Newbie: Need Help with which track to buy

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I have not been in the hobby since I was about 15 (I am 26 now) and I need some help on track. I unboxed my old RR stuff and found my life-like track. When I went online to look for more I found that there is now power-loc in addition to what I have and been use to. Which track should I invest in? Power-loc or the regular stuff that I used when I was 15? Please help. Thanks in advance.

dave

2

If you want track with the roadbed already on, the power-loc. If you want to build your own roadbed and have nice looking track, I’d recommend flex-track. It’s a bit more work, but worth it in the long run. I use Bachmann’s nickel silver EZ track myself. Because of my medical conditions, I try to limit my use of sharp tools. If I get a cut, I might not know it for hours. I use to use flex track all the time. The nickel silver is best. I recommend code 100 rail. Many modelers use code 83. It works well and looks real good but is not as forgiving as code 100. Plus if you have locos or rolling stock with large wheel flanges, they will hit the spikes on code 83. An undesirable situation.

3

Welcome to the forum. I’m a fan of Atlas code 83 flex, but there are others. If the layout is temporary, just setting us some track to run trains, The Bachman seems to be pretty good. I have use Atlas sectional, and that can be a pain. Unless you are just setting up track on a piece of plywood for a while, you may find that all new track will be best in the long run.

4

Thanks to the both of you for your responces. I have one more question…It is ok to mix track? Like use Life-like and maybe another maker? Thanks in advance.

dave

5

You can transition from one to the other but not mix it up . Even changing the profile of one type of track even in the same code, there could be height and railhead width differences. These can be overcome in modifying the rail joiner or shimming to level.
Bob K.

6

The short answer is the regular stuff.

The long answer is that the track with the built on roadbed, like the power-loc, ties you to a single vendor. There is also not as wide selection of track pieces for the pre-fab.

With the regular track there are many vendors , a very wide range of different pieces, and interoperability with flex track. Atlas is probably the most common type. You will also find it now comes in two sizes. The track you have is code 100, and you can now get code 83. Code 83 has smaller rail that looks better.

The one other note I might make is that the old track might be steel or brass. I believe you will have a hard time finding brass track today. The default is now what is called nickel-sliver, mostly because it is easier to keep clean. Steel is just bad news on all counts. It doesn’t conduct electricity well and it rusts.

7

In a recent thread in the general discussion forum someone has pointed out that the cost of track is one of the smaller investments you will make… provided you do it once and do it right.
personally i would junk ny old stuff and invest in good new modern flex track and switches. Walethers, micro engineering and Peco are all good. I haven’t tried others (haven’t needed to). ME is really good.

8

I agree with David’s comment. I’m also a newbie, so having older locos/rolling stock with larger flanged wheels that JW spoke about isn’t a concern, so I plan on doing Code 83 (Atlas, Walther’s-Shinohara, Peco–take your pick)–that height ratio is more prototypical–variety and availablity may pu***owards one or the other manufacturer (e.g., frequent backorder/unavailability with Walther’s). I do think flex track is the way to go for flexibility in different yard/curve situations. Only other comment I would add to David’s is that on other threads on this subject, some have said that the Micro Engineering flex-track can be a little difficult to bend, which may be an issue if you’re doing sharp curves.

Jim

9

I have to comment on Jim’s answer about curving Micro-Engineering flex track. This is a common opinion which is based on some facts, but leads to inaccurate conclusions.

Flex track varies in “springiness” by manufacturer. Atlas flex track is the most “springy”, Micro Engineering is the least. The other manufacturers are in between, with Peco and Walters being more like ME than Atlas. The difference in springiness affects how one lays track.

Atlas:

  • curve easements are a natural outgrowth of springiness
  • easy to get smooth large radius curves, although radius is not necessarily consistent.
  • much easier to straighten for re-use
  • difficult to get small radius curves (18" or less in HO, 11" or less in N) to be a consistent radius. Inconsistency of small radius curves will affect ability to run larger engines and cars.
  • need to solder joints before curving to avoid kinks on curves
  • curves must be held in place (pins or nails) while glue or caulk sets
    Can generally (except for small radius curves) lay smooth track simply by pinning track to centerline mark by eye. As mentioned, joints on curves must be soldered before bending the track.

Micro Engineering

  • difficult to get smooth curve without using rigid form to bend track against (I use cut plywood curves as a form.). Radius gauges such as Ribbonrail are another way to get smooth and consistent curves.
  • need a straight form to straighten track for re-use.
  • if track is properly curved to very end, no need to solder joints. If you have difficulty curving the very ends, cut the last inch or so off.
  • track holds curve once bent, which actually helps in forming consistent small radius curves. Bend track around form at workbench, then transfer to layout.

Micro Engineering flex track is one of the best detailed, and one of the most expensive.

my thoughts, your choices
Fred W