First, I am new to DCC. I have an old engine (Athearn) that works just fine on DCC. moving forward, backwards, and headlight.
I have recently bought a BLI PRR H10s. I have a NCE DCC system.
I have selected the default engine address (03). I am trying to move the steam engine foward, the engine does NOT move. I am pressing function key 9. The steam engine’s sound starts up. I can press bell, whistle, etc.
Again, I am trying to move the steam engine forward, but the engine does not move.
Do I have a defective steam engine? Or am I missing something that I have to do before I can operate it.
You haven’t connected the cable that goes between the tender and the loco. There’s a slot in the front of the tender where it comes out - it may have gotten pushed in so you might have to fish it out - or take the tender shell off to extract it.
–Randy
Are they not coming with instructions any more? If so, you can download the instructions from the BLI site. If they are no longer including the instruction booklets - BOO ON BLI.
Yup, and that poster said there was no instruction book. I wonder if the same thing is happening here, no instructions provided, but not by accident, just BLI trying to save a few cents. Which if this is indeed the case, is clearly a bad choice, two people in 2 days with the exact same problem.
dudu made a bunch of replies to his second thread so the 5-thread monitoring rule elapsed before this thread, one of his first 5 posts, cleared moderation.
This is a bit beside the point, but I would like to mention that Randy was my go-to DCC guy way back (for my short history in the hobby) in 2006 when I was first dabbling in DCC. Randy, you talked me through CV settings, and I’ll never forget the gratitude I felt that you patiently informed me how to deal with them. Here you are, years later, still responding to the needs of new folk confounded by DCC. What’s more, you reliably answer such questions time after time.
Crandell, I could not agree more with your sentiments regarding Randy. He is an outstanding asset to the forum. There are some other notables as well on this forum, but Randy is the first to come to mind. My most recent example is Randy’s suggestion to turn off the BEMF on my super slow Intermountain loco. That suggestion worked, and it saved my sanity.
I don’t know what was faster, one of those Athearn rubber band drives or the AHM MDT switcher - that little switcher would go so fast it would roll off the track on a curve, just like a Lionel. The trick was to hit a speed that just lifted the inside wheels, dropping contact so it would slow down and power back up. whirr…whi…whi…whi…whirr. Someone brought an Athearn rubber band RDC to the club one time, quite fast but even more impressive was the car length snap back if you killed power while it was running full speed.
