I am about to build a City Classics kit where the window frames are part of the walls. What is the best way to paint them a different color than the wall? Is it best to spray paint the wall and the frames and then go back and hand paint the frames with a brush, or can you paint one of the colors and then mask off to spray paint the other color?
Rick
I usually spray everyting the window/trim color and then paint everyting except the trim and windows and doors with a brush. Ths works particularly well when the window/trim color is a light color similar to brick mortar color. It’s much easier to paint everything except the windows with a brush than to try and mask or hand paint winodws/trim last.
I have also on rare occasions cut the windows out entirely and replaced them with spearately molded and painted plastic windows.
I always just spray paint the structure walls, generally with a rattle can primer, and then brush paint the window and door trim. At my age, I use a magnifying lamp, which gives a much better result. My paint lines are straighter, sharper and clearer.
The magnifying lamp cost me nder $20 at an electronic shop, and it has been one of the best things I ever got for detail work.
Generally if the windows are cast in it is quite easy to paint them with a finer brush. I turn the wall so I can touch the window frame from the inside. It is quite easy to then go down the frame to a corner. I also make every effort to rest the heel of my hand on the part or the table it rests on to keep it steady
They are a pain, aren’t they? Who ever thought that was a good idea? [:D] I know that as I get older I don’t have the patience and eyesight to paint things like that anymore.
I wish that I had some great suggestions, but I don’t know of any one good way to paint them. The only thing I will add is that if I am brush painting them, I usually try to use an acrylic paint like the old PollyScale paints. That way, if you make a mistake, you can wipe it off using a Q-tip dampened with something like Fantastik or Awesome spray cleaner. Or once the paint starts to thicken and dry, you can often rub off any smears using a wet toothpick.
Looking back, it would’ve been so nice if we could have had separate door and window moldings, but we just weren’t able to afford it. It took everything we had just to get the kits made as they are. I realize that not everyone enjoys that type of work, but they are kits and just like model car and airplane kits that many of us made when we were young, they do require some painting and model building skills.
I’m sorry for causing so much grief over the years. [:(]
Jim S.
No need to apologize. I wasn’t complaining; just trying to find the best technique.
I agree that they are kits. I get more satisfaction from completing something that takes effort than a slap it together project.
Rick
I didn’t take it as a complaint, Rick. I was just apologizing to the world in general. [8-|]
Jim
Ahh, Jim, you are too funny. My only City Classics structure is the Smallman Street Warehouse that I kitbashed into an 11-story cold storage facility.
But, I have painted a few dozen of the DPM buildings. I hand brush the buildings with Pollyscale acrylic paints (yep, still have lots of it), taking care not to get paint into the recessed window frames. Then, with a fine brush point I hand paint the recessed window frames.
The fact that the window frames are recessed makes it a whole lot easier to paint those window frames. I recommend using an Optivisor for such a project.
Rich
I was in Wally World a couple of years ago, and I found an assortment of Sharpie (very) thin line markers. They work great for doing fine painting, signs, or anything that requires a small line. They came in a container with about 30 or so different colors. Well worth it, and very useful for a variety of uses.
Joe
Hello All,
This can also be a problem with sills, lintels, and decorative brickwork.
For me, it depends on how much area am I trying to paint.
For large areas, I will paint the entire facade the base coat.
I will do this with a rattle can, using the “Bane Marie” method to heat the can.
After fully dry- -typically 24-hours- -then, I’ll mask the surrounding area and paint the details. I’ll use an airbrush for this step.
I will also use a high-quality masking tape with some form of “Edge Guard®” or “paint shield” for a clean edge.
With a toothpick, coffee stir stick, or craft stick (ice cream treat) I will make sure all the edges are pressed down- -burnished.
This is especially true if you have had to trim the masking tape.
When doing this be careful you don’t breach the masking tape with the burnishing tool.
I have also found ultra-thin masking tapes at my local auto parts store:
If the area in question is too small for masking and airbrushing, I will use a fine-tipped brush. Don’t skimp on quality here.
For details on machinery I have also used:
White paint pens can also be a handy addition for details.
Hope this helps.
Those are great suggestions. I have also thought it would be pretty cool if there was a way to do window frames using decals. I did one of our storefronts using just pieces of decal stripes. It turned out way better than I could ever paint it by hand. I’ve been meaning to write an article about it one of these days…
Jim
I usually airbrush the structure, then use a brush to do the details, usually with Pollyscale paints.
Here’s one of City Classics’ “company houses”, with a few modifications. The structure was mostly white plastic for the walls and light grey for the roofs and porch, so no airbrushing was required. I used various brushes to colour the foundation and the roofing, and suitably-sized brushes for the trim.
(click on the photos for a larger view)
I had a bunch of DPM structures with walls cast as one piece, but photobucket seems to have hidden the pictures. For those, I assembled the structure, then airbrushed the walls. The doors and windows, sills and trim were all done in brush work…actually a relaxing operation.
Wayne
I paint the walls first, then spend three-four days masking the brick, then I spray the window color.
It is a lot of work, but it is worth it.
-Kevin