O Track Verses Fast Track???

Classic Toy Trains Forum
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I believe the track my Dad has was just O track. Not sure what the difference is between O and O27. I know they are both tubular.

I have no problem going with O27 if my dads engines and cars will still work with it.

I will be mouting it to a 4 x 8 plywood so it will remain. I really do not want to go with Fast Track with all the emails I have received about it. Everyone so far has had the same to say about O and O27 is that it is cheaper, more durable and more versatile.

So my question is still that will the current engines and cars my father had on his O track work on the O27 track or is the track a different width/spacing than O?

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The difference between 0 & 027 is the height. 0 is taller with taller ties and rails.The smallest radius for 027 is 27", the smallest radius for 0 is 31".

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All, I am still getting back into running trains; however, I have been using Fastrack for about the past two years. I am very pleased with it. As for durability, my now 6-year-old son and I have connected and disconnected our Fastrack at least 20 times in that span. We initially only set up Christmas layouts and a few carpet layouts which were the reasons for all the building and dismantling. We now have finished our benchwork and have been tinkering with the final track placement. We have had a few design changes requiring me to connect and disconnect the track a few times. The Fastrack holds up very, very well. I have had no problems with it. My first Lionel set came with the O27 tubular track which I still find difficult to use. The Fastrack is more expensive, but I believe it is worth the cost due to its durability and easy connectability. I would love for it to be cheaper, but for now I just restrain myself and buy it in small quantities. My layout will grow as I buy more track and I am okay with the slow progress due to the cost. That’s just my two cents and I hope it helps. - Joe

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Personally I am a fan of Fasttrack, primarily because of it’s ease of assembly by youngsters and if you are a carpet runner momma’s carpet stays nice and clean. It’s biggest drawbacks are the high cost and it can be a little noisey.

The bad part of tubular, either O or 027, is if it is new it will chew the hands up really bad during assembly. I have taken to wearing leather gloves and using LGB conductive grease to help make it easier. It can also be noisey unless an underlayment is used between track and subroadbed, I use a Celotex product, not Homasote, on the seasonal layout and it works great. It’s greatest asset is it’s pricing and “fudgefactor” during assembly.

1 Like
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I like using that Celotex too.

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O27 has sharper curves than O31; but the “27” refers to the diameter, not the radius, and the diameter to the ends of the ties at that. The actual radius is 12.5 inches. Likewise, the diameter of O31 is about 30.5 inches to the ends of the ties, while the radius is 14.142 inches. Fast Track diameter is measured to the center rail, not the ends of the ties; so the radius of O36 Fast Track is 18 inches.

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dougnottagrump - This is soooo true. I’ve created a whole fudge-factory on my benchwork…[(-D]

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I’ve used the following track systems:

O-27
O-31
FasTrack
Atlas 21st Century NS

IMHO:
O-27/O-31 - Cheepest on the market, easiest to cut custom lengths, fudge-factor. It is not ‘realistic’ enough for hi-rail layouts. Switch machine profiles are too high. Switches are reliable. Connecting and seperating track over time causes loose connections.

FasTrack - Pricey, but VERY reliable and more realistic than O-27/O-31. Track sections can be connected and seperated ALOT and they don’t wear out. Custom lengths can be difficult to make. Switches are DEAD-ON EXCELLENT.

Atlas - Most realistic on the market. Best track to use outdoors as it is Nickle Silver and will not rust. Ties are UV protected. Switches are vast and varied, however I do NOT like their switch controllers. When you are spending this kind of money on a switch you should not get the cheep $.02 HO controllers they include.

29

I don’t want to hijack this thread, but since it is older and the same question I had, I wanted to revive this a bit, especially since this was from 5years ago and the train world have developed a bit.

I have dug my old 027 set out for the kids and picked up quite a bit of cheap track. I also got a good deal on some switches on Ebay. But, as I am researching more, and have now built a 4x8 table, my local train store owner is trying to convince me to stop investing in anything 027 and slowly switch to Fastrack. (He isnt trying to sell me on it… this is a benign advise track.) His argument is that since I want to eventually buy a nice diesel engine, and with young kids getting into it, FT gives me the best overall chance to keep the kids interested. The track will accomodate the engines, the switches and track will accomdate all current and future “Action” accessories, and itll be easier to contine to build and add.

I know you can do a ton with 027, and the Ogauge track. But I sort of agree with him. I have more than enough 027 for what i need right now.

That said - I dont think I will ever get super complex in my layouts, but I could definitely see myself building larger than 4x8 layouts, and trying some cool things. I will never probably do full permanent laytouts with TONS of scenery, I am more a rolling stock, accessories, and buildings sort of guy.

I just wonder if he is right though - if since I have only 027 - if I want to go to the larger radius stuff if it makes sense to go Fastrack over the Ogauge/031 stuff?

[quote user=“Anonymous”]

I’ve used the following track systems:

O-27
O-31
FasTrack
Atlas 21st Century NS

IMHO:
O-27/O-31 - Cheepest on the market, easiest to cut custom lengths, fudge-factor. It is not ‘realistic’ enough for hi-rail layouts. Switch machine profiles are too high. Switches are reliable. Connecting and seperating track over

30

Have you priced FasTrack? $46.00 for a manual switch? I tend to use O-27 for my layouts and have no problems with it… all large & small equipment… these are all O-27, a combination of 27", 42", 54", & 72". 1121 & K-Line switches:

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As Rob said just because its called O27 doesn’t mean thats the only radius it goes up to 72" radius if you look it can be found. if you really want to change track system look at gargaves it goes up to 138" radius so how about a 11 1/2 foot circle :slight_smile: you can also combine them as they make adaptors to do so.

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In particular, there’s Marx O34, which has the O27 profile but a radius of 15.75 inches instead of 12.5, just a little more than the 14.142 inches of Lionel O31; so anything that needs O31 should run on O34. Of course, Marx hasn’t been made for a long time; but it’s really not hard to find in good condition.

Marx O34 turnouts are also available.

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I always used Lionel O gauge tubular track. When I purchased a Lionel Christmas set for my wife, fast trak included, I couldn’t believe how loud they sound running on fast trak. I guess I am “Old School” being used to only running tubular track. it’s a matter of preference and what you are looking for in your lay out. My collection has a lot of prewar locomotives and some post war as well. So I do use the tubular track, because as it was stated in this conversation, you may have problems with fast trak running prewar trains when using fast trak switches. Of course it also comes down to what you are willing to pay for as well. Good luck and enjoy “America’s Greatest Hobby”

3 Likes
34

Welcome aboard VJP!

35

My layout is strictly Lionel O gauge tubular track and I love it. I use 031 and 042 curves and it is easy to make your own insulated rail. My Christmas train around the tree uses Fastrack. It is easy to put together and it is great on top of carpet. The only issue is that the minimum radius is 18" (036).

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Welcome aboard VJP1936! :blush::locomotive:

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O27 style track for me. On my layout I have it with 27", 34" and 42" diameter curves.

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38

Thank you Pennytrains! Great to be here.