I just finished a display case that uses Plexiglas for the shelves and I got to thinking… could there be any chemical interaction between the Plexiglas and my loco and car wheels (metal or plastic).
Does anyone know of issues concerning this? Boy I hope not, I put in about 50 bucks so far. I guess I could line the shelves with something too.?
Thanks.
Peter
Hi Peter,
I made a display case for some of my trains more than 10 years ago. The doors on the front are plexiglass. The trains sit on flex-track that itself sets on wood shelves. I’ve had absolutely no problems. The only thing I would caution about is to be careful about any exposure to direct sunlight. I doubt the plexiglass screens it out.
But it sounds like your case is entirely plexiglass, even the shelves, and the trains sit directly on the shelves. Assuming you left a little clearance, you can always use some flex-track underneath, too, to get the wheels up off the plexiglass. It also makes your trains look at least a little like they are in a more natural environment, IMHO.
As for plastic wheels in general, about the only thing I would use them for is to put something on display. Everything that I operate is checked to be certain it has metal wheels before it hits the tracks on my layout. It does make a difference, in both cutting down on the cleaning needed and reliable operation.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Ah, yet another use for that old brass track! Let’s see, that makes what, two uses?
Mister Beasley, what is the other use? I’ve been wracking my brain trying to thinkl of it.
Tom
[:o)]
Thanks mlehman for the track idea… I didn’t even think of that.
Peter
You guys are slipping, [;)] I know of 3 uses for brass track:
Non-powered track for setting coupler height.
Separate the ties and rails and use them for scenery.
Display track that Mister Beasley mentioned.
Jim
One problem my brother had was paint peeling off some toy soldiers he had in a display cabinet. We think it was outgassing from the wood finish and not the plexiglass front. Venting the case by slightly opening the top lid solved the problem.
Enjoy
Paul
Now that DCC is here, we must be aware of static electricity being generated by the plexi and destroying decoders!
BB
Plexi will crack over time from exposure to UV. Also Plexi will cloud when contact is made with certain chemicals, grease or oils.
As long as the wheels are clean and dry there shouldn’t be any problem at all. It’ll scratch easily, so be careful putting trains on it, then it won’t “fog” which mainly comes from micro-scratches.
Greg
When I was first designing my layout, I took all my old brass and layed it out for a 1:1 model of the track plan. Faster than cutting out paper templates. I ended up re-orienting my yard a bit as a result of actually seeing it on the floor rather than on the computer.
Very good point indeed. While I was making the case and cutting the plexi, the static was so bad I had trouble getting the protective plastic covering off the glass. It kept being attracted back to it. I wonder if I should attach a grounding lead to all the plexiglas surfaces… hmmm.
Thanks for all the good points guys!’
Peter
Hey guys, What do you think is the best(easiest) method for cutting plexi? I have had good results with the scribing method. All that was needed was a sharp awl and some good old elbow grease. If scribed properly (10-15 passes with the awl) all that remains is a little smoothing of the edges with various grits of sandpaper.
Peter, the only way I know of to reduce the static on plexi is to spray it with anti static spray used on CRTs etc.
Mearly attaching a wire to the case is useless as it is a good insulator. Now that I think of it, I heard somewhere that rubbing the glass with a clothes dryer softener sheet works as well.
BB
Didn’t think of putting trains on train track…Hmmmm…[D)]
(Sorry…I couldn’t let that one pass[:o)])
I just used my table and radial arm saw with fine cutting blades. Worked fine for me.
Peter
Brass flex track makes an excellant back scratcher!!![:D]
nice pic
That’s the other use I was looking for!!! [:D]
Tom
A table saw will cut plexi if you use a few precautions.
Use a narrow or zero clearance insert.
Use a plywood (80-100 tooth) blade.
Sometimes it helps to REVERSE the blade (cut with the back of the teeth) because this lessens the kickback. This works for aluminum too with a carbide blade.
Use a slow feed rate and stop immediately if the blade gets warm and the plexi starts to melt along the cut line. If it does melt. you can break off the lumps later and touch up with a file.
Do not try to cut tiny pieces, plexiglas likes to kick and you need to keep fingers far away from the blade.
Scoring and snapping is a good technique if you are not absolutely comfortable with the power tool route, just score many times and use a good straightedge.