Hi, there.
I’ve been working on a small portable layout, HO-scale, built almost entirely with Atlas snap-track. Most of it is old, left over from my early teens (20+ years-ago, OK? I’m not counting…), and is thus brass. I’ve got a few new sections of track, and around six newer nickel-silver Atlas turnouts as well. I can switch between DC & DCC (most of my locos don’t have decoders yet).
Everything has been working relatively well until I started trying two relatively high-end acquisitions- Lionel Veranda Turbine, and BLI E-7. When running them at low speed, they will both occasionally short when running over the frogs of the old turnouts, but I haven’t seen them doing-so over the new turnouts. At high speed, the short apparently lasts a short-enough time that the DCC doesn’t react by shutting down, but with such a small layout, slow-speed operation is more common than high.
I guess I can invest about $75, and a few hours of time to replace the old turnouts with new (which, again, I haven’t noticed any failures on.) However, I was just wondering if anyone has suggestions for in-place changes that could be made?
The old turnouts have an identical appearance to the new Atlas snap switches, apart from the obvious brass vs. nickel-silver rail. They’ve got an insulated frog, and do not do power routing. The Wiring For DCC page lists the Atlas turnouts as being ready for DCC as-is (http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_atlas_roco.htm). That is, it appears that you can do some soldering for reliable connections (which I haven’t had problems with), but they are properly insulated to prevent shorts.
What it looks like, to me, is that the two high-end locos have a slightly different, probably flatter, profile than the other Proto 1000/2000, Atlas, Athearn, and IHC locos I’ve got. All of the latter run well across all the turnouts at whatever speed. I’ve toyed with the idea of filing off the back side of the rails on the divergent side of th