I have read the MR May and June '98 articles on painting brass which said to remove tarnish bathe in Vinegar and clean rest up with copper polish. My questions are:
If after I clean up I paint over any tarni***hat is left, what will happen? – Has anyone experience in painting over tarnish? There is no pitting – just looks bad.
Read articles about mixing engine black to come up with a “warmer” color and one that will not cover all the detail in a deep black but none using Scalecoat paint. Does anyone know a combination using Scalecoat that will achieve this. I use Scalecoat II for plastic. I know that regular Scalecoat is better for metal but is it OK to use Scalecoat II on brass?
If the tarnish has not etched the surface it should cover with no problem. I definitely prefer Floquil for brass and the red oxide primer first. Check to make sure the primer covered the area in question before proceeding. Mixing in some white or using scalecoats equivalent to Floquil Grimy Black shoul giv eyou the results you are looking for. I prefer an antique white for lightening and weathering on Steam. I also weather the drivers and side rods with dust color to bring out the details and dust the top of the engine with an overspray of graphite to represent cinders and smoke fallout on the bolier top and running boards. There should be no problem with Scalecoat 2 as long as you prime the engine first.
Painting over tarnish can be done but I always use a primer coat. I also use a primer that is more “neutral” in color and light, almost a tan. This allows for complete coverage by colors that are notorious for poor coverage, like white, yellow and red.
I use Scalecoat for locomotives and will not use anything else unless I can’t mix it . The colors of Scalecoat 2 are compatible with regular Scalecoat. I use a mixture of three parts Loco Black to one part Graphite and Oil for my basic engine color and use the opposite ratio, three parts G&O to one part Loco Black for the smokebox./firebox. I’ve been painting for over twenty years and this is what works for me. To see some of what I’ve done visit my website. If you are interested, I have a printed copy of a clinic I gave a while back on painting a brass loco, using a diesal as an example but the principles are the same for steam. E-mail me off line if you would like a copy.