Painting Atlas railings?

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Hi everyone:

Preamble:

I am working on an HO Atlas RS-3 project. The engine was purchased undecorated and I had intended to use it to help me learn how to paint a locomotive shell (CP maroon and grey). However, in my wandering around eBay I found a CP painted shell for what seemed to be a reasonable price. (That of course gave me an excuse to procrastinate even longer on setting up my paint operation- slap my hand![(-D])

The problem:

The painted shell came sans front and rear railings (that’s “without” in french - Canadian eh!). “No problem” I said because the undecorated shell came with all the railings. However, the undecorated railings are black of course, and I need them to be bright yellow to match the prototype.

So to make a long question short - how do I paint the railings so that the paint with stay put?

Thanks

Dave

P.S. apologies for the excess verbiage! I seem to have a need to complicate everything. I need to take lessons from David Bedard.[swg][(-D][(-D][(-D][:o)] No offense intended David.

2

Nothing wrong with the long form. [;)] The popular 140-character format is great for people with not much to say, but who like to keep saying it.[:o)]

Someone recently mentioned the paint they use on RC and other model race cars with flexible plastic bodies. It flexs with the body, so may work for those railings. I’ve also heard a light soda or other etching blast to give the railing some tooth is also helpful.

3

Any sort of adhesion promoter like MicroPrep, or the big spray can from an Auto Supply store. Spray your handrails with that first then paint on your favorite color paint [:D]

Chris

4

Thanks Mike:

I hadn’t thought of using the RC type paints. Great suggestion.

Question(s): what type of device would be suitable for the etching, what would it cost, and who sells them, and what other uses do they have (i.e. stripping paint maybe)? I’ll do some research on my own but there is nothing better than having somebody who “knows the ropes” already offer their experience.

Thanks

Dave

5

Thanks Chris:

Your solution sounds a lot easier than sandblasting but I’m still interested in hearing Mike’s reply.

Dave

6

I use the automotive adhesion promoter myself, but first I give them a wash in laquer thinners to remove any remaining mold release. Since you are painting them yellow, you will either need a light colored primer or a good covering paint. I use TruColor paint and can easily paint their yellow or white over black nice and solid in just a couple coats. Other paints may not cover as well and with a coat of primer and / or multiple coats of paint, it will visually thicken up the diameter of the railings, which you don’t really want.

I’ve also tried my Paasche media blaster, but all the hassle and mess really didn’t make that much difference from my method above.

Mark.

7

NOTHING works as well as first cleaning the handrails then priming the bare handrails with Auto Bumper Plastic Adhesion Promoter, which is generally sold at Autozone, NAPA, Pep Boys, etc. I’ve used basic Krylon satin or flat paint AFTER priming the handrails with the adhesion promoter and have never had any cracking or flaking, even after bending the handrails accidentally. I’m sure more flexible hobby paints would work even better AFTER priming the handrails with the promoter. And, IMO, the rattle can paints stick better than brush on paints, but others’ experiences may differ.

The adhesion promoter has to allow those slippery plastic bumpers on cars to be painted with then clear coated, without cracking the paint when bumped and flexed. The stuff works great.

I’ve even had to strip paint from handrails after the promoter/rattle can combination, in order to paint them yet a different color, and the paint was hard to strip off using common stripping solutions.

8

Dave,

Mike is correct about the R/C paint for the railings. I don’t believe you can get it anymore, but I used and still do, for I have two full bottles of it, Pactra Racing Finish Acryl paint that will not chip or flake when the hand rails are bent or scrapped. I use it on the step railings of all my Zebra Stripe locos, the ones with Derlin plastic and Metal. White and Yellow.

Did not have to prime the railings, before painting.

Frank

9

Dave,

I think Chris’s solution of the adhesion promotor is probably a better one. Mark’s comments that follows yours above sums up why.

If you do want to try it – I heven’t, just heard about it – I think Micro-Mark sells a small glovebox-type arrangement to use for soda-, walnut shell- or other bead-blasting. I know Harbor Freight does. I know some folks have chemical sensitivities that might call for this instead of the adhesion promotor, so it’s another option, although a bit more of a chore to use.

10

Thank you everyone for all your suggestions:

I think I will go the adhesion promotor route with a thorough cleaning before hand, and I will spray the finished colour either with my air brush or a rattle can. Sounds straight forward and cost effective.

Dave