For those like me who don’t have a local hobby shop. My only choices for model RR supplies are either to drive 1 1/2hrs to Kansas City, which is not feasible for me because I have a full-time job, or via mail order. Anyhow, I’ve been experimenting with Brasso metal polish on some old track sections. It seems to work well without a whole lot of effort and can be obtaned almost anywhere. I got mine at an area Ace Hardware for lessthan $4.00 for an 8oz bottle. Has anyone else tried this product? Am I on to something, or am I barking up the wrong tree? Questions and comments welcome.
Mineral Spirits… a GREAT track cleaner. It won’t leave an oily residue to attract dirt. Unlike alcohol, it won’t leave the track bone dry that will cause small pits from training arching (run your trains in the dark and see) where dirt will pile up.
I did this right before I used No Ox (google it for train applications) and I haven’t had to clean my track in over a year!
ratled
pmsrr
When I first began using Metal Polish to clean my track - I looked at using Brasso - BUT
I remembered that (from too many years ago in the Army) that Brasso seemed to leave an OIL finish on the metal surface (as it was claening BRASS and we all know how fast it will tarnish.
So I stayed away from that.
I now use Blue Magic (liquid) or Mothers Mag Wheel Polish (paste) and they both work well.
When I first metal polished my track it was 5 years until I had to clean my track again - and this was a siginificant acomplishment as I have over 3300 feet ot track to clean - so
having to clean track IS a MAJOR PROJECT !
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Why dont you cut a piece of hardboard like Masonite. Just run it over the track and it will clean it good. Matter of fact you could use a pink block pencil eraser. Thats how I always cleaned my H.O. slot car track. Kevin
Kevin
While that may work well on the main lines
How do you do the sidings ???
With 3300 feet of track - and only 1000ft of it main line - that leaves a lot of sidings/industrial tracks that do not get cleaned and it is really hard to get a track drag to the ends of each and every spur!
My layout is no roundy round - we have operations twice a month with 15 to 20 operators - SO
Having the equipment run is mandatory!
I tried the track drags - fluid type cars - rollers and had to run them evertime I had an OPs session!
So I was spending more time cleaning than Operating!
I thought that uisng MetalPolish would be a joke - just as using Wahl Hir Clipper oil - WD-40 - ATF fluid - Laquer Thinner - and any other type of fluid that has been recommended here and many other forums!
While they all worked - the ONE THING that has to be done is continually using them over and over -
Like we are Addicted to Cleaning Track - I NEED to clean the track - or I have MORE FUN running my track cleaners than running the trains! 
I tried the Metal Polish and I was impressed - to say the least!
After 5 years the track still did not have to be cleaned - YES that is 5 years and I was running 30 to 40 some trains in an Operating session - twice a month!
No stalling at turnouts - nothing - sound engines always ran great with NO sound drop-outs!
I still have to occasionally clean the engine wheels but that is only monthly (instead of nightly - before the Metal Polis treatment)!
But then again some really like to do track cleaning!
Again YMMV
BOB H - Clarion, PA
A little work up front will make the cleaning job in the long run a lot easier.
First clean the track with denatured Alcohol
Second use 600 grit sand paper to get the pits out of the rail tops.
After that just wipe the rails with denatured alcohol periodically and you’ll be set.
If you want even more trouble free track, look up the process called gleaming. Basically after using the 600 grit sandpaper you take a stainless steel washer and rub the top of the rails until it shines. Then you use metal polish. After that the track will rarely need anything more than a quick rub or alcohol wipe.
I’m seeing a lot of great track cleaning tips in this thread! Thanks for the replies, everyone and thanks for the heads up on the oily residue from the Brasso. Good thing I experimented with scrap track, eh? I forgot to mention that I did buy a pink block eraser like was suggested and got decent results from it. I’ll keep it handy for future use and try the other tips that I read here. Thanks again and happy New Years.
I have gleamed all the track on my layout.
Now I just use a rag dipped in denatured alcohol every month or so for a quick wipe-down.
I to use denatured alcohol. The only trouble I have is findinig a cloth that doesn’t leave lint behind. Some suggestion would be nice. last cloth I use I spent close to a hour picking it out of the drive trucks.
I found that cleaning cloth found at Automobile supply shops work great. Lint free and nice and soft.
I’ve only heard the alcohol causes sparking/pitting once before. Is this common? An urban myth?
Are you saying that track needs to have some oil or polish on it in order to prevent any sparking?
What does the bone dryness have to do with things?
Thanks.
The polish is used at the end of the gleam method to remove the small scratches left over. The smoother the rail the better. Pitts and scratches give dirt a place to hold on and for arching to occur.
First things first…… track cleaning a personal preference thing and will probably start a LTS fight or two over which way is best. Probably the “best” thing is try several ways and see what works for you.
Having said that, on to your questions –
The problem with oils are they are too “wet” and leave a “wet” residue on the tracks which dust and dirt cling to… just what you are trying to un do in the first place. Just my 2 cents anyway as I know some folks love their oils for track cleaning.
I don’t think there is anything you can do to prevent sparking. I think it’s just minimizing it. The better the electrical contact the less chance of arching. When there is arching, pitting begins in the rails. Pitting produces stuff that becomes that black gunk and puts small spots in the track where dirt and grim will build up… just what you are trying to un do in the first place. Bone dry is a condition that is good for arching. I did find the residue left by the mineral spirits were dry to the touch and acted more like a wax and made better electrical contact. Dirty track lends itself to arching, making the track even dirtier. I got the mineral spirits method from a post from a Joe Fugate post several
Thanks ratled! Joe is local (regional) to us and I’ve spoken with him a couple of times so I’ll bet he mentioned it. Thanks for the links. I’ll rethink my use of alcohol now. I was happy with it but then I’m just testing freshly laid track at this point. I’ll see if mineral spirits and no ox have scents that’ll “hit” me in my windowless train room. (Migrainer, unfortunately.) Thanks again for the long answer. I tend to give long answers too.[:D]
Ratled,
Read on the Sanchem site you linked to that RWC used No-Ox on turnout points. Have you ever tried it on the wheel surface where the loco electrical contacts rub?
Thanks for the great info.
Dave
Hey Dave, no I haven’t tried it there. Might be worth it though.
ratled
Ratled
I have a small tube of De-Ox which is required where aluminum electric cables are clamped into electrical panels. Any idea if it does the same thing to rails as No-Ox?
Thanks again,
Dave
I don’t know if they are the same thing. Every time I have heard of something else being use that “is just like No Ox” the results were not good. As cheap and easy to get as No Ox is, and expensive as locos are getting, I don’t think it’s worth it.
ratled
Where do you find No Ox? I am in the process of gleaming my layout, but if this works just as well without the effort, Im in.
Walther’s sells it http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/171-226
You can get it from the manufacturer http://sanchem.com/ox.html
And there are a few who sell it on that auction site. Little tubes big enough for most layouts for about $3.00 delivered
ratled