I’m using Peco code 83 turnouts for the first time. I like that their switch machines attach directly to the underside of the turnout, eliminating alignment issues. I don’t particularly like having to cut a large rectangular hole in my roadbed / subroadbed, but I’ll get over that tradeoff. I did pick up the tip here (sorry, don’t recall the poster, but thank you!) to trap a thin peice of grey-painted styrene between the bottom of the tunout and the switch machine, to give the ballast a “shelf” to go on. This area of the turnout would be lightly ballasted anyway.
My question now is, do the motors stay in place by simply snapping the four tabs into the turnout slots, or should I CA glue or bend over the tabs?
Ed
I always bend over the tabs, just a small amount. They don’t need to go all the way over 90 degrees. Paint them to match the ties.
Thank you Mr. B, I just tried that, and they bend very easily. Guess I was afraid to try it!
Ed
I twist each tab about 45 deg. Same result. I have some switch motors with plastic mounting legs. They seem to snap into place quite securely. Haven’t had any come out yet. If you ever get any of those, don’t glue them in place. If the coils ever burn out (very easy to do) you’ll likely wreck the turnout trying to get the point motor off.
Yeah, that’s why I only bend mine over a little bit. They’re easier to remove if necessary.
While we’re on the subject, I forgot the obligatory warning about Peco switch machines:
These take more power than most other twin-coil machines, like Atlas. If you want solid, reliable performance from Peco machines, use a capacitive discharge (CD) circuit to drive them. You can buy commercial units, complete with power supply, for about $30. I built my own with about $5 in Radio $hack parts, and the most expensive part was the fancy little blue screw terminals for the circuit board. The circuit itself is 2 resistors and 2 capacitors. One CD circuit can drive all of your twin-coil machines.
The CD circuit not only provides a bigger “kick” when you flip the toggle, it also protects the machines by limiting the current after that initial jolt. Since the biggest single cause of switch machine failure is running constant power through them because a momentary toggle sticks in the ON position, you will protect your investment in these expensive Peco machines.
Ed,
While you are installing the switch machine you may want to consider the Peco accessory switch, PL-13, which glues to the bottom of the switch machine. With this you can operate signals or a bi-color led on your control panel so you will know how the turnout is thrown.
Happy Railroading
Bob
Bob, that was going to be my next Q - how to light an led with a twin coil - I figured I needed another set of contacts, and I didn’t know about the PL-13 - thank you for reading my mind.
Mr. B, I will be using a CD unit - do you run yours on DC? 12 volts?
Ed
About that. As I recall, I took the AC off of an old power pack and ran it through a rectifier bridge.
Ed,
I’m using a transformer for my power but I believe most would use a different source.The Peco swithch machine requires AC current @ around 16 volts and the LEDs DC current. Not having heard of a rectifier I wired the the transformer to a terminal strip and then from there to the CDU. The machines are operating ok.
At first my red led was much brighter than the green. Upon advice from the forum I added a 1000 ohm resistor to the red and mistakenly a 100 ohm to the green but they are lighting fine.
I started with the DC power @ zero and slowly turned up the power to were the LEDs looked good but not too btight, I’ve taped the control so I don’t accidently turn it up and pop the leds.
Hope this helps.
Happy Railroading
Bob