I use the CVP “Easy DCC” system. If you have a relatively smallish layout (i.e., not a full basement empire), it’s a good choice because it comes with two built-in DCC throttles. You can later add plug-in or wireless / radio control if you wish. I started with Digitrax in DCC, but found their wireless control to not be that hot, but have been very pleased with CVP.
Thanks, Tom.
Thanks. Will give it a look.
And Hi to you Tom!
Regards, Chris
Hello All,
Welcome to the forums and this great hobby.
Congratulations on choosing DCC over DC.
On a personal note, when I returned to this great hobby in 2014 my previous experience in DC shaped my decisions on motive power control.
When I “converted” to DCC I found that what I had spent on DC components; controllers (cabs), block wiring components and wire, I could have bought a DCC system.
I began my foray into DCC with the “dead-end” Bachmann Dynamis system.
Even with a 4’x8’ pike I quickly reached the limits of this system.
My pike is based on a coal branch loop utilizing the vintage Tyco 34-foot operating hoppers.
This operation requires a consist of four (4) GP-40s for the mainline coal drag, while a three (3) unit consist GP-30s pulls cars up a 3% grade to the unloading platform with “critters” shoving and pulling cars over the unloading platform.
These maneuvers require rearranging the motive power in these trains- -making and breaking consists.
Despite it’s limitations The Dynamis system is wireless and I grew to love this capability.
I “upgraded” to the NCE “Power Pro” 5 Amp wireless system.
This system provides the amperage necessary to power the consists along with the critters and switchers.
I chose the NCE system over other DCC systems because of the ease of how it makes and breaks consists, along with the ergonomics of the throttle.
Hope this helps.
Hey JJ. Great information.
I purchased a Bachmann DCC set - it was recommended on this forum as a good system for “seniors”. But I will use it as a DCC starting point.
Thanks for your input. It helps very much!
Thanks!
Anything that has “easy” in it, I’ll be prone to look at
Got my sub board - 7/16 OSB, much cheaper than 1/2" plywood.
Will screw fasten to the tables to stabilize everything and then choose a track plan that the 6’X12’ space can accommodate nicely.
Hardest part is to SLOW DOWN, think, and do the simple, but important little things first.
One thing I’d advise is not to skimp on the minimum radius of the curves. 18" radius curves are often what come in train sets, but are considered ‘sharp’ curves that large locomotives and long passenger or freight cars can’t really go around. With a 6’ wide layout, you can fit in a double-track mainline with 30" radius or so, and be able to run anything (and have it look good too).
Same with turnouts (switches), No. 5 or No.6 turnouts are going to work much better than the No.4 turnouts that would normally be used with 18" radius curved tracks.
I’d also suggest looking at using Kato Unitrack for your layout. It’s reliable, easy to use, and saves several steps over the now-traditional cork roadbed / flextrack / ballast method. It’s code 83 track is closer to real rail than most manufacturer’s rails too. It’s available at most hobby shops and online stores. Here’s a link to Kato’s website so you can see what they make:
HO Scale Unitrack – Kato USA Online Store
First of all there is no “dumb” putting yourself in a humble positions to ask questions only makes you better. DCC is a bit of a gauntlet or your best friend. Track geometry and layouts can be tricky. So keeping with the learning curve of KISS, do just that. Make an oval, program the loco, NCE power cab starter set, and go from there. Expand the system and layout as the natural progression of experience and intelligence take over. And one thing that sometimes you won’t hear from rivet counters, HAVE FUN !!! Or as Monty Python said…“Its only a model” cheers!
plan ahead, make/correct mistakes in your head
presumably not in that order.
now that you’ve gotten help with DCC, you might create a new thread discussing your track plan thoughts
Wow. Excellent inputs, Greg. I’ll definitely give this a look. Thank you.
Thanks.
I have seen the turn radius data in the layout plans and will definitely take aboard your recommendations. The turnout sizes are also in my thoughts now.
The more time I spend on this, the further away I seem to my end state, if there is such a thing. I laid out a simple 8x5 oval on my sub board, just to get the feel of basic things - like keeping track aligned, experiencing the train movements and seeing how different types of engines behave when pulling the train, Etc.
I have also spent a few dozen hours taking apart non-working engines picked up on E-bay and getting them to work. I never had or used a multimeter before starting this hobby. It’s been invaluable.
It’s interesting to see how various makers designed and put their products together.
A long way to go, but fun, frustrating at times, and always interesting.