I’ve just unearthed two NIB Oriental Limited 4-6-2’s in my basement. They date back to about 1986 or 87, and I can’t find a listing anywhere that would give me an idea of their price. (I don’t remember what I paid when I got them.)
As I recall they were Oriental’s economy line-- still fine looking models.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
The Powerhouse Mikes and Pacifics pop up on Ebay from time to time (none on there now), and generally sell in the $100-$200 range. I’ve picked up five in the past year (they pull better than the BLI mikes), all for just under $150 apiece.
I picked up an undec 2-8-2 for $119+shipping, a 4-6-2 for $89+ and another 4-6-2 painted black for $125. The tenders kind of suck but I’ve got some Bachmann tenders that I’m going to use, hopefully for some DCC . We’ll see how it works. It’s on the back burner now . I did replace the springs on the Mikado with some softer NWSL ones . What a diferance! They pull well just not much detail, They are cast metal boiler which gives them the weight to pull. And they painted it Brass color,isn’t that sweet.they pull better than most old (real Brass) out there. Good luck and if you get one don’t use the NWSL whimpy springs they are way to ligt . Hope this helped.
Tom
In their time, they were excellent models. They can still be made into very, very good models, with some minor changes and added detail. Someone has/had one, a 2-8-8-2 N&W, on the bay for $1500+. “Very rare”, of course. Not too many takers last I saw. Can you say Proto?
Thanks folks. I appreciate your input. I spent a long time on the net last night trying to find one-- finally located one listed on a hobby shop site-- wanted $295 for it. From what I’m hearing hear-- that’s a bit high.
I’ve got a Powerhouse USRA 2-8-8-2 lettered for Rio Grande and it’s a honey!! The series was fairly economical when it first came out–not the usual plethora of brass detail, but they were noted for their smooth running and heavy pulling characteristics. The boiler is solid metal, with minimal piping (superdetailing to be added by owner) but the drive mechanism is incredibly smoot hand quiet. Mine was $450 when I bought it about eight years ago (second-hand), and it’s one of my ‘smarter’ brass investments. It will out-pull my P2k USRA 2-8-8-2 by about 85%, and has really great slow-speed control. Terrific locos, I wish Oriental had put out more wheel arrangements in this series.
Tom [:P][:P][:P]
They are great runners. I have several of the 2-8-8-2 models and a 2-4-4-2.
Don’t know if you are still around, however I also purchased two 4-6-2 Light Paciffic’s in the mid 80’s for around $125 per engine. They were acquired locally here in Columbus, Ohio at the Train Station. My question is, I’m interested in converting them to DCC and want to include a head light install and don’t have any documentation as to how to take the engine apart. Do you have any parts list or documentation as to how to accomplish this type of install? Thanks for any help you can provide. . . Hugh1939
Hugh:
I’m not sure about the 4-6-2, but my USRA mallet dis-assembles like most brass articulateds, a couple of screws under the cab and a central screw under the second cylinder set.
I would assume that like most ‘brass’ models, your 4-6-2 should come apart in much the same way–two screws either at the back or under the cab, and a central screw through the cylinders, which also holds on the front truck. After that, the cab and boiler should just lift off. As to DCC conversion, those ‘powerhouse’ models have solid metal boilers, so I don’t know what kind of room you’d have between the motor and boiler for a decoder. And drilling for a headlight could be a major challenge, if your 4-6-2 like my mallet has a solid boiler casting.
Tom
You might find this useful:
Tom -
**Appreciate your response. After reviewing my two 4-6-2’s and looking for the screws you mentioned, I was able to find only one screw - and that held the front truck in place.**However, after removing the front truck, I found the undercarriage was notched under the cab. Once the front screw was removed, the undercarriage moved forward, down and out in one piece. The second discovery was the cast metal boiler was hollow all the way to the front light position. Believe I will be able to drill through the casting and thread a wheat blub to give me a working front headlight. I’ll also experiment with an LED to see if that would work as well. **Further, when converting this engine to DCC, found I needed to insulate the engine from the chassis or you could short out the decoder. I’ll cut a thin piece of plastic and place it between the engine and bracket holding it in place with plastic screws.**The combined decoder and sound board (Soundtraxx Tsunami Medium Steam #826102) can be located inside the tender as there is room for that and an 11mm speaker. To complete the installation, run the light wires to the rear of the engine and add the two engine wires to a 4 wire mini plug. That will be connected to the tender and then to the decoder. Track power can be picked up from the ten