O gauge switches

I’ve always run either 027 or 0 track (dabbled with fastrack) and my current layout is O. I’m going to make some changes to the layout that’ll require 4 additional switches. I’m currently running 7 postwar 022 switches and 1 new O22 switch. Is there a less fussy 031 switch out there that will mate up with Lionel O gauge track and run at a fixed voltage? I like the O22s, but new ones are too expensive, and it seems after cleaning/rehabing the PW versions, they’re just never totally reliable.

There’s another thread on 022’s and I made the same point. If they’re not damaged and you get them tuned/cleaned properly, you should not be having a problem. They are a bit rough with steamers travelling through them, but they are very reliable even after 50 years.

Mike S.

My experience with the new 022’s is they have sloppier tolerances and the plastic body castings are not as rugged as the bakelite castings of the postwar models. If in good condition, the postwar 022 have been very reliable for me. After buying used postwar 022’s in good operating condition, I take them apart and polish the contact strips with a track cleaning eraser and 90% isporyl alcohol. I also check the soldered joints for the control rails and resolder if they are weak.

The best way to use the post war 022 switches is to run an auxillary power wire to them with at least 18 volts from a transformer as they can take the higher voltage and snap quicker at 18 volts or above. Another thing to look out for on pw 022 switches is the solenoid may freeze in place, if that happens just oil it on both ends and use a small flat tip screwdriver to move the plunger a couple of times until loose and use 20 volts to throw it a couple of times and it works good after that.

The newer(1991 & up) Lionel switches in O gauge switches have many problems and electrical seem to be the first to show up on a permanant yera round layout. Even going by what the instruction sheet tells you won’t stop any electrical problems!!

On the 6-23010 & 23011 is there any way to swap out the electrical system and install a DZ1000 switch machine? I like the design of these switches but the electrical is horrible in them.

Lee F.

I have 4 new Lionel remote switches, and so far they’ve been great, no problems at all, Im not sure of the model number, the boxes are put away and Im too lazy to dig them out. They are pricey though, I paid $72.00 apiece for them, but like I said so far they’ve worked perfect.

Paul

I am running 12 Postwar 022 switches with my high volt Z transformer. They are hooked to the posts using the fixed voltage plugs. They switch just fine in a heart beat. That extra voltage makes them switch with ease. Just crank that knob on your Z to full blast and the controllers with light up and the switches too will light up and switch very well. Good $40 investment in that Z. Pick one up at a train show, they are nice. They work well with my standard trains as well…The only problem i have ever had with my 022 switches is that heat up. The middle rails on the switches heat up. I had this problem with one switch yesterday, so i opened it up and the on bottom the contact strip was touching the bottom plate of the switch, so i put some black electrical tape on top on those contacts and now it does not buzz like there is a short and does not heat up no more. I think that contact was bent up and touching the plate on the bottom. Tape is a life saver. thanks.

it’s funny it seems every PW 022 switch I buy says “good condition” or “just pulled off layout” and when I hook it up to 18v they barely throw, and never go lock to lock. So I rip them apart, polish the contacts, clean the solenoid and they throw hard lock to lock. After about a couple days of sitting on the layout, they become a bit sluggish, some more then others. Some even after extensive tear down and cleaning never snap lock to lock. I know the 022 has die-hard fans here, so we’ll agree to disagree on their effectiveness. In my opinion nothing beats the Marx 027 switches with the un-scale looking arcing center rail. Those things are full throttle stone reliable. I have a 2-1/2 yr old son that’s getting the hang of working the switches, and it’s extra hard to tell him to work the switches back and forth a couple times to make sure they lock. I guess that’s not my question though. Does anybody know of a reliable, affordable 0-31 switch that’ll mate up to tubular track without much modification? MTH scaletrax looks promising, but I haven’t seen any reports, and I don’t have anywhere to go where I can actually handle them to check them out firsthand. Thanks,
Eric

Eric,

Have you thought about using GarGraves switches? All you need is adapter pins to go to 027 or O gauge tubular. That is what I did a few years ago when the newer Lionel O gauge switches crapped out on me.

Lee F.

Eric,

I’ve had much the same experience you’ve had with PW O22s. I have one set which works well, and several others which take at least 18 volts to even throw at all.

This past Saturday, I picked up one of the O31 switches which Lione came out with in about '95. They’ve received a lot of criticism here and on OGR, however mine has been completely reliable so far. These really are a fine design, with removable straight and curve sections that allow them to duplicate the footprint of an O22, or be much smaller. The one I have fires reliably at 12 volts, which I’ve never been able to get an O22 to do. Trains also seem to run through it a good bit more smoothly than they do through O22s.

Another option out there is the K-line Supersnap O31 switches. They were marketed for K-lines Supersnap track, however they will mate up with regular O gauge if you just put in track pins and snap off the connecting tabs on the base. The only problem, though, is that I’ve been told that they don’t get along very well sliding shoes.

When I first read through this I thought the PW O22 would be a cost effective alernative for the few switches I need. (setting up a couple of sidings with operating accessories)

Now it looks like I either gamble on a set of PW O22’s in nice shape or spring for Ross as recommended here. I have found switch selection / reliable operation to be the most frustrating thing about building the layout. For every product that works for someone, it seems 1/2 as many have had horrible experiences.

I guess now someone will tell me they have had horrible experiences with Ross… [:)]