When I was planning my layout I did so using the Peco small switches which worked out very well.I want to use Caboose Industries ground throws but two of the switches are in tight areas. What I would like to know is this- on the Peco switch does it matter on which side the ground throw is mounted? If this is not possible does anyone know of another way to manually throw those two switches? Would a wire running to the switch work,pulling or pushing the wire to throw the switch? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Bob
I have a large amount of Peco switches. On those I throw manually I don’t use any switch throw. The Peco has a spring in the point area (under a piece of plastic) and they hold tight. I have switches that have been in place close to 20 years, and they have not lost their spring.
If a spring does fail, it is easy to replace. Actually I think they look better without than using those overside ground throws.
The ones with Tortoise on them have the spring removed.
Bob
No, it makes NO difference which side the ground throw is mounted on.
I use both Peco turnouts and Caboose ground throws and have done just as you ask, because of a lack of space when turnouts are placed in close proximity.
I also have a few turnouts that are farther back (away from the fascia and close to the backdrop). These are switched with a piano wire running through a plastic tube. The tube is embedded "just’ below the surface detailing / scenicing / landscaping in a small, shallow trench cut into the foam base. This tube runs the distance to and through the fascia, with the wire extending just beyond the fascia. Once the wire is cut to fit (the turnout thrown to the far rail) the wire is cut to length to accommodate a small wooden knob, which is glued on. With the turnout positioned on the far rail, the knob is tight against the fascia and with the turnout positioned against the near rail, the knob stands slightly away from the fascia. With the “throw” being only a fraction of an inch, I haven’t encountered any problems…Yet!
Pastor Bob is correct in not having a need for a ground throw…I use them for ease of seeing the position of the turnout. And that spring is really a great feature when I do use the wire positivly holding the chosen position!
It does not matter wich side you mount the ground throw.
If you like you can mount the ground thow and run a wire to the turnout. I did this in my yard as I did not want operators to reach over trains to throw a switch. I was able to run my wire under the track between ties, but be carefull not to rmove all the spacer material between the ties or you could cause a short.
Thanks for the replies. Some good info. Would it be possible for one of you to possibly provide a pic or two showing ground throw connection and the piano wire connection? Thanks Bob
Peco switch machines (the electric kind) work very well. If you do have “access challenges” for your turnouts, you might consider using remote throws like this as an alternative to ground throws. Of course, you can get the same results with stiff wire or sheathed cables, but if they turn out to be awkward (benchwork geometry, or whatever) then the Peco twin-coils are an option.
Reaching over and between scenery is something to be avoided.
Thanks Mr.B- lots of choices.I will probably wait until I star laying track to figure out what i’m going to do.I may beable to figure something out. Thanks again-Bob
The Longview Kelso & Rainier Ry uses Peco switches. All the switches in the yard are hand thrown and there is no ground throws or any other switch stands used. The Peco locking device works just fine. There are also some switches on the main line that are electrically thrown using Peco switch motors.
The Branch line is code 83 Atlas with Walthers/Shinohara switches and all are hand thrown and have Caboose Industries switch stands.
The layout here has Atlas Custom line switches and Caboose Industries ground throws for “N” scale. This works OK if the ground throws are carefully installed. I used the “N” scale throws as they were smaller. If I were to do it again I would use Peco switches.
Thanks MR.SP-If I understand you correctly,with the Peco switches I don’t need ground throws,I just move them by hand? If I were to choose to use them would you choose sprung or regular throws? Thanks Bob
The sprung ground throws are more forgiving and are great for Atlas tunouts. I remove the spring in the Pecos when I use the Tortoise but keep it in for the ground throws.
FoulRift:
I see nobody posted any pictures…So I’ll try. I, by no means have a photo tutorial on this topic, but will put together what I do have, in hopes that it will help with your project.
First: The Caboose Industries ground throw is a very simple and straight forward installation. Once you have all the elevations correct (regarding the track, turnout and ground throw), center the point and stock rails, center the ground throw and secure everything in place. On my road, I also paint the lever paddle to indicate diverging (red) or through routes (green) for ease of identification and operation.
The remote “wire operated” turnout isn’t all that hard to do…At least in my case with the use of extruded foam as my base. I cut a trench in the foam deep enough to accept a length of tubing with my hot- wire tool. Then a plastic tube, with the wire inside (already bent with a 90 at the business end), is secured into the trench with the vertical end of the wire inserted, from below, into a hole on the throw bar of the turnout. This does take some adjusting to be sure the wire stays in the proper position. It should be mentioned, that the tubing should be of a less flexible, thicker, heavier walled verity if turns are to made in it’s route. This heavier style seems to be much more slippery on the inside, thus less friction on the wire and much easier movement. The tube extends to flush with a fascia with the wire extending beyond. With the turnout positioned to the far rail (the rail farthest from the fascia) the wire is cut to a length to accommodate a knob. The turnout is then thrown to position on the near rail and the knob is glued on. In this scenario; with the turnout positioned to the far rail, the knob is flush with the fascia and when positioned to the near rail the knob stands slightly away from the fascia.
I’m having some shorting problems with Peco turnouts. I use DCC. Do they need gaps and if so where. A diagram would be very useful! As it is ,I took them out for now,replaced with Atlas and no more shorts.
Terry
JB- those pics answer a lot of questions.Seeing that I am probably going to lay the track directly on plywood I’ll probably opt for putting the ground throws on the opposite side of the points where there is more room and if this doesn’t work I’ll put them a little farther away and run wire to the switch.I understand the Peco swirches are sprung so could I get away with a non-sprung switch stand and could N scale stands be used because the HO ones are so big? Thanks Bob
Terry, are your Peco turnouts of the electro-frog or insolated frog style?
All of mine (I have a few Atlas too) are of an insolated frog verity so I can’t comment on the “electro” version. But, I have to say that I have never had a major problem. Yes, I do have a short every now and again, but because it is so seldom, I chalk that up to wheel sets and / or trucks that may not be gauged properly.
You shouldn’t have to cut gaps or anything so drastic…I wouldn’t think. Perhaps a bit of nail polish on a rail where you can see a wheel making contact though.
BTW and for ever it may be worth. I have heard that electric and insolated frog turnouts both work with DCC and I think there has been some debate regarding one over the other. However, many years ago now, Loy Sperlock (sp?) of Loy’s Toys recommended to me to use the insolated frog with my then new Digitrax BigBoy. I took his advice and as already stated I really don’t have any problems.
Thanks, JB. I got them used online. They do have wires under the frog.I had’m end toend on a passing siding,could that be my short if they weren’t lined the same?
Terry
Definitely. Switches with frogs facing each other (e.g.: passing siding) should have both frog rails gapped near the frog, and separate feeders to the rails between. This is true in DC and DCC systems…
Thanks,Gary. I won’t toss’em yet then!!!
Terry
Bob
The Peco switches have a locking mechanism in them so a Switchstand/Ground throw isn’t needed to hold the points where you want them. Walthers/Shinohara, Atlas and others require something to keep the points from moving under a train.
regarding shorts in peco points using dc i did not notice any shorts however when i changed to dcc i noticed that the sound locos would loose their sound and switch the sound back on again looking carefully i noticed a small spark when the wheels were run verrrry slowly thru the switch there was a large spark … i use an 8 amp system… i put plastic shims onto the side of the check rails this moves the wheels further away from the frog … no more shorts … hope this helps