you do still have trouble with the free wheeling using the NWS wheelsets, try another brand. Since you are dealing w/ metal truck/ sideframes I would use the Proto 33" wheelsets that use the plastic axle.
Are just the sideframes metal? Since these are not sprung, just how do those sideframes spread to change the wheelsets?
The only time I have use NWS wheels is to change out 42" diesel truck in both the Athearn BB “new” and the blunt ended for metal sideframes.
Rebox offers wheelsets of varying length axles just for instances like this.
Sorry, I should have been more specific, but I was writing as I got ready to go to work… The trucks are on an Athearn unpowered SW7 calf unit, probably a BB originally, which I picked up built at a flea market. The trucks are the same as on the powered cow SW7, therefore they have an insulated(Delrin) axle insert on one side of the truck assembly and a metal receptacle on the other side, on both sets of trucks. The metal sides are riveted to a Delrin truck tower, which is empty of any gearing, that swivels in the frame socket hole for each truck. The original wheels were metal axle+plastic wheel on the calf unit ( I presume they were all metal on the powered cowSW7 unit). I got replacement NWSL 40" all metal wheels for the calf, as I want a better, easier to maintain wheel set. The ones I bought were specified on NWSL’s website as the appropriate swap-out for this Athearn model. I notice the following: - the axle of the 45" original wheels is .45mm wider than the NWSL ones -the point-to-point length of the ORIGINAL wheel is about .3mm longer than the NWSL ones YET… The new ones appear to be a tighter fit in the truck axle holes than the old ones! I don’t want to ruin the geometry of the new wheels, so I am asking for input regarding the truck tuner from Micromark, before I spend more money and before I take further action on the trucks. I want them to roll smoothly. Any feedback on this would be appreciated. Cedarwoodron
I admit I’m not directly answering the question, but another approach is to power up this unit. The drive should just be a drop in. I’ve got a cow-calf set in Southern that is dual powered, drawbarred, and with 16 wheel pickup. It’s a sweet loco.
I should see if there’s room for some lead–MORE POWER
You’re saying that the original axle has both a larger diameter and a greater length than the new one. Yup, that’s a puzzler. I s’pose the angle taper of the conical ends could be different and cause the trouble. I do wonder if the truck tuner MIGHT run into trouble if the taper angles don’t match. That said, it does seem that it would work. But I haven’t done it. And neither have any of the other responders. So, you’re still kinda on your own.
I still gotta say that I’d go with a re-power. Ebay’s got a drive for about $20. If that doesn’t work, there must be others.
Ed
Can they also be sued for other things, like nickel-silver track, or scenery, or some extra quick cash?[:D]
It’s possible the new axles are a little wider than the old ones. If so, they would bind with the sideframes when it’s been reassembled.
Are these needle-point bearings, or are they the more typical blunt style used in most Athearn diesels?
WEEEEEEELLLLLLL…last night, I went back to the bench and re-assembled one truck with the new wheels and the other truck with the old wheels. As was the case the first time, the old wheels rolled freely, while the new ones did not, despite both sets of wheels being needle-point axles. I carefully cleaned all four axle receptacles with alcohol, used a small paint brush to clean out any debris, then realized that the insulator plastic rim, that sat AROUND the axle hole was rubbing the new wheel face itself, causing two things to occur- the wheel was encountering friction from the plastic rim, and the slight width of the plastic rim on each side of the truck frame was just enough to not allow a closed fit when the two halves of the truck tower were mated, hence the “binding” that Darth suggested, where the tightness stopped the easy roll of the axle. As I have no intention of powering this particular calf unit, I cut away the plastic rims with a flat xacto blade, reassembled the truck with the new wheels and- as the French say- Voila!- it rolled like the coefficient of friction did not exist! No MicroMark truck tuner was purchased, just careful attention to what was really happening where the new wheels were inserted. The “cap” of the plastic insulators remains now in the axle receptacle to provide stabilization of the wheel, so there is no sloppy motion of the wheel itself, and now, my problem is solved- on this one, at least. I also weighted the frame .5 oz over the 4.0 oz NMRA-appropriate weight, with the weight localized to the center recess of the frame (between the trucks) and this made it very stable when I rolled it on my test track. As a frugal modeler, my goal is to NOT spend money nickle-and-diming myself on each small restoration project. Analysis and patience are relatively inexpensive items, not generally available for purchase at a store or online! Thanks to all who responded! Cedarwoodron
I’d still purch
Are you makin’ fun of my lysdexia, Darth?!? Funny how you read and re-read something and still miss an error. LOL!
Tom
I agree with Marlon – the truck tuner is a great little tool to have around. It’s not like it’s hugely expensive; I’d go ahead and grab one.