My whole layout was A/S turnouts. New one will be all Peco. I have differing views from several learned people about whether to use insulfrog or electrofrog units. I have NCE DCC and a point to point layout. I use some short steam locos that die on the W/S turnouts with unpowered frogs. I want to keep wiring as simple as possible with no indicator lights that would show position. I plan to use the finger method to actuate the turnouts.
Given these facts, which should it be, insul or electro frog?
If you have shorter steam locomotives (0-6-0s, 0-8-0s, and 2-8-0s), I would not hesitate to go with the live (electro) frogs. As long as the frog is properly isolated from the rest of the turnout, there’s only one additional wire required at the frog for proper switching of the polarity. You can then just use Caboose Industries 220S ground throws to accomplish that.
I have a number of small switchers on my 40s layout - both steam and diesel - and I’ve had zero problems using the live frogs. For short-based locomotives, live frogs is the way to go, IMO.
Rather than purchasing all new turnouts, you could power the frogs of the existing ones with the Tam Valley “Frog Juicer.” See http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products/dccpowerfrogjuicers.html . If you still have the old turnouts, using juicers is likely to be more cost-effective than replacing them outright. Wiring Frog Juicers is very simple and quick.
I agree 100% with Tom, in addition I will add that metal frog look much better than black plastic frog. I don’t use Caboose Industries 220S ground throws any more, after some 15 years on the club layout they don’t always carry current reliably. They are being replaced with Frog Juicer from Tam Valley Depot. Cost of Caboose Industries ground throws is 6.60$ while Mono Frog Juicer are close to 14.00$. Expensive but worth it in my opinion.
I would not hesitate to use Electrofrogs, but for the best reliability there are two jumpers underneath that should be cut, and new ones soldered on a different location. Then power the frog (there is a wire already on them) either with switch machine contacts or the Frog Juicer - the Frog Juicer, while more expensive, is also easier - you just hook it up, With switch machine contacts, you have to get the polarity right. Working witht he small jumpers may be the only negative in your case. See the “Uggg! Peco again!” or whatever thread in the Layout and Construction section, specifically MC Funkymonkey’s picture of installing the jumpers, which explains a darn good way of doing it quickly and easily without melting ties.
Nice thing about Pecos, you don;t even need a switch motor or switch stand, you can just flip the points by hand, and since they have an over-center spring, they stay put. So you could have the fancy electronic Juicers controling the frog power but the points moved manually.Sounds backwards, compared to other makes where the points are ‘floppy’ and need a ground throw or switch motor to hold them, but it would be reliable and nothing should EVER stall no matter how slowly you run it over the turnouts.
I think you will get differing views here too. Our club originally jumped on the insulfrog but soon found we had more short circuit problems with them. The cars metal wheels can span the “insul” part of the frog. The solution was clear finger nail polish, but that had to be refreshed every so often, and I always wondered where the worn off polish ended up. Dirty wheels no doubt.
Anyway I am firmly in the electrofrog camp, the club soon followed suit.
With out a doubt, ELECTROFROG by Peco. I don’t cut any jumpers on these turnouts. I just keep the points clean. I move the points by hand for most but I am installing some Tortoise machines and I do remove the spring when installing the Tortoise as this machine isn’t powerful enough to throw the points with the spring in. I did some testing on different machines before deciding on Tortoise. Excellent turnout. I think the quality of Peco C55 really stands out. Doug
