O gauge R/C conversion (photos & description)

Classic Toy Trains Forum
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Yesterday, I successfully converted my first locomotive to a new type of “command control” system used by millions of Americans, but almost nonexistant among toy train operators: remote control or R/C, not command control like DCS, TMCC or DCC which depends on rails for power or signal but R/C like that used for model boats, airplanes and racing cars everywhere.

I will show some photos and diagrams, try to explain the process in simple English, and give what I think are the pros and cons of doing this procedure. First, I want to make it clear that I’m an electronic klutz, so if I can do the
conversion, anyone can. Without the help of Austin, Texas resident Jim Duda, none of this would have been possible. We spent time emailing and on the phone, as he walked me through the procedures step by step. Thanks, Jim.

Now for the pros and cons. Keep in mind that I made the conversion less than a day ago so the information I’m providing will be incomplete, as there are many more tests to run and it is likely I will be experimenting with new types of R/C gear in the future, so I plan to use this thread to give updates (which might occasionally be few and far between, as I’m also building my outdoor layout simultaneously).

Here are some factors to consider when deciding if R/C is right for U:

If you have a layout already wired and are happy, this procedure is probably not for you; especially if you already are using some type of command and control system.

R/C conversion isn’t free, but neither is it expensive. The 3 main components: 1. onboard battery pak with charger; 2. transmitter/receiver; and 3. electronic speed controller or ESC; cost, all together, about $100. It is possible with just this gear alone, to power all of your trains, including even the Beep and Plymouth Switcher and 0-4-0, if a trailing battery car is used (converted boxcar, gondola, etc).

TIme of installation is also a factor. Once U know how to do the procedure, howeve

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Very cool Dave. I like the range factor, that you can control from just about anywhere. What about the elements. Can you run in the rain? I was playing with my G gauge outside yesterday in the cold. Cleaning the track was a real pain. And now with the track being outside for 6-7 years the railjoiners are my main problem. I like what you are doing. Could be the “new wave” in O gauge.

My son and I yesterday - sunny but COLD.

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Dave, nice job. If I sent you an engine, could you wire it like that for me?

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Bravo Big Dave!

Here’s what I’m curious about:

  1. Is it fast enough with the 7.2 Volt battery pack?
  2. How is the slowest speed performance?
  3. Is it a smooth transition from “Off” (neutral) to the first speed increment in forward and reverse?

Paul - if he can seal the locomotive against water and the car that houses the receiver, he could run in the rain…water / snow / bird chit, etc. on the tracks is a non-issue as in full size trains.

Powering up the headlight might be as simple as wiring it to the motor…you could also dedicate a small battery pack through a switch which would give you constant brightness and wouldn’t be affected if the loco was running or not.

Lashups could be as simple as bringing the motor leads out to a connector outside the shell and simply connecting the locos together. The speed controller is capable of handling 30 amps @ 7.2 VDC continuous and that is LOTS of can motors…whether the wheels turn at the same speed in all your locos would be the only concern.

Thanks for being brave enough to try this…it’ll be an interesting thread to follow!

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Thanks, Paul,

In a misty rain it could be done (drizzle), but not rain, rain, same same for G scale stuff.

Thanks for compliment. The R/C stuff is so inexpensive because of the nature of the mass production that takes place as millions of folks run their stuff, so why not trains!

TMCC,

Thanks. I’ll be up visiting my sisters in the York, Lancaster area around 8 April. I may be able to swing your way. Email me and I can wire it for you b/c you should be able to get all the components by then. You also need 8 AA batteries for the transmitter. I recommend rechargeables. We can discuss in great length.

Jim,

  1. No. I would like to try the 14 V battery pak. The locomotive can haul a line of cars, but when it gets on the (admittedly) curvy test track, it tends to peter out (but keeps going, just gets ornary. My outside track, unlike the 042 test track, has 12 foot diameter curves!

In other words, more juice would be better. I may trade this 7.2V pak back in at Radio Shack for a larger voltage pak. Also, I’d like to buy better wire connectors that don’t take any effort to disconnect.

  1. Slowest speed is about 5 smph, about the same as U get if you wire in series. That is completely satisfactory. Interestingly, the max speed in forward is about twice that of reverse. I can’t account for that.

  2. The transition is really smooth! As for sounds, there is the neat whine of the motors that almost sounds like dynamics kicking in in the 1:1

I’m sure I’ll have much more info as time passes, but just 1 day has passed!

Thanks, Jim, we’ll be in touch, I’m sure.

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Oh, one more thing… someone asks, why not just use G?

There are 2 major reasons I chose O over G for outdoors.

  1. Already have the trains

  2. I can get more train per square foot (larger empire). O is plenty big for me!

Also, someone else asked me about the components. Here in brief:

  1. Receiver/x-mitter- Ranger II N 2Ch am radio control system, made by HiTec

  2. ESC is ProBoat waterproof ESC w/Reverse: by Riptide

  3. power is Radio Shacks’s R/C pack 7.2V power index 2000, 2000 mAh, Ni-Cd rechargeable battery pak, model 23-330.

#1 and 2 don’t have website for b/c it’s at work. Bought both from 2 separate sources.

