These structures are highly detailed but easy to build because all of the details are molded into place including the windows and doors. For all practical purposes, a building is four walls plus a few miscellaneous parts.
My procedure is to brush two coats of paint on the entire structure, then separately paint all of the window frames, using an Optivisor and a tiny brush, taking great care not to get paint on the brick walls.
Last night, I had a brilliant idea. Why not paint the window frames with a large brush, then touch up the bricks where thee window frame paint cover carries over onto the brick.
The way that I have been doing it takes forever to cautiously paint the window frames so paint doesn’t get on the brick work.
I typically use rattle-can paint to spray my DPM structures, which are all brick-walled models. Then I add mortar between the bricks, and finally I paint the windows by hand, using a very small brush. I do all of this before assembly, as it’s a lot easier for me to work on small wall sections than the whole structure.
Where possible, I paint details while they are still on the sprue. When I can’t, I generally paint them first, with the large wall surfaces last to be painted. When I paint them, I cut in around the detais with a smaller brush, then finish the wide areas with a larger brush. Generally, only minor touch-up is needed.
Give it a try. I think you will find that it works very well.
Edit: On DPM structures, install window glazing after painting, unless you WANT paint on the “glass”.
I rattle can paint the walls, add mortar, then fine brush paint the windows. Its a pain either way.
Their 200 series buildings come with separately installable and paintable windows and doors, as do their modular walls, so I try to stick to using those DPM components and use other manufacturers downtown-type buildings as much as possible.
If you’re not a fan of the fine brush work, try this: Spray the walls a neutral color that can serve as the color of your doors and window frames, but isn’t so bright or vivid that it will show through the paint in the next step. Let dry thoroughly, then cut rectangles of masking tape to cover the doors and windows, which in DPM kits are usually deeply recessed into the walls. Once you’ve masked all the doors and windows, spray the wall color over it. Let dry, remove the masks, and assemble.
One trick I read many years ago in (I think) MR is to run a sharp knife blade around the perimeter of every cast-in window and door before painting. The process leaves a small ridge in the plastic that forces brush bristles to follow along and leave a clean, straight edge. It only takes a few minutes at most on any DPM or similar structure.
For larger areas like storefronts or bigger loading doors I mask and use spray paint or an airbrush. The color I apply first depends on the relative complexity of masking one vs another.
I rattle can paint the inside walls first with a light color so the when the building is lit up, the light dosen’t bleed through the walls. Then I paint the windows/doors with a fine brush and then the brick. After that i apply mortar. Then windows and blinds and assemble the walls. Then place the building on a pre-detail floor…meaning i have the floor covered,furniture,shelving, etc. for what ever purpose i try to present. Then install joists to attach lighting to for each floor.
Willie, could you elaborate a bit? How dark do you need to go using light colors inside the walls to avoid light bleed? Tan? Light Grey? What works? I’ve only heard of black being used so would like to know a little more.
I have quite a few of those DPM models and along with those many other MFG’s buildings and none are painted black. Some Grey, Tans and some silver. I usually start out air brushing the interior first, then air brush the outside with my color. What you have to watch for on those buildings they have 1/8 inch mold holes on the inside, make sure you get in those holes. Most all of my buildings have some interior viewing, like truck docks and so forth. I’m fortunate to have a color printer, so I do searchs for MFG’s building interiors like warehousing on Google Images and copy and print out an Image reduced or blown up in size and glue that to the interior walls. Just add some desks, pallets, boxes and so forth. When lighted you can see the detail through the windows or open doors. Some buildings I use scribed vertical strip wood from Northeastern to look like paneling. Some people don’t get into all that…but I enjoy it, detail is my ting.
Capt. Grimek, I have used flat white and flat gull and light grays. had to use 2 coats in some cases. After the paint dries, i get the interior light i’m going to use,put some power to it, turnout the room lights and put the walls up near the light to see if i get any bleeding, then start assembly. I mount my interior lights to a beam (evergreen square stock) in the overhead of the structure to get more realistic lighting effects and install resistors as needed to dim.
I gotta tell ya, put on an Optivisor and get a super fine paint brush, and it is a whole new world when painting fine detail like the recessed window frames on DPM buildings or those little Preiser figures.
I’ve found pretty much any color will work. Since I eventually put a photo inside the windows to simulate interior details, I use whatever color the walls would be (often Dirty White).
Another vote for the microbrushes. I have been pleased with them on the window frames of my N-scale DPM models. I thin the paint and use the brush a to control the flow of the paint and voila.
Along with my super fine Artist Red Sable brushes, that I’ve had for over 40yrs, they will last forever…if you take care of them. I also use products from this MFG, you get more in a package, for a buck or two more: