I am going to use PL300 to fasten my 1" extruded foam to my 1/2" plywood layout top. The foam is warped a bit and I will need weight along the entire 2’ X 8’ area. To facilitate curing and best adhesion, what pattern of adhesive should I use? “S” es or straight lines? How close together? Do I spread the line with a putty knife or leave it in a bead?
Any ideas that you have will be greatly appreciated.
Bruce,
Do it in ess-patterns approximately 1’ wide and leave it as a bead. Once you apply the bead to the top of the foam, the weight you put on top (bricks are often handy) will flatten the bead out. Let it cure for 24-hours before removing the weight.
Tom
To add, Bruce, if you can locate the high spots that are of particular concern to you once you lay the foam atop the plywood, there is where you would place a dollop of the goop so that when your stacks of magazines or whatever, soup tins, press down there you’ll be assured of a retentive gob of adhesive to keep that spot tight to the plywood. Otherwise, I found a sinuous S pattern with 5-7" from crest to crest works, and repeat ‘spoon fashion’ with the next bead so that the crests form a line across the plywood. I would have no more than about 5" between the snakes of adhesive.
-Crandell
Gluing foam to wood is best for adhesion as the moisture in the glue will be absorbed into the wood allowing for quick drying. Weighting down the foam will keep it flat. I go an extra step, using drywall screws and fender washers to secure the foam to the wood. Countersink the washer/screw and you can pave over them with the adhesive. I use modular construction so the screws add to the strength.
Back when I glued mine down with PL300, the directions said to press the foam in to place and then lift it off to vent for a few minutes and then push back in to place. When I tried to pull the foam off to vent, like the directions said to do. No way, no how was the foam coming off. So as a word of advise, I would make sure the foam is in the right spot before pushing down in to place.
Good luck.
That’s why I like (and prefer) the DAP Alex Plus Latex caulk. It gives you about 45 minutes of working time for adjustments before it begins to set up. Very handy when laying track. Works great on foam board, too.
Tom
I used Holland Pavers, available at home centers. They’re heavy, dense around half a buck each and a dozen should do it.
PS if you can I glued the sections in the garage and stacked them up on the floor to dry with the bricks on top 4 at a time (most were 4’x5’).
Don’t forget, He is in a wheel chair.
Cheers, [D]
Frank
Doesn’t say in the op, besides getting help from others, I wouldn’t assume that a person in a wheelchair couldn’t do anything that I can do.
Didn’t mean,to get you upset,but in his beginning posts,He did mention it… You can also check his BIO,He explains His limitations. Just trying to be helpful.[:)]
Cheers, [D]
Frank