Additionally, there’s the 10 Amp fast blow fuse and holder from the metal drawers at radio shack. They also have wire connectors but I’m replacing those with something easier to connect and disconnect.

#1, #2, and #3 all fit nicely together.

Additionally, 8 batteries are needed (AA) to power the transmitter.

In the 3rd to the last photo, all of those components came with the x-mitter/receiver bundle. NONE of these are needed. I just showed them so you would know U don’t need them. However, I did use them to test the transmitter/receiver to ensure it was functioning properly.

Instead, the ESC is connected with a 3-connector device into the throttle (channel 2) of the receiver. It is CRITICAL to get the proper orientation of wires. Fortunately, the receiver allows the ESC connector to only fit one way. Don’t force it in the other way!

I’d be glad to answer further questions.

BTW, the 7.2V is adequate but I’m going to go up to 14 volts to get more power to the 2 loco motors.

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Dave -

Great work! You’ve certainly opened up a new avenue of train control for O gauge, whather indoors or outdoors.

I just don’t know if I could give up the third rail to go with that unrealistic two rail track!

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The Proboat Riptide ESC is the reason you have more speed forward than reverse since most R/C cars/trucks/boats favor more forward speed than reverse. 14.4 volts will be the maximum your ESC can handle…if you need more voltage the price of the ESC will increase.

You can just get another battery pack and connect them in series…but you’ll have to charge them singly as you do now.

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This is a dream-come-true. Well done, Dave. I’m going to print this out to show to the boys at the R/C hobby shop who told me this couldn’t be done.

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Thanks for the tip, Jim.

Doug,

Thanks, hopefully someone might be able to use this information. Just gives you more options with your toy trains and opens doors.

Dr. John,

I know whatchya mean. The tracks sort of look naked. And, one of my favorite effects were the blue sparks shooting off the rails, esp. at night. It’s a compromise, for sure! I’ll keep my 3 rails track at work tho. Need to keep the DCS for something!

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I forgot about the Receiver battery pack you’re not using - it will be perfect for your lights! It even has a switch to turn your lights On - Off. Try it with the bulbs already installed - it may be bright enough as is…if not, get some 6 volt rated bulbs since you have 4.8 volts available.

Remember to isolate your bulbs from the rest of the circuit to prevent damage to the Williams boards…

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Jim, thanks for the additonal info.

Forgot to mention but as I was fixing myself a drink and fetching a bone for the hound, the battery pak and speed controller flew off the flat car (use a gondola!).

Well, the trooper SD-45 was pulling it along, dragging it over the Berber carpet. What a soldier!

( Who says model railroading is boring. I could make this a full-time hobby! Too bad I have to work to support my hobby!)

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HA! You can put a new twist to the old “Helicopter Car”…have one of your R/C buddies that flies those mini electric helos mount his bird on one of your flats. He’ll control it with his own transmitter so he can take off an land on your flat…betcha’ that would turn some heads!!!

The possibilities, as they say, are endless…

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Dave : a great accomplishment there !! With a few investors, you may become the President of a very large Corporation ! This could revolutinize the hobby !!
Looks like a really lot of fun ! I’ve flown a few of R/C helis, but landing on a moving flat car is probably beyond my capabilities !! [:D][:D] Now take offs would be ok ! A good idea by Mr. Duda, I might say !! [:D] How about the Missle
& Exploding boxcar ? ! You could blow up a boxcar sitting in a siding somewhere ! The kids would really like that, too !
Thanks,

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Now this is amazing. The applications of R/C is endless.

Dave, give yourself an atta boy for taking the time to post all this information for the rest of us to enjoy and learn from.

I recently was looking over some feedback on E-Bay and one had really caught my attention. It was from a seller who posted feedback that went something like this, “Model train people are the nicest people around”

Not sure if I could find it again but thought it was so relevant to what I have seen here in the forum from so many people.

I too will be keeping an eye on this post.

Thanks Dave,
Lyle R Ehlers

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Dave, a good idea for us to meet would probably be at the East Coast Hobby Show, in Ft. Washington, right near my house. I am checking the dates right now, because I might be there with the Garden RR club.

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Dave,

Nice accomplishment! Certainly opens a few doors for variety!

Keep it up!
Roy

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Good news Dave,
I will be there. It is from April 7th to April 9th. Directions to come. I will try to remember to give them to you.

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OK, TMCC, I’ll be there. I’m still experimenting with perhaps some slightly higher voltage lock-nut connectors etc, and when I get the optimal parts list together, I’ll email you and you can purchase them and have them ready. The only soldering I did, btw, was on the fuse. The rest are connectors. The only tools I used were tiny screwdrivers to remove the shell of the loco and the rollers. The black wire connecting the bottom of the motors appears to be some sort of a ground. It is connected with a nut to a metal ring. I used a tiny wrachet set to remove the nut, but had to hold the other side with needle-nose pliers. I could bring along my tools. Oh, and wire strippers and crimper if going that route.

Never been to a garden meet so REALLY looking forward. Was actually working on the garden and doing new roadbed today as the weather warmed up.

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Another way this could be done is to run constant voltage to the track, then run the power through the RC system (as long as it is DC) then to the engines motor/motors.