I recently got an Arbour Models 2-8-4 Kanawha kit, and it’s missing all the screws, washers, rivets, handrail stanchions, worm bearings, the bottom plate for the gearbox, and the valve gear. I’m assuming these were all in one bag? The instructions are also missing. Would anyone happen to have these parts on hand? If so, I would gladly pay for them.[:)]
The HO Seeker website has the instructions to the Arbour 2-10-4 which I assume would be at least helpful in understanding your kit.
I used to see partially completed Arbour kits at swap meets – everyone has their own frustration level and it seems Arbour tested and exceeded nearly every one’s – but it is a few years since I have seen Arbour. I never once saw one of the larger Arbour locomotives in full running order! Good luck.
Dave Nelson
Maybe ebay, trains shows, even some Google searches. Little info in the below link. might take time.
http://www.hoseeker.net/otherhotrains10.html
rich
Darth,
I’ve gotta think that this one might be better done as a static model–maybe with the main rods and valve gear “removed”. My recollection is that these are nearly impossible to get to run. And keep running. I think the side rods were the same “pewter” as the rest of the loco, and that bodes ill. Reall ill.
If you persevere in this foolishness, I look forward to reading about your adventures. It will likely be a long book. Full of bad words.
That said, I wish you the best. I expect that if anyone can make this thing work, it’s you.
Oh, yeah. Precision Scale shows Baker valve gear in their catalog. A phone call might reveal if you can still get it.
Ed
Darth:
You really like a challenge don’t you![(-D]
Dave
Thanks for the tips! If I can’t find original parts, PSC might have what I need. I think the only screws where I may want original parts would be the ones for the siderods. Not sure if Bowser’s or other parts would fit or not.
The Tyco Chattanooga is another one many recommend to leave as a static model, but that didn’t stop me.[:)] If the white metal rods break, I’ll try making new ones from brass. The white metal crankshaft in my Keystone Shay fell apart pretty quickly, so I rebuilt that mostly from scratch and it’s been working great ever since.
Even if things are going wrong, you’ll get no cursing out of me.[:)] I prefer to keep my own speech as clean as possible, even when I’m alone. “Let no corrupting talk come out of your mouths, but only such as is good for building up, as fits the occasion, that it may give grace to those who hear.” (Ephesians 4:29)
Bowser bought the molds, etc. for the Arbour steamers, apparently with an eye toward updating them so they’d actually run, but as far as I know, nothing ever came of it. They may have some parts that you can use, but most likely they’d be for the PRR M1 or USRA Mountain kits. Not sure if the rods would be useful to you or not, but that may be another parts source for you.
That was aa refreshing answer without a useless Rant. I did the same with some Tyco locos over the years and got them to run quite well.
Thanks.
Rich
Hello Darth,
This is my first post to answer your question. I am currently working on the Arbour Kanawha and can help with providing a copy of the instructions. Mine is highly modified with many or the original castings switched out for brass castings and scratchbuild items. I used the original rod screws, but can take a picture to help you find possible alternatives. All have 0-80 threads and you can get the 0-80 nuts from walthers that fit in the recess behind each driver. I have the entire gearbox since I used a NWSL replacement, so I can help there. As far as the valvegear, all of it is basically a copy of the Precision Scale Baker type 2 kit. The valve gear hanger is a little different looks-wise, but should operationally be OK. The stancions are available from PSC. There are many tricks to get the mechanism running smoothly that I am happy to share in a private PM. I started this project over ten years ago, but did not progress to the detailing phase until I worked out all of the running issues (and there were many). The fun for me is getting this locomotive to perform as well as my brass Kanawhas. With all the years of experience working with steam locomotive kits, this is definitely the most challenging mechanically. The detailing phase is well underway using drawing and pictures from the C & O Historical Society. By the way, the metal used in this kit solders very nicely. Everything on my K-4 is soldered together, which I get a weird thrill out of. With continued luck, this Kanawha will soon be joining my pool of K-4s taking turns at the point of The George and The Sportsman.
Joel
Modeling the C&O New River Subdivision circa 1949.
Mention of the Tyco Chattanooga Choo Choo model reminds me that that was a modifcation of an 0-8-0 of vaguely USRA lines that they also offered. And that in turn reminds me that years ago I picked up a Lee Town white metal kit which would turn the Mantua Tyco 0-8-0 into a Jersey Central class E3 or E-4, including clear vision tender. I never went any further with the project and never acquired the 0-8-0. I know we are not supposed to sell stuff on this Forum so I will merely say, if there are any Jersey Central steam fans out there – contact me privately.
