Hi guys, I’ve recently taken an interest in the old O-gauge trains from AF and Marx after working on restoring my grandpa’s old pre-war trains. We originally had two AF engines: the Royal Blue 566 4-6-2 and the Nickle Plate 0-8-0. Of the two, the 4-6-2 is the only full engine I have left, and all I’ve got of the 0-8-0 is the tender (which is missing three axles). I’ve been trying to find information on the 0-8-0, like how long were they made and how common were they, but Google can’t seem to find the tinyest little bit of info on them. The post-war S gauge ones are easy, but it’s almost like the pre-war O ones never existed. Does anyone over here know anything about them?
One of the AF guys will correct me if I am wrong, but the prewar 0-8-0 with cab number 574 or 575 was made in 1941 -2 only and is probably the toughest of the prewar O gage 3/16’s scale engines to locate in runable condition. I only see them on ebay every once in a while. I see many more 572 challengers, hudsons, and pacifics.
How is the tender, look closely at the shell casting to see if you see tiny cracks across the surface. If its still in good shape, it should last. Fo all these engines, the differences from S to O were in the width of the frame, steam chest and wheels. Even the siderods are pretty much the same. Usually the eccentric rod front link is bent differently from S to O due to the wheel width and consequent difference in valve gear width. You can purchase repro O wheels, steamchest and side rods, but the frame would be tough. Now you might be able to really cheat by using O guage wheels on an S guage narrow frame with the longer O axles with spacers for the wheels. I think the axle dia’s are different so keep that in mind. I think it could be done, but it would not be cheap. Probably cheaper than finding a real one though.
I really like the Royal Blues, I’ve had two O gage ones and wish I had not sold the nice one. That is probably the one sale I regret.
ogauge, thanks for your reply.[:D] I had a feeling the 0-8-0s were pretty rare, but now that I know the cab number it may make them easier to locate.
The tender shell and frame castings are actually in pretty good condition. The paint is peeled and chipped off almost completely, and the trucks have minor rust, but nothings falling apart (except the screw holes in the shell), and it still has the original reverse light bulb (which I think still works). It’s pretty surprising really, because all the old freight cars, tenders, track, etc. were stored in damp attics and basements for years at a time.
If I can’t find a repairable original for a decent price, I may look into converting an S gauge one like you mentioned if I really want one that bad.
I really like the Royal Blue too.[:D] I just wish I could have gotten the proper yellow lettering and silver numbering for when I restored mine, but I guess the later S gauge white 350 lettering is good enough.
[:D][:D][:D]
(I accidentily had the valve gears switched around when this picture was taken. They’re fixed now)
Try Leventons supply (may have spelled it wrong) out of Wa state for real decals, he used to offer all the various water slide decals for all the cars and the royal blue. He is also the one I used to get lead and trailing trucks, boiler fronts and the like from. Of course there are others to get this stuff from, he is just who I am familair with. I think the other steamer numbers were sold as dry transfers.
Thats a nice looking royal blue[:D] It needs some passenger cars!
I don’t have much of my prewar 3/16’s stuff left.
806 challenger less tender - have a hudson tender for now
559 K-5 and 558 tender with four green sheet metal pass cars, 492,95,96,97
Thats it!
It was a 1941 only item and according to the Greenberg book none of the surviving pieces operate properly. Many years ago the TTOS journal published a series of interviews with one of the lead engineers in the Gilbert plant. It was mentioned that there were only a couple of batches of parts made and most of them suffered from zinc contamination. The end result is what you have observed. I’ve seen the still solid remains of parts and pieces of the switcher over the years but I’ve never seen a completely intact switcher in running condition. I do have a friend who had the good fortune of finding one with an intact boiler and tender but with a crumbling frame and wheel set. He machined a new frame out of brass, installed bronze bushings, cast new wheel centers from brass, and made his own stainless steel tire rims. His was the only operational 0-8-0 I’ve seen but, it had been extensively shopped.
CTT did a story on Prewar AF a few years ago. I’ll see if I can find it. I’d contact CTT about a back issue. If I remember correctly, the 0-8-0 was one of the engines that suffered from metal deteroiation.
found it, Sepetember 2000.
The #574 Nickel Plate 0-8-0 was made 1941-42.
Wow, I didn’t know the problems were that bad![:O] I think I’ll let this one go, knowing how hard it would be just to find a decent one, and then get it running. Thanks everyone for all the info you provided![:D]