Hello all, I’m about to jump into the building of my first layout and wanted to be sure I was not going to make some huge mistakes.
I have a 16 x 12 area that I want to build an N gauge layout in. I have been reading and planning now for about 2 months and feel I’m about ready to pull the trigger. It will be a walk-in style layour which I will build in phases over time.
I live in the Cincinnati OH area so I am going to focus on this area. My focus will be industrial yards and the switching that is required to support large industries like P&G, Champion Paper, Newport Steel to name a few. From my research I’m thinking circa 1980’s. This way I can model lines like Indiana Ohio RR, Central Ohio Systems and Midwest Systems plus some of the big ones.
I have two issues right now, what type of track to buy and should I go DCC. I was thinking Atlas code 55 with No. 5 turnouts in the yards. I know I will never run more than two trains at one time and that won’t happen that much nor will I have a group of people over to run the layout. So do I need DCC?
I am really surprised to find that I have to buy most of my stuff online. In a city this size I would have thought there would be several stores I could walk into get advice and purchase what I needed. How things have changed.
I would go DCC from the start. 16 x12 is a decent size N gauge area to work with and as you get the bug your fleet will grow. I find I set a decent size train running on the mainline (HO scale) and then do local jobs with my switchers. Much easier to do with DCC.
ERIC97123 WROTE THE FOLLOWING POST AT WED, OCT 31 2012 6:35 AM:
I would go DCC from the start. 16 x12 is a decent size N gauge area to work with and as you get the bug your fleet will grow. I find I set a decent size train running on the mainline (HO scale) and then do local jobs with my switchers. Much easier to do with DCC.
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Agreed. Go DCC. Easy multi-unit operation and far simpler track wiring are both compelling reasons to make the leap.
None of the choices you mention are “huge mistakes”, no matter which way you choose. Virtually all choices in model railroading can be reversed at almost any time, many with little loss of time or money.
The track choice can be changed at any time simply by changing track for parts of or the rest of the layout. Many fine layouts have been built with Atlas track, but there are other choice, too. Mating different makes of track is a little more difficult than keeping on with the same type of track, but it’s not that difficult. Since I’m not that familiar with various makes of N track, I’ll leave the specific pros and cons to others.
If you choose to start with DC, it is not difficult to change to DCC at a later date. It is not the size of the layout, but the characteristics of the operations that should influence your DC/DCC decision. The single operator, with occasional 2nd train lends itself to either solution. Some of the pros and cons:
Good DC hand-held throttles (for walk-around control) are not generally available in the hobby shop. The MRC Tech 6 and Control Master 20 are about the only exceptions that are found in shops. Other DC throttles are either ordered direct from manufacturer, or you can build your own from on-line circuits.
In DCC, the actual “throttle” is in the decoder inside the locomotive. Due to heat dissipation
If you think that model railroading will be a dedicated hobby, I ,also, would go DCC from the start. As far as track is concerned, I would suggest that you go with flex-track. It allows you to set your own curves and can be cut at any point, with a track nipper. Stick with the same size and brand of track. I just lost the local hobby shop that I have patronized for years. One can get good service from Walthers. Get their Catalog, and you can get anything that the wallet will allow. As to scenery, it is a good idea an any to plan and cut rivers, ponds, or harbors, before you start laying track. Are you planning to use insulation foam for your roadbed? I just used the plywood top, that I cut in an undulating pattern. If your layout is to be an island, I would considered using a divider down the center of your layout? This hides the return loops and doubles the amount of background scenery that one can glue onto the divider background. MY HO layout is an around the 24’x34’ room, so the SceniKing background makes a continuous panorama scene glued to the outer walls. It is a good idea to paint the area above the paper background , a blue electronically matching that of the average blue of the paper scene blue background. Bob Hahn
Thanks for all for the infomation. I believe I will go DCC but read that N gauge locos can be a lot harded to get DCC in. I would like sound but can do without, not a deal breaker.
I plan to do the hollow core door with 2 inch of foam, then a cork roadbed. I also saw some flex-foam products by Woodland I believe, which looked interesting.
The layout will become a walk-in over time as I add modules. Right now I do plan to use a combination of dividers and background scenery. To start I am going to use a divider to hide the staging area and go from there. My first module will be a sub-divison or smaller classification yard and staging area.
So is flex-track a brand name or a type of bendable track? So if I use flex-track I don’t have to worry about straight pieces or curve pieces? All I need is some flex-track and #5 turnouts more or less.
DON1942 WROTE THE FOLLOWING POST AT WED, OCT 31 2012 11:35 AM:
So is flex-track a brand name or a type of bendable track? So if I use flex-track I don’t have to worry about straight pieces or curve pieces? All I need is some flex-track and #5 turnouts more or less.
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Flex track is a type of track; a few different manufacturers have their version of it (Atlas, Peco, Walthers). Head to the LHS when you can and play with a few different brands. Not all are created equal, and everyone seems to prefer a different brand (I’m a Walthers-Shinohara boy personally).
People mix and match flex track and sectional to various degrees depending on preference. Just remember if you’re laying flextrack on curves, solder the joint BEFORE fixing the track to the roadbed. That way you eliminate any kinks at the joint, which can be a major headache.
I’m in HO scale, and have the following to offer on flex-track.
It’s my experience that the Atlas and Peco brands are the most “flexible” and springy. They bend easily and smoothly into nice curves. As noted above, soldering the joints in the curves will prevent the otherwise-inevitable kinks. Walthers/Shinohara is somewhat less flexible, a bit more rigid. Micro Engineering is very rigid, and takes some care to flex into shape. Once bent into shape, it will hold that shape. I would still solder joints on curves.
As to which is best? Well, that’s more of a personal preference thing. Some people like the stiffness of M-E (Micro Engineering) track, or the look. Others like the “springiness” of the Atlas/Peco. And some like the “happy medium” of Walthers/Shinohara.
Mind you, these observations are with HO track, but I expect N scale would be the same.