I’ve been in the hobby for over 25 years, having done two layouts in HO scale. I’m currently dismantling my 18-year old 4x12’ HO layout and converting it to a 4x8’ N scale layout (reusing the benchwork frames).
I tend to drift into and out of the hobby, and a lot has changed since I’ve been heavily into it. Now that I’ve drawn up the basic plan for my first N scale layout (which is roughly based on my previous HO layout, just with wider scale radius curves :)), I’d like to do the benchwork right. I have some over and under sections and about half of the layout will be comprised of (roling) hills. I seem to have 3 options:
Conventional plywood subroadbed with wood risers from the benchwork crossbraces and hollow plaster hills.
Advantage: Most layouts seem to have this, it’s tried-and-true.
Disadvantage: A lot of sawing and cutting, plus this is N scale so playwood might be overkill in terms of support.
Same as above but with a thinner hardboard (masonite) subroadbed.
Advantage: easier to cut
Disadvantage: Is the support strong enough?
Extruded styrofoam subroadbed + woodland scenics foam risers + foam hills
Advantage: No sawing, lighter
Disadvantage: Foam is EXPENSIVE (They don’t sell extruded foam boards here at the Home Depot in the Los Angeles area (they do have the white styrofoam stuff, which I heard is a no-no) but I did find a store nearby which specializes in foam everything and they had extruded foam (blue) in all sorts of thicknesses…but their 2x8 sheet was…$60!!! Yikes…). Also, I’d like to use under-the-table switch machines and I guess this might be difficult.
Due to cost and availability of material, I would go with the plywood. I know how to work it, so I would stick to what I know best. I used plywood for the HO layout I’m currently working on and I’ll use it for the next one, whenever that may be.
I still do HO, but I used risers from L girders with plywood sub bed for the mountain regions. I used stacked foam inbetween for mountains. For flat areas, I used 2 inch foam for the table and sub bed.
I was able to find foam scraps at construction sites, but I understand that is more difficult in Cal.
I have just recently gotten back into it after a 15 year hiatas. I too had switched from HO to N Scale. I had to make the same decision and I ultimately opted for a piece of 4’x8’x2" pink foam board over a L-Girder frame. At first I was hesitant and couldn’t get things done the way that I wanted too. I was not really to happy with a 4’x8’ but I figured I would try it out before I got into something much larger.
Then I went and saw a demonstration of a hot wire foam cutter over @ the train show in Timonium, MD. I bought one of those things and it has taken my modeling to a new level. Although the foam is more expensive, I think that you wind up using less in the over all scheme of things.
Actually I found another local foam distributor that sells 2x8’ 2" foam sheets for $29, still pricey but way more affordable. How much are you guys paying for your foam out there?
Well, don’t worry about the under table switch machines. Just use the tortoise with a longer wire made from .039 piano wire instead of the stock .025 stuff (which will be too short anyway). It will work fine.
If 2" foam is that expensive have you considered 1" thickness?
Cutting masonite will dull your steel blades very quickly so be sure to use carbide tipped versions. It really won’t be stronger than plywood although it is smoother than construction grade ply. I would use 3/8" or 1/2" plywood with girders 16" or so on center.