I’m new to train collecting and need HELP! with a lionel zw 250 transformer. Everything seems to work on this zw but the overload light. I have tried switching the bulb with one that I know works and it still doesn’t light. Could it be the resistor wire? All the wires are connected and like I said, it runs trains in forward and reverse, and when tested on overload, it poped off. Just didn’t light the bulb. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Why don’t you pull the cover and see if the wire to the light is broken? Have you tired a even different bulb? If the breaker works, I don’t see what the big deal is on a simple fix like this!
As I said in my post, all the wires look good and I changed the bulb already with one that I know works. But no light. If it’s not the wires or bulb what else could it be?
First you have 2 lights one freen ( should always be on when plugged in) and one red only light if you have a short like a derailment. some others are better on this but believe I have this correct. the red bulb will not normally be lit
Try resoldering all of the connections to the socket and circuit breaker. I had a Flyer 16B transformer that had the same problem, and resoldering the connections solved it.
It could be an open circuit in the resistor or the lamp socket. But it could also be a short circuit in the socket. In that case, operation would be almost normal, but with the lamp off and the resistor taking the full transformer voltage when the circuit breaker opens.
Thanks for your help. I know that the red light doesn’t light up unless there’s a short but even when I intentionally derailed a loco, it didn’t light up as it should. The breaker worked like it should. Gotta be a short in a wire somewhere or maybe the resistor—?
sorry didn’t read whole post my fault but I have run into a few new to hobby who thought oine light was for power to one side and the other for power to other side
Thanks Jim and Bob. I think I’ll try to solder the connections and see if it works. Sometimes elimination is the word of the day. If its the resistor, can another be purchased and where? Thanks to all.
“LOL” rtraincollector. Not a problem. Thanks for your help
Mine almost never comes on with a simple derailment as I turn off power quickly. It does come on with a serious derailment. Have you let it ‘set’ with a derailment?
Maybe you need a heavier gauge wire running from the transformer the track?
wyomingscout
The only short circuit that would cause the lamp not to light would be in the lamp socket itself. Otherwise, it would have to be an open circuit.
Hey wyomingscout, I love ya!! Thats ok cause I’m a girl !! That was it. Every time I set the breaker off, I would immediately shut her down. Not enough throttle to see the light. I’m a happy camper tonight.
Thanks to all of you that came to my rescue. I love your blogs so I’ll be back. Gwen
Are you sure you have the right voltage bulb? I think the bulb should be a 6 volt bulb, not a 14 or 18 volt bulb. If the voltage rating is not right, the bulb will be very dim.
If the bulb has a number on it, check the voltage on the Internet, or swap the red bulb into the green bulb socket and see if it lights.
Agreed with servoguy. Check out the link below and check out the middle of the page. Whether your ZW takes a 6 volt or an 18 volt bulb depends on the model of the ZW, but a “250 watt” version probably takes a 6 volt.
Have you tested the shorted-out function with the red lamp cover off and a screwdriver across the output terminals (e.g., A and U or outside-rail to center rail*) with the red cap removed from the case, or with the case itself open? That way you might see a faint glow from the lamp filament even if it is an 18 volt bulb. If so, switch to a 6 volt bulb.
- Not for the faint-of-heart, especially the first time. Use a screwdriver with an insulating handle, and full throttle on the ZW. You will get a world-class spark, so be certain that there is no flamable material or vapor nearby. Use eye protection, mostly in case you lose your grip on the screwdriver – as I did the first time I tried it! Remove any electronic equipment (stuff with circuit-boards or other “solid-state” devices) from the track before trying this, as you might generate a brief but potent Transient Voltage Spike.
As wild as this sounds, many authorities recommend this test on any new-to-you post-war transformer, and periodically thereafter, to ensure that the circuit-breaker is working properly. Alternatively (or in addition) you can add your own fuse between the transformer and the track. For any ZW use a fuse no greater than 15 amps and preferably a bit less. I generally use 10 amp fuses or external circuit-breakers on each of my ZW’s output-posts on my small layout, in addition to TVS diodes – which are for a different purpose entirely.
Check out the middle of the page in this link:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/transfmr/pszw5.pdf.
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