Last weekend (Saturday), I purchased an CSX AC4400 (CW44AC) worth $89.95. Can somebody give me tips? Is this unit any good–it looks detailed and has “DCC equipped!” It is an Athearn “Ready to Roll” product. Does it run smooth? Should it have been the price it was? I was just wondering ahead of time. Thanks,
Richard
Alstom,
Though I lean towards P2K, yes, the new Athearns are pretty good units. Lemons do pop up here and there (as with any brand) so test run your unit carefully. Be observant of your wheels and truck frames. Make sure there is now wobble or see-sawing.
As posted on another thread, a friend of mine had problems with two Genesis units he purchased. But this is the exception rather than the rule.
Athearns are tough and will run for years and years. Enjoy!
Thanks for the help! In fact, in alittle bit—I might go test run it!! But the problem is, my track is getting old and I have to replace it soon! That’s why I haven’t ran anything recently!! But I’ll try to run it.
Richard
Alstom,
Your track is getting old? What type is it? Flex, EZ, snap track?
Even with old track, a little polishing of the rails makes a big difference. If you’re having electrical pickup problems, it’s most likely at the rail joints. The thread on feeders is an excellent one.
Can you tells us some more about your track?
Well, it’s “snap track” and the engine usually dies at least twice all the way around, so it’s pretty bad.
Richard
Richard,
Yep, I understand. I currently have snap track on my 8 ft. long "shelf " module. Check your rail joiners! They’re the weakest link of any layout. Yours, like mine, have likely expanded over time. Replace them with fresh new joiners, which will fit snuggly on the rails. Polish your rails as well. Alcohol or a good Lacquer thinner work well. Only takes a few minutes on small or medium sized layouts.
After performing the above, unless you’ll notice results right away. Best overall solution are those “feeders”. Greatly cuts down on this headache.
One more thing, make sure your powerpack has enough juice for your requirements. Sometimes modelers, unknowingly underpower their layouts.
Hope this helps.
A good, fast fix I use on loose railjoiners is to crimp them to the base of the rail w/ a pair of dikes (wire nippers).
Thanks for the info!! This might be a little embarrasing for me, but I still have only 3 of those blue “Life-Like” power packs that come with the sets. I’m not that far into model railroading. But thanks for the tips as I will look into doing this.
Richard
No need to be embarassed! I have two LL packs myself, though my shelf is currently powered with an MRC 2500, a real gem of a power pack (no longer made)
When your ready and if you’re going to stay with DC (nothing wrong with that) I strongly suggest that you save up your money and invest in an MRC powerpack. You won’t regret it!
However, don’t get the MRC Railpower 1370—unless your layout is tiny. A friend of mine has one and, like your LL packs, it just doesn’t have that Hulk Hogan “oommph!” Just doesn’t crank out the juice for his 60 mph, 4-unit lashups.
Get a Tech 4 Series pack.
Tech 4 Model 220 delivers 16 Volts and provides the momentum feature.
Tech 4 Model 260 gives you 20 Volts (nasty!) and also has momentum.
Depending on how much track you have powered at one time one of these packs should give you plenty of muscle bound “ommph!”
Do you have your track separated into cab blocks? Or is your entire trackage powered at one time? With cab blocks you can run two trains separately. (Of course, this is where DCC has the advantage for being more efficient and simple.)
Roger that.[;)]