How would you go about applying decals to a model? Would you seal the model first and then apply the decal?
As most of my fleet are wood sided this description assumes such. But I do apply a base coat ( gloss clear ) before adding the decals. After drying I cut them along the wood with a NEW #5 blade. I them apply a combination of Microsol and Microset and allow to dry again. Then a nice dull coat to get rid of the gloss. Weather with acrylics and I’m all set. It normally takes me a week to get one car done ( I may do anywhere from 5 - 10 at a time though )!
Usually, there’s 2 ways to do it. One, Seal the car in Dullcote (dry), then cut your decal, soak it in water for about 20 seconds. while it’s soaking, brush Microsol over the area where you want the decal. then when the decal is wet enough to slide off the paper, pull a little corner of to the side and place it where you want the decal. Hold down the nd of the decal on the model, then pull the backing off and let the decal slide on the model. If it doesn’t set flat on a rough model, brush the Micro Set on over it. Then reseal the car.
Alternatively, you can not seal the car the first time, and leave out the MIcro stuff. I haven’t found much difference between the two methods.
Most of the references to decal application that I’ve seen suggest that the model should have a glossy surface prior to decal application. I’ve used Glosscote as well as the Floquil equivalent. After the decals are applied, then the dullcote is applied.
Hmm. I was told it wouldn’t make any difference, but I’ll try it again with Gloss. I don’t recal that making any difference either though.
The smoother the surface, the more likely it will be that you will get a good decal application. I think the gloss products leave a smoother finish, but that’s my opinion. I think the other thing that affects the selection of the initial finish is the fact that the surface of the decal is glossy, so if you apply the Dulcote first you’ll be applying something “shiny” over a dull surface, and then trying to to dull the whole thing down when you’re done.
Anyhow, I’ve been reading how to apply decal articles for over 40 years and I’ve never read anywhere where they’ve recommended applying the dull finish first. But then I suppose it’s never too late to learn.
When I apply decals I use a gloss/smooth finish. Champ decals go over Floquil Flat Finish which is actually a semi gloss very well. Then finish up with Testors Dullcote.
Microscale decals go over Floquil Crystal Coat then finish up with Testors Dullcote.
Scalecoat2 paint dries glossy so no finish is needed. Finish up with Testors Dullcote.
Testors Dull/Glosscote thin with Scalecoat2 thinner
Always use a setting solution to get the decals firmly attached to the surface then wash the setting solution residue off before adding the finish coat.
Thre might not be a benefit. But when I asked if I needed to blow another 5 bucks (on a non-existant teen budget and more importantly, not near the bank) or stick with the DUllcote I still had, I was told it would be fine.
99.99% of modelers will advise you to put down a gloss coat before decals instead of a flat finish (Dullcote). Flashwave may have good luck with a flat finish but the vast majority of modelers and the decal manufacturers suggest gloss first.
I have been using Future acrylic floor finish. High gloss, very thin, brushable, sprayable, thins with water and waaaaay cheaper than model paints.
That’s the thing, I haven’t had good luck wih either
Nope, wrong. This technique will result in a poor application.
Decals adhere much better to glossy surfaces, so using a glossy paint or spraying the surface with Glosscote is important in decal application.
Once the decal is set and dry, then you might go back over it with Dullcote.
Then you maybe shouldn’t be giving advice on the subject, hmmm?
Like is there Testors gloss coat? or is there a better brand? Ok here is what i need for the decal process… 1.) Decals 2.)Microsol 3.)gloss coat 4.)dullcoat So I soak the decal in water then apply it to model, brush microsol onto model, apply decal. But i’ve tried peeling paper from a walthers decal when it was wet, not a good result. what is the correct process?
Soak decal in water, then let it sit for a minute out of the water. When it is ready, it’ll slide off the backing. Do this carefully, using a small, pointed paintbrush or (less good, but workable) tweezers. If it isn’t ready to slide, re-wet it and let it sit some more.Then try again.
Testors makes Dullcote and Glosscote. There are other brands, but these work well.
TNX–I just tried that and the dang thing slid off the first go. And the trick with gloss works FAR better than the dullcoat----
A Walthers decal? Are you decalling a car or something else? Anyway, the process is the same. It works better if the surface the decal is being applied to is glossy.
You should not be “peeling” the paper from the decal. It sounds like you are either not wetting the decal long enough prior to trying to remove. You should dip the decal in water until it is soaked, but not so long that it floats off the paper into your bowl of water. I can’t give you a specific time, as it varies with the decal and peoples opinion. But when you dip the decal, you’ll see the decal background change tone. When that happens, then the decal (with its backing paper) gets removed and set on a piece of paper towel. Let it sit there and soak a little longer. You can then use a toothpick or a small paint brush to gently test the decal to see if it slides on the paper backing. Once you see that it slides freely, then pick up the entire piece and put it on the model in close proximity to its final location with tweezers. Then slide the decal off the paper into its final position. If the decal is on the model but not quite in position, and it won’t move easily, use you paint brush to add a drop of water to the edge of the decal. This will get under the decal and allow it to slide easier.
I also recommend that you use distilled water to soak your decals. I think it’s about a dollar a gallon at the grocery store. Most tap water has things in it that can leave deposits under the decal that no amount of setting solution will remove.
I’ve not listed all the things you need to do for a successful decal job, primarily because I don’t know them all. Plus different people have different ways of doing things. I will say that decalling is one modelling activity that does take practice to do properly.
As other have said:
-
Gloss coat
-
Wet the decal after cutting to size. (As said above, only use distilled water!)
From here on this is the method I use. Works well for me…
-
I have had good luck sliding the decal off onto the model by holding the decal lightly with a fine set of tweezers and then using a #11 exacto blade to slide the decal in place. Comercial decals often are not done as a solid sheet and you can hold the paper where there is no decal.
-
Position the decal exactly where you want it and let it set for about a minute.
-
After decal has started to set add the Microsol.
-
After decal is completely dry (like the next day…) spray the model with Dullcote as a final finish. Then add weathering as desired.
Alright, i understand what to do now, but when remving the backing, you soak it and it should slide off the decals, and you carefully remove it with tweezers, and apply it to the model? BTW the model i am decaling is a custom built Conrail N11 transfer caboose, and the walthers decal was when i was decaling or tried to decal a building…
Ah, no, at least I don’t. I hold the paper with the decals and slide the decal off the paper directly onto the model. One thing that decals try to do is immediately curl over and stick to itself. Slide the decal from the paper into its place on the model. It will work much better.
Right. Don’t try to hold the decal in the air after it is free of the backing or it will become a mess.