CRBlues,
Yes Floquil Bright Silver is nice for headlight simulations…but one can go an “extra step” by drilling out “cast-on” silver lights and replacing them with MV Lenses which look very realistic.
ModelTrainman,
The Bare Metal Foil also works also and has been around for a couple of decades. Years ago MRR featured an F unit treated with the Bare Metal Foil, which was a real beauty!
However, for me, I just didn’t want the hassle of going through the steps with applying the material from the foil, when with Alclad I just basically dump it in the jar and shoot and get just as good or better results in a fraction of the time. Since my hobby times are limited, I look for processes that work well and are time savers. With the Alclad II series paints, I got the best of both qualities.
Some great info with great results. I like the look of the first guys planes. It is interesting what he had to say about the primer, though. I would never have thought to use Krylon gloss black and seal decals with Future. I suppose the results speak for themselves!
Has anybody had any problems with the primer they have used?
My only “personal” critique of the SNJ product is that buffing with colored powders may be required; which I’m not too fond of. This is why I wasn’t crazy about “Paint Metallizing” in the past. With the Alclad II, it’s now easier than ever.
I am trying the Alclad 2 stainless steel this weekend. The first process I am trying is the one using Krylon gloss black as a primer and Future as a sealer. I will post the results with pics Sunday (hopefully). Wish me luck.
I am also breaking in a brand new Paasche H with this project, too. I guess I may as well bring it in big. The owner of the LHS that I go to is also awaiting the results to see if he will start stocking Alclad, so I hope I get this right!!
Boy, is this ever becoming a process. It didn’t quite come out the way I expected, but I think I know where I went wrong. I was using too small of a mixing needle on the airbrush, and the “primer” went on a little rough. Still tryin’…
I am still working on getting a smooth, gloss black base coat. I am going to try to find the Alclad black primer and test with that. It seems there are complaints about how good it is, but you would think they would make the best primer for THEIR finishes.
If all else fails, I do have Floquil bright silver on stand-by!
Csmith, I may have mentioned this before but if you don’t want to use acrylics you can get very smooth finishes with Floquil Gloss Black as well as Scale Coat II’s high gloss black. The key was just thinning it to the point where it layed on smoothly. I had to play with the black a bit also. If the air pressure is too high…the paint will look too dry and rough. Too low and the paint is gobby and runs.
Don’t give up…just a little patience! The results are worth it.
The web site below is for the Alcad paint. It is very touchy to handle as finger prints will ruin you work until the final overcoat is applied, but the results can be very good. It is extremely shiny but so is the finish on any platic plating until it is dull-coated or toned down.
Thanks for posting the additional info. I was planning on handling the painted bodies with cotton gloves until I sealed them. I think I am going to test with Future as a sealant.
Names James, out Phx. way. Model the SP and am interested in your coach paint method, first is this Alclad similar to the old Paint & Plate we used years age for model airplane? Second how would you deal with a needed red name board stripe?
I am not familiar with the Paint and Plate method you’re referring to.
I apologize if I sound like an Alclad pitchman, but whenever I find something that, IMHO, works exceptionally well…I always enjoy passing on the info. As for the stripe you’re referring to; once you’ve finished applying the Alclad II (whether stainless steel or chrome), come back with a clear. Once the clear is cured, you can apply what ever paint or decals you’d like.
Note: Future finish reportedly works well, but remember that if you use Alclad II Chrome, Future won’t dull the finish much at all so the passenger car will look “too shiny”. So if you take this route, consider applying a thin coat of semi-gloss or satin clear to dull that finish to a realistic appearance before sealing with Future.
CSmith, yes fingerprints can show up on Alclad if it’s not cleared/sealed. But no need to worry. I keep it simple…If I need to move the car body for some reason, I just stick two pencils through the windows and move the shells anywhere I want, no problem.
To make it easier---------I recently cut out and shaped two pieces of white styrofoam that came from a computer box at my school. The base is about a foot square. I then took a smaller white rectangular styrofoam piece, shaped it with a box cutter knife so that a passenger car shell can sit on it. I shoved this piece, carefully into the base and wala-----Instant passenger car shell jig! I can pick the whole thing up or move it as needed while painting, metalizing, or clear coating-----without putting my hands on the shell. Spraying roofs, sides, and vestibule ends is a piece of cake.
Oh boy did I have a brain fart!! I have been using a H1 aircap with a H3 mixing needle. ARGHHHHH!!! That seems to be a huge part of the problem of getting a smooth coat of paint. I totally forgot to change the aircap last time.
Anyhow, I have applied a new coat tonight and will allow it to cure for a couple of days. Then on with the Alclad!!
Here is the first “victim”. I used the Alclad gloss black primer and Alclad 2 stainless steel. I sealed the finish with Future. The roof is from a Walther’s Budd baggage.
The problem that I have found with the Alclad stainless steel is availability. I had to order it online. Not a single hobby shop in the city of Colorado Springs had any, and I was only able to find one bottle in Denver.