Dave Nelson
CandOsteam, thanks for the reply! If you could send me scans or photos of the instructions, that’d be great! I was looking through the parts and managed to find the bottom plate for the gearbox, so that should be alright at least. The gears themselves appear to be good quality, so I can work with a cruddy box. My Balboa 4-4-2 had a rough gearbox, but after finding the gears themselves were good, I managed to modify the box for better mesh and it now runs silent and smooth as silk.[:D]
Walthers has the PSC Baker valve gear in stock, so I may be putting together a list of parts to order through the local hobby shop.
I usually like to figure out getting something to work smoothly on my own, but if I hit a dead end, I’ll be sure to send you a message asking for some tips.[:)]
Darth, will do. I’ll take pictures of the instructions later tonight and email them to your PM. I agree that it is best to try to get the original gearbox to play nicely because I had to pull the gear off the driver to swap in the NWSL gear and since the axle diameter is larger than what my quartering jig could accomodate, it was a bit tricking to get the original quartering back. Also, as you might have noticed the axle ends that insert into the plastic-centered drivers are knurled to hold, so pulling off a driver wheel weakens this joint when you put it all back together. Wish Arbour thought this part of the kit through better, but it is what it is (and that is part of the challenge!).
Joel
Darh, Check your messages, sent a link to pics of the instructions. Have fun. Joel
I’ve been searching around, and found replacements for just about everything! I found out the wrong pilot was included with the kit, so that’s all that’s left that I need to find. I tried e-mailing PSC yesterday, but haven’t gotten a response. Anyone know if anyone makes these parts?
I think PSC made the pilot, but I suspect the pump shield will have to be scratchbuilt or modified from something else. Fortunately, about a dozen prototype C&O K-4’s exist, so they can be measured.
Tom
Darth,
The pilot is easy. Nice casting of the C&O heavy pilot was offered by PFM (PIA) years ago. One occasionally surfaces on “that auction site”, but PSC now produces it. As far as the airpump radiator and shield combination, a close stand-in was produced by Calscale. There are 2 different sizes–large 7’-9" and small 7’-3". I think you want the smaller, but I will check my sources on the Kanawha (BTW this is pronounced “ka-naw” and FYI, the C&O being in the southern part of the country did not like the Berkshire designation for the 2-8-4 class; too “northerly”, so the C&O named this class after the Kanawha River). These castings are also still easy to find. Finally, you will need 2 cross compound air pumps to sit behind each shield.
The Arbour Kanawha I’m finishing up has many modifications to reflect a specific locomotive in 1949. Not all Kanawhas look the same, as Lima and Alco made small changes in the orders they filled.
Hopefully we’ll see your Kanawha (or “Big Mike” as the men who ran them nicknamed them) rolling in the near future.
Joel
I think that Cal-Scale (Bowser) also offers the pump shield/radiator as a kit with two cross-compound air pumps and the mounting brackets for Cal-Scale pumps. In my admittedly-old Cal-Scale catalogue, it’s KIT-2006 for the small shield and KIT-2005 for the larger one.
While PSC offers a wide range of stanchions of varying styles and lengths, the more-recently available ones from Cal-Scale are, in my opinion, superior if a standard length and style will fit your needs. They’re very similar to the very nicely-done ones once offered by MDC, all machined brass and very uniform. The part number is 190-604 for a packet of 20.
As for the outside bearing lead truck, Bachmann offers the one from their Berkshire as a separately available part - their site obscures the part number (it’s multi-piece, but comes fully assembled), and it is available:
bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_68_198&products_id=1437
I used them to modify my already-modified Athearn Mikes:
Wayne
Darth,
BTW, the Pyle National headlight will need to be mounted to a headlight bracket placed below the swing out smoke box door just like on the real thing. Arbour incorrectly cast a shelf in radiator/shield unit so the headlight can have a place to sit. This will not be there in the Calscale substitute. Arbour also did it to hind the empty space where the radiator that cools the air pumps should be. Wayne pointed out the Calscale kits include all the fun bits that you will now be able to see if you want them in. When you are ready, I can tell you more about the proper placement of the Pyle headlight so it looks right. The headlight is a key distinguishing feature of C&O steam that sits low and imposing![:D]
Joel
Darth,
Just dawned on me that Greenway products has the correct C&O radiator/shield unit available. Check it out https://greenwayproducts.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=920
This brass casting includes the Pyle headlight and was used many years ago on a brass C&O L-2a hudson made by Ajin and imported by Overland. This radiator/shield unit was identical in K-4s, so you are good to go. BTW, Greenway is a good go-to source for steam guys since they obtained many brass parts used by the brass industry, including replacement brass drivers. If your “must-have” is not listed you can email Al at Greenway to check his deep inventory. Just so that you know, Greenway takes a break in the winter, but reopens in April. Good luck in hunting down whatever else you need.
I’m not sure how far you want to go with the detailing, but I have a list of brass parts I have used to prissy up my K-4 project if you are interested.
Joel