I use the CVP “Easy DCC” system. If you have a relatively smallish layout (i.e., not a full basement empire), it’s a good choice because it comes with two built-in DCC throttles. You can later add plug-in or wireless / radio control if you wish. I started with Digitrax in DCC, but found their wireless control to not be that hot, but have been very pleased with CVP.
Thanks, Tom.
Thanks. Will give it a look.
And Hi to you Tom!
Regards, Chris
Hey JJ. Great information.
I purchased a Bachmann DCC set - it was recommended on this forum as a good system for “seniors”. But I will use it as a DCC starting point.
Thanks for your input. It helps very much!
Thanks!
Anything that has “easy” in it, I’ll be prone to look at 
Got my sub board - 7/16 OSB, much cheaper than 1/2" plywood.
Will screw fasten to the tables to stabilize everything and then choose a track plan that the 6’X12’ space can accommodate nicely.
Hardest part is to SLOW DOWN, think, and do the simple, but important little things first.
One thing I’d advise is not to skimp on the minimum radius of the curves. 18" radius curves are often what come in train sets, but are considered ‘sharp’ curves that large locomotives and long passenger or freight cars can’t really go around. With a 6’ wide layout, you can fit in a double-track mainline with 30" radius or so, and be able to run anything (and have it look good too).
Same with turnouts (switches), No. 5 or No.6 turnouts are going to work much better than the No.4 turnouts that would normally be used with 18" radius curved tracks.
I’d also suggest looking at using Kato Unitrack for your layout. It’s reliable, easy to use, and saves several steps over the now-traditional cork roadbed / flextrack / ballast method. It’s code 83 track is closer to real rail than most manufacturer’s rails too. It’s available at most hobby shops and online stores. Here’s a link to Kato’s website so you can see what they make:
HO Scale Unitrack – Kato USA Online Store
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First of all there is no “dumb” putting yourself in a humble positions to ask questions only makes you better. DCC is a bit of a gauntlet or your best friend. Track geometry and layouts can be tricky. So keeping with the learning curve of KISS, do just that. Make an oval, program the loco, NCE power cab starter set, and go from there. Expand the system and layout as the natural progression of experience and intelligence take over. And one thing that sometimes you won’t hear from rivet counters, HAVE FUN !!! Or as Monty Python said…“Its only a model” cheers!
plan ahead, make/correct mistakes in your head
presumably not in that order.
now that you’ve gotten help with DCC, you might create a new thread discussing your track plan thoughts
Wow. Excellent inputs, Greg. I’ll definitely give this a look. Thank you.
Thanks.
I have seen the turn radius data in the layout plans and will definitely take aboard your recommendations. The turnout sizes are also in my thoughts now.
The more time I spend on this, the further away I seem to my end state, if there is such a thing. I laid out a simple 8x5 oval on my sub board, just to get the feel of basic things - like keeping track aligned, experiencing the train movements and seeing how different types of engines behave when pulling the train, Etc.
I have also spent a few dozen hours taking apart non-working engines picked up on E-bay and getting them to work. I never had or used a multimeter before starting this hobby. It’s been invaluable.
It’s interesting to see how various makers designed and put their products together.
A long way to go, but fun, frustrating at times, and always interesting.
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Hello All,
I’m not sure who gave you this advice regarding the Bachman Dynamis DCC system, but you were misinformed that it is a “good system” for anyone- -relative to other DCC systems.
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Digitrax offers 2 starter systems. Both are 5A and wireless.
the more expensive set uses DT602D duplex controllers. Duplex means transmission in both directions. I’m not sure what the advantages of their duplex wireless system are except that the radios and controllers are designed to operate at a higher power and farther distance.
While Digitrax throttles technically come Infrared-ready, it requires the purchase of a UR90 module. Further, it only works as line-of-sight. Just about anyone will tell you that the Digitrax infrared capability is not worth the trouble. Practically speaking, their Duplex radio system is the only “true” wireless that Digitrax offers. Thus, a Digitrax bundle, throttle, etc. must be a Duplex (suffix “D”).
In the link you gave, the Evolution Express “Duplex” is the only true wireless starter set, where the DT602D throttle is Duplex radio equipped and the set includes the UR93, which is Digitrax’s Duplex receiver module. It includes everything needed for a truly rigorous and long-distance wireless operation from out of the box.
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That’s the one I purchased, though don’t have a set up yet…
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Or both.
You have the aptitude and attitude to make it work, I’m sure you’ll be successful and find it satisfying.