I recently replaced my worn out Aztec airbrush with a new Paasche model H airbrush set. First off, I really love how it is much simpler to disassemble and clean as opposed to my old Aztec, which gave me fits it I didn’t clean it perfectly every time. My question is about my cleaning process for the Paasche. After every color, I fill the color cup with water and spray until it comes out clear, then soak the nozzle, tip, and color cup in warm water and then let it dry.
For those who own a model H, is this a good method of cleaning so the brush and nozzles will last a while (i.e a few years)? I mostly use it for weathering, probably 2 or 3 items per week so not a lot of hours per week. I’m sort of paranoid given how quickly my aztec locked up, and I’d rather not have to buy new nozzles and tips every few months.
I do not have a Paasche H air brush, but I do have lots of experience with air brushes. I recently have been converting to acrylic model paints and thought I could get rid of the lacquer thinner issues. What I have found is that if I let an air brush sit for more that a couple of minutes, I will not be able to clean out the air brush completely with just running water/Windex/whatever through it and/or doing a ‘back flush’ of the air brush. That water based acrylic really sets up fast.
Last night I was spraying some Floquil ‘concrete’ with my Badger 105 ‘Patriot’ air brush. It is a dual action internal mix with a color cup that gravity feeds the paint. I was spraying it ‘thin’ like a wash as I was trying to put ‘mortar’ in some brick work(Walthers depot kit). I ran into two issues:
The paint spray just stopped - The little air hole in the color cup’s cap clogged. A couple of minutes to figure out what was the problem and off I went again.
When I got done I had to wipe of the paint so only the gray was in the mortar lines. You guessed it, the air brush clogged up good. I cleaned it out with water, and back flushed it - then went to bed. I just knew I would be doing a good ‘clean’ on it sometime Sunday. After church, I took the air brush apart and put everything in a glass baking dish to soak in lacquer thinner. I had to use some small cotton swabs to really get the paint out of the bottom of the color cup where the channel is that the needle runs through.
While I was at it, I took my old Badger 200 apart and soaked/cleaned it as well. I tend to soak/clean out my air brushes with lacquer thinner after most large painting sessions or at least once/week. I had a plastic Aztec as well, and they do not handle the strong lacquer thinner cleaning. I am sure you will get good service o
The following assumes the paint is still wet and fresh, if the paint is dry you’ll have to disassemble everything and soak in hot soapy water, if that doesn’t do it , then try laquer thinner.
First off, don’t worry about the tips and nozzles, they’re solid brass and will last for many years, just don’t drop them!
Your process is good, I would just add this: 1st. Start flushing with the bezel all the way open, 2nd. when flushing water thru the brush, also lightly cover the front of the airbrush with a finger and make a tapping motion (with the air & water on). This will back-flush the brush.
At this point you can continue with next color (the parts do not have to dry first).
FWIW, I use an ultrasonic cleaner when my airbrush gets gumed up. Turn on the heater to the tank to get the water hot, pour in some Windex, dump the disassembled parts in, set the timer for 30 minutes, come back and the airbrush looks like new.
I dont think an ultrasonic cleaner is the least bit essential, but it is nice to have and really speed up the process. No need for an overnight soak and dont need to manually do anything with a fine brush.
Hi guys, thanks for the responses so quickly. In addition to my first post, I should add that I tried Orange Blast, as mentioned in an article in MR a few years ago, which seemed to work well on the color cup removing stubborn paint.
With back flushing, do I make contact with the brush, or just hold my finger in front of it in a tapping motion and don’t touch the brush at all??
Jim: I have been trying lately to convert to acryiic as well, since I ruined an aztec nozzle with floquil paint. Luckily my H-set did come with a braided hose, but I do like the idea of a stand to keep the brush off the table, which is how I’ve been storing it when not painting. I’ll have to look and see where I can find one, besides Micro-Mark.
Keith, I think an Ultrasonic cleaner is a good idea. I’d be able to use it not only for airbrushing, but cleaning some other tools.
Jay: On a side note, I’ve read your C415 build thread on DD many times, and have a old AHM c415 that I plan on doing a similar project with. Nice job!