I like using old school cars from time to time and have recently aquired a few all metal box cars assembled from a kit. They have their original metal couplers. Ok to run or worth saving and put on a shelf?
Keith
I like using old school cars from time to time and have recently aquired a few all metal box cars assembled from a kit. They have their original metal couplers. Ok to run or worth saving and put on a shelf?
Keith
If the old couplers work reliably, it’s your choice. For consistency I’ve updated all my rolling stock with Kadee #58/#158s and Proto 2000 33" wheels.
Tom
If you are just going to put it on a shelf for display - You are good to go. If you are going to run the models, I would swap out the couplers to Kadee’s and maybe put new trucks/wheels under it. Not sure if you are talking about metal X2F couplers, old MDC knuckles, or early Kadee ‘K’ series with the vertical trip pin on the tip of the knuckle.
I have an old Roundhouse/MDC ‘metal’ rib-side box car. I plan to strip it, replace the trucks and couplers and repaint/decal it. The condition of it is basically all scratched up - It’s one of those ‘Hanger Queen’ projects for sometime…
Jim
I agree with Tom. The cars will run better with modern metal wheels. The couplers are up to you; if you have Kadee or similar couplers on the rest of your rolling stock, it would eliminate some hassles to update the couplers as well. Otherwise, you will need a car with horn-hook couplers on one end and Kadees on the other. It would also be a good idea to check the weight to see if it is within NMRA standards.
When the Boothbay Railway Village acquired an all metal boxcar a few years ago, I replaced the couplers and wheels, and tried to run with the original trucks. They were too worn, the wheels kept falling out of the truck, so I replaced the trucks as well. I installed a 1/8" styrene tube to make a post for the trucks. I drilled and tapped the tube for for a 2-56 screw to mount the trucks.
Hi Keith,
I agree with Tom, Jim and George. Updating the cars will make them operate better.
But remember, your railroad, your rules.
Derek
Thanks all, I agree with you regarding operability. So far I’ve not had any problems really. One car seems to need a cleaning of the bearing surfaces of the axles (cone and cup) and Ill eventually do that.
What I should have asked for is value. I think these cars have not been touched since built and are pretty neat for that reason. Barn find so to speak. If they were worth a lot of money because of that Id have to think twice. But I paid $8 each for them and to me it was a bargain but I guess thats what they were worth. Ill figure out how to post pictures perhaps.
Anyway, thanks, I appreciate the responses to the question of a newbie.
Unless they’re something special and hard to find they won’t be worth much. Athearn, Varney and some others made metal car kits. I have several from Athearn, Varney and Revell and while they look fairly descent I picked them up for very little. One thing is none of them has their boxes. Most collectors won’t pay much if anything for a model without it’s box and the condition of the box is a big factor.