Gents,
I am in the layout room-finishing stage…and am pricing ceiling tiles for the new drop ceiling over the layout. I would like to use no-dust ceiling tiles, but the only PVC tiles I can find are at www.pvcceilingtiles.com and they are $14 each…yikes.
What do you guys use for ceiling tiles, and where did you get them? Particularly non dusting varieties (no mineral/cardboard tiles).
Andy
I am using conventional 2 x 2’ cardboard drop ceiling tiles in my layout room, only because they can be cut to drop below the framework and give the ceiling a better finished look. For home resale purposes, the cardboard tiles look significantly better. However, at work we are using fiberglass/PVC tiles because they are washable and you don’t have to worry if you have a roof or ceiling pipe leak. We used a local lumber company or ceiling tile distributor for purchasing these items.
I have a painted cement floor in my layout room and found that a sealed floor makes a significant difference in the amount of accumulated dust.
Larry
Go with the Armstrong tiles, less than half the price. For best dust control, you’ll want the ones with a thin layer of pebbled plastic over about a 1/4 inch of fiberglass.
Two words. Brushed stainless steel. Your ceiling will look like a Delorean[:)][:)][:)]
I won’t use fiberglass because I have to cut/trim a significant number of tiles…and I won’t cut fiberglass. No mesothelioma for me!
Once you’ve installed the tiles, you won’t be getting much dust from them - they just sit there. [swg]
Wayne
You’ve got to stop watching those lawyer commercials on TV. First, Mesothelioma is caused by asbestos exposure, not fiberglass. Second, spend another $2 to $3 for a dust mask to prevent inhalling cut fibers in the air, which you’ll have from cutting ANY ceiling tile.
Another suggestion to control the dust is to not do the cutting in the layout room, unless you’ve not yet started the layout. Cutting the pressed paper ones makes lots of dust, as does cutting the fibreglass ones, so use of a dust mask is common sense. Do the cutting outdoors (wearing a dust mask), and use a cheap paint brush to brush the dust off the tiles before bringing them indoors. Once installed, they not only don’t make more dust, they stop the dust that normally filters down from the floors above from falling on your layout. My layout has been in place for over 15 years (all room prep was done beforehand) and I have only cleaned track once: after ballasting. [;)]
Wayne
Ditto on that one!
Have you thought about using some kind of clear sealer on the cheaper tiles? [?]
The Armstrong fiber acoustic tiles are the easiest to cut and install. I don’t know what some are doing for cutting to create a mess. After installing thousands of sq ft of these, I find that I will only have some crumbs and dust @ the work table where the tiles are cut. Using a straightedge and sharp utility knife, a couple of passes and snap to tile. Aluminum framing square, DW T square or material can mark the new tile so use care or another material for cutting. Always remember to slightly undersize your measurement 3/16 to 1/4" and the tile will drop in. Proper sizing eliminates the crumbs during actual installation. Now if you pick the 2x2 recessed tile, you also need to cut the rabbit to match the existing. These are very good looking tiles but the extra effort may not be nec for our needs.
As already noted, most of the dust is from untreated concrete and the dust that will filter down through the overhead flooring and joists. Removal of any tiles that have been installed for any lenthy period will show just how much dust settles on the tops from traffic above.
A note as to installation of the grid, There are light duty and heavier commercial grid for the mains and 2 and 4’ cross tees. Not sure if all home centers and suppliers carry both, be careful not to mix, they won’t work well. Try to install the main grids the shorter distance of the room to simplify the job. Special elevation changes @ soffit and windows can be done w/ fitting and creativity. White aluminum rivits do wonders to hold these critical areas. Any full fixture fluorecents should sit on main grids and support wire at the corners. Some local codes will require that the fixtures have safety chain or hangers as well. Do yorself a favor also, try to keep the support wires at or close to the cross tees. This eliminates tile damage and the edge dust/ crumbs during installation or removal.