Painting question, re: New River Mining Co.

I am about to wash the pieces of Walther’s New River Mining Co. and then spray them aluminum tomorrow when dry.

I looked at the photo on the box and the windows have these tiny frames which are painted black. If I install the windows the way they come in the kit they’ll look kinda not right. Does anyone know how to paint those extremely small frames around the panes of the glass or should I just leave it? Is it even possible to paint such small lines?

Any suggestions? anyone ever built this kit?

Thanks in advance.

Paul the slowly getting there beginner…

I haven’t examined this kit in detail, but … are the window “frames” molded into the “glass”? (I had another Walthers kit in which the windows were like this). Painting with a brush would be a royal pain. Masking and spraying, not much better. One suggestion was to use some kind of roller, which paints the frames, but leaves the “glass” untouched. Another idea might be to use a black marker, and a straightedge, and “paint” them with a marker. A paint marker could be used, I suppose. As a last resort, I’d consider masking each “line” and brush painting, though this could be rather time consuming.

Brad

Paul,

It’s been awhile since I built mine, but I took a peek at it to refresh my memory. The windows have a grove cast in the back that represents the mullion around each pane. Mine look vaguely greenish. I think I simply inked them with a thinline black marker and the ink has since faded to this greenish color. It’s actually rather pleasing.

IIRC, all I did was carefully ink each pane, being careful to let the ink dry and not smear before marking the perpendicular lines on each one.

A roller! Or marker! GREAT ideas, why didn’t I think of that??? I’m gonna go with the marker idea. This really helps, thanks a lot guys, I appreciate it!

Paul, the way I painted mine was first I put black paint of a piece of cork roadbed. After it soaked up a little I laid the window on it so the paint got on the frame.

Might look at a ink pad, jut don’t press down hard, you get paint on the glass.

Ken

Now THAT’S a cool idea! Thanks Ken.

A Sharpie works well to do the window frames. Here’s the best picture I have that shows the window frames done with Sharpie pen.

Very nice! When you did it did you use a fine or a thick Sharpie? Also, it looks like you did some panes of glass too or is that the photo?

Did you do the raised edges of from behind the raised edges?

Looks great.

My, but that glass is clean!

Back when I ‘minefanned’ a working tanko in Fukuoka-ken, a half century or so ago, the glass in all the windows was all but opaque from clinging coal dust, mostly inside but some outside. Here and there were little spots where somebody had wiped a pane or two to let a little light in - possibly to get illumination while making a repair.

There really is a LOT of coal dust all over a working mine - on the buildings, the ground and the people…

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with collieries)

Paul, I used a Sharpie Fine Point. I used it on the raised outside part of frame. I didn’t fill in any of the panes, although I could still do that. Also, a lot of folks that modeled this building opened several of the windows.

Chuck, What can I say, I like clean windows. Actually, I will probably be doing a lot more weathering to all of my structures and rolling stock. I’m sure they won’t stay that clean.

I use a BIG Marks-A-Lot Black Marker

The tip is about 3/8" x 1/2" and I just pressed the marker down on the raised parts of the glass (the Wathers Engine house and Car Shows had that type of Glass

It was easy to drag the Marker across the raised plastic!

And on the Coal Tipples - I always scratch the back of the clear plastic window glass with find sandpaper and then take the same Magic Markers and blacken in all of the window to give the darker look that most all Tipples have (due to the Coal Dust)!

I use the black windows on most all of my industrial building flats so that you can not see through the glass and see the wall behind the building flat!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

Can anyone help me with the New River Mining Co.?

I have no idea where item number 46 (8 of 'em) go. The directions are vague. They look like metal triangles. Also, where and how do the ladders attach? Can anyone send photos? If needed I can scan in the section of the directions in question. I wish Walthers had been a little more detailed in their directions like say a model car or plane.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

And hey Rich, I’m NOT giving up! HA! LOL!

Anyone? Can someone help with the ladders and triangular pieces where they go? [:(]

Can you do the scan and post a pic?

The little triangular pieces go at the top of the support legs as can be seen in my picture below. Look just above the two hopper cars. I too had difficulty figuring out where these went, as they are not shown on the picture on the box. The ladders just get glued to a little ridge below each of the two doors.

Hope this helps.

Dude! Thanks a LOT! And I mean a LOT! This really helps. It looks real nice.

Hey Rich, these pics are for you. Getting there s-l-o-w-l-y…

Your getting there Paul!

Is that by chances the 3 way turnout I was telling you to get? [:-^]

Ken

Yup, slowly.

Today I painted the doors on the mining company and started building the bottom support structure. But it’s gonna be a pain keeping the walls aligned at a 90 degree. So far it’s coming out nicely.

And, yes, that is the wye but I hate the code 100. No one on Earth sells a code 83 three way WYE and I have no idea why. So I bought some of those 83-100 joiners which work well if you bend them down a little with pliers. I could also do as Pelle Soeberg does, he crushes one half of the joiner then solders the rail to the flattened one.

Doesn’t Walthers offer one in Code 83? I know they used to, I had 2 of them.

Brad

I might have used the wrong word, a three way, nope. All they offer is that code 100 PECO. Wonder why no other manufacturer offers one in 83?