I just order a new steam engine: 2-8-0. As I just returned to RM, this will be my first engine purchase in 30 years! As I study the threads on the forums, I notice alot of you do some tweaking / adjustments / oiling / cleaning etc to new engines. Can you share what I should to a new out-of-the-box engine to prepare for quality running - versus just throwing on the tracks and running? For example - I read something about “running on blocks” to properly “seat” something.
Since I am new and mechanically challenged - details would be appreciated. There probably is a prior thread you can direct me too.
There are two ways of looking at this. First, some of us enjoy tinkering and solving mechanical “issues”. Some of us can’t overlook a problem, especially with a new or favourite locomotive. So, we take them apart and try to fix them.
On the other hand, you shouldn’t have to do it with a new locomotive. You pay good money, and the manufacturer offers the inducement of a warranty, so the implied statement is that we offer you a working product in good order and in good faith in exchange for your money. Accordingly, some of us feel that having to tinker with a brand new engine is not on.
There is a middle ground, too. Some makers of steam engines do not lubricate the valve gear and rods because they have received too many complaints about messy packaging and oily model trains. The instructions tell us to do our own lubrication. And, we do. However, your observation pertains to locomotives that may have their drivers out of quarter (faulty assembly in virtually every such case), bent and broken rods or pins, burrs and bits of stuff stuck in the cogs and gears, too much grease in the transimissions, and so on. This is, to me, a quality control problem. For some, as I have stated, it is merely a challenge.
The fact is that, at least for the Broadway Limited steamers that I have, they do take some breaking in, but that just means that I run them for a couple of days, a few minutes here and there, forwards and backwards and at varied speeds, and only then do I lubricate them. If you are as mechanically challenged as you imply, then you should consider being in the group that does not want to fiddle. If you’d like to learn to fiddle, then I am out of my depth because I don’t/won’t try to fix problems that I didn’t have to buy.
My first step with a new engine, unless it is a duplicate of another that has a known “issue”, is to throw (gently) it on the tracks and run it a little and look for issues. Without lube it will only “break-in” faster; these are not high load babbitt bearings here. Before very long, I will pull it off the rails to paint, tweak, clean, lube, or whatever, before putting it into regular service.
It is not uncommon to determine it needs some break-in, to disassemble to make sure it is clean and that the gears and other internals are lined up and okay and are well lubed, and then do a regimented break-in run; back, forward, different speeds both ways, for different periods of time, stopping to check smooth operation periodically along the way.
Everyone is different. I dare say there is no one “RIGHT” or wrong way.
I like articulateds to have the two engines about 180 degrees out of synch (don’t own a Triplex), so I will take them apart to address this issue, in fact I am not afraid to take apart about anything, and haven’t had to return anything in a shoebox yet. If someone in China made a mistake I can fix, I will, without returning it. If I can get one that way, I can probably get two. If I ever do get a set of drivers out of quarter, new out of the box, that puppy is going home to get replaced unless the manufacturer/distributor/whatever says they will send me new drivers when I call to check on returning.
Heres what I say. Most of my locomotives come pre-lubed, and if there is an issue, I.E. the drivers are out of quarter, I send them back telling whats wrong. If all seems fine, I break it in, AKA Run it forward at 10 SMPH, then backwards at 10 SMPH, increasing speed. Then it’s in regular service.
I like to do a “break-in” run, forward at about half to three-quarters speed for 15 min, then reverse for 15 min under DC. If that works OK, then I open the body (or tender in this case) to add the decoder, and add crew figures if needed, and weather the engine.
I personally carefully remove the loco from the box, visually inspect it to make sure there’s no broken parts or anything missing, I then run it at a moderate speed first one way and then the other for about thirty minutes. If it checks out okay, I carefully lightly oil all of the friction spots and put it to work hauling freight or passenger service.
I think the OP was talking about something some modellers do when they get a brand new loco (rather than “as new” engine which may already have had some run time). Running a loco for about 30 minutes in each direction at a moderate speed up on blocks or on a rolling road can help bed in new carbon brushes in the motor. Unless theres a major issue with low end speed when first put on the track I think that the gentle running in period, followed by a clean and LIGHT lube, described by the other posters here is just as good.
You didn’t mention the brand, but I am among the lazy. I take them out of the box and use them. I did put traction tires on a couple so I could pull my coal load up my grades, but following the dirrections, it was not too bad. I still have a couple that I am just running. 20 years from now my heirs may wish I had been more careful.
One thing no one mentioned is to get out that NMRA standards gage and check that all the drivers and wheels are in gage. I have not found too many problems with locomotives, but they do occur.