I started using peco switches on my layout because I was attracted to the way the mechanism clicked positive when the switch was thrown. Lately I’ve had some of these mechanisms fail to transmit current through the point rail ( these are the insulfrog variety ). Has anybody else had this problem? Better yet, does anybody know how to cure it?
There are metal blade-type wipers under there, and I’m afraid they are somewhat hit and miss. If you have intermittent power transmission, and can lift the turnout relatively easily, you can attempt to clean and to restore the contact, pressure-wise, between the two metal surfaces.
However, most of us would say to forget that short-term measure and just solder a single thin filament of wire between the stock rail and the butt of the point rail. Get it over with once and for all. Let’s face it, if the point tip held tightly against the stock rail by the over-centre spring isn’t doing it, and the wiper below the point blade isn’t doing it…what’s left? Discard the entire appliance? Solder a wire and positively run around the defect in materials and design?
Crandell
Hi Jim,
Crandell’s cracked it with a jumper lead, sounds like a dry joint on the link wire under the frog. Also I’d give riveted fish-plate a squeeze gently, I had a Y that kept failing.
I’ve used Peco (N & HO, all codes) since way back and stopped using insul frog switches for electro frogs very early on as the plastic frog points wear a bit and and can cause problems.
The tabs on 100s help with continuity. With code 75 (HO), 83 & 55(N) I back fead using a motor switch from the far side of the frog because of the small contact surface, hope this helps.
Be in touch.
pick
The newer Peco HO scale turnouts have a different scheme for transmitting power to the point rails – instead of the small tab that is supposed to make contact with the stock rail, they are now using a black wire embedded in the top of a crosstie on which the point rail slides.
Whether this is going to be any better over the long term is unknown. I have learned to solder a jumper wire between the stock and point rails as mentioned by Crandell and avoid any future problems. It’s much easier to solder the jumper wires before a turnout is installed than after the fact.
If you do solder the jumper wires onto the turnout, though, you must use insulated rail joiners on both rails that diverge from the frog and use separate feeders beyond the frog, because the turnout will no longer be “power routing”.
Only on curve Peco turnouts that i have that problem with.
I noticed that problem recently on one of my PECO turnouts. I used a little cleaner on a rag and cleaned off the rails - particularly the moving point outside edge and fixed rail inside edge where they contact.
Seems to have fixed the problem for now.
Guys,
Thanks for analyzing Jim’s problem and offering a solution.
I hope this isn’t a far fetched request, but if you’ve done this to your Peco turnouts, could you please post a photo of it? I’m always cautious when it comes to electrical issues so photo / illustrations, imho, are good reference resources that compliment the written solution.
Thank you and High Greens [8D]
Thanks for the comebacks, guys. I’m going to get out the ol’ test leads and start working on hot wiring around the points if swabbing out the switch with cleaning solution doesn’t work.
AntonioFP45
Here are a couple of websites with information about wiring Electrofrog turnouts:
This one has a ton of information so you will have to sort through it a bit.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/sw_ctl.htm
This one has some very simple diagrams which may explain it better.
http://www.proto87.com/turnout-wiring-for-DCC.html
Dave
i have about 100 switches on my layout and most of them have been in service for 10-12 years. all are code 100 and half are shinohara and half are peco. all are hand thrown and i have never had an electrical failure that a bit of cleaning wouldn’t cure. a wipe between the point and stock rails followed with a touch of contact enhancer keeps everything up to par.
could it be that you have a later design that differs from my 10 year old ones?
charlie
Guys, your suggestions were very encouraging. I finally applied Crandell’s solution and it worked fine, especially since the switch was the insulfrog variety. Fortunately I didn’t have to lift the switch which would have been awkward since it was in the middle of a ladder. I just drilled two holes and looped a wire from the rail joiner on the point rail side to the point rail just behind the hinge. A couple of other switches that were balky responded to cleaning and treating with Rail Zip, an electrical contact enhancer that looks suspiciously like automatic transmission fluid. I’m really pleased to know there’s a practical method to restore Peco switches go bad!
My current Santa Fe in Oklahoma started construction in the early/mid 80’s when code 100 was still the standard, and I settled on Peco as my switch of choice. I have around 300 Peco’s on the layout, mixed in with about 10 scratchbuilt switches (NMRA achievement program) and very seldom do I have a failure. I keep a supply of Peco’s on hand for replacements but have had to do very few replacements over the years. When faced with the question of converting all track and switches to code 83 as a standard, I decided it wasn’t worth the effort and stayed code 100. if any of my visitors have been offended by this, I haven’t heart it. On the handthrown ones I did a little wiring extra when needed, but have found before an op session taking some track cleaner on swabs keep things operating very well.
I will add a caveat that my basement is all finished, ceiling, walls and floor, and I keep temps and humidity the same year round which I think helps greatly keeping the railroad running. I also have replaced pecos when they do go bad and can’t be resurrected, but that is not the norm.
In short, every basement/trainroom/garage/extra room have their drawbacks and the secret of excellent model railroading is the finished room and good maintentance. Any one who thinks otherwise is always welcome to visit,but you pay your own way.
Bob
Thank you Dave!
That information is helpful. [Y][8D]