Tortise switch machines are designed to operate slowly - about 3 seconds to change turnout positions. I understand that using the Tortise with turnouts other than PECO cause the points to slowly reposition when activated. PECO turnouts, however, have a spring to secure points into position. Can Tortise switch machines be used similarly with the PECO turnouts - ie. slow repositioning?
Secondly, have a 3/4 inch plywood and 1 inch foam base. Use 1/2 inch risers and cork road beds. Result is a long through for the switch machine. Have seen recommendations to use .039 spring wire instead of the .025 spring wire that was included with the Tortise switch machine along with a brass tube. Will this method operate the PECO turnouts? Any recommendations for tube size?
Don,
The Tortoise will operate the Peco turnout, just remove the spring. With about 2 1/2 " of depth from the bottom of the layout to the top of the roadbed, I think you’ll have to use a lever to activate the points, not the Tortoise directly. The “rod within a tube” is rotated by the Tortoise underneath the benchwork.
The tube can be either ahead of the points or behind the points, about 3/4" away from the points. The tube inside diameter is just a bit larger than the rod diameter. At the top of the tube, the rod is bent 90 degrees toward the points, then a small bend is made, again 90 degrees down, to fit in a hole in the connecting rod on the points. Rotating the rod should allow the points to throw completely to both stock rails. Underneath the benchwork, bend the rod about 90 degrees and then put a loop in the rod (bend it back on itself to make a tight U shape. Mount the Tortoise such that the center of the Tortoise throw is at the center of the rod’s travel. The Tortoise should be able to activate the turnout completely from one side to the other. I’ve mounted Switchmaster motors this way; the Tortoise should work with a little tweaking.
Mark C.
I’ve read of a couple of methods to get the Tortoise to work with Peco turnouts. I have not yet gotten to the stage of installing switch machines, so I can’t say I’ve tried any of them.
Two links that talk about the subject are:
http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/tortoise/tort-with-peco.htm
http://loystoys.com/peco/about-turnouts.html
Tony’s claims that using a .032 wire will work between a Tortoise and Peco, but how that compounds given the length of the wire you need is a good question. They also see no problem with just removing the spring out of the turnout. Loy’s advocates modifying (stretching) the spring in the turnout a little to make it less stiff. They see the spring as a major advantage, since it holds the points steady.
Sooner or later, I will be doing the same thing, and I haven’t decided which way to go.
Mark S.
With the proper wire, the Tortoise can easily move the Peco, spring or no spring. The real reason for removing the spring is so that the points and the machine move together - with the spring, the Tortoise will move until there is sufficient tension to overcome the spring and the points will snap over - kind of defeats the purpose of the slow motion action. Plus, if you are using the Tortoise contacts to power the frogs, the Tortoise contacts will switch while the spring is still holding the points in the former position, which is instant short circuit.
I haven’t used them, but I understand newer Peco turnouts have a tab of some sorts that you can slide to disengage the spring, no need to dismantle the throwbar mechanism and/or permanently alter the turnout.
–Randy
Don and Mark,
I recently learned that you do not have to remove the spring. The little plastic cover over it slides back and forth, parallel to the rails. One way and the spring is activated, the other direction the spring is (mostly) de-activated. I don’t know if Peco’s were always like this but the couple I’ve tried since finding this out work this way.
2 questions were can i get a tortise switch macene abd how nuch would it cost