When I got this engine, the frame was broken in three places and warped. The wheels exhibited the usual zinc pest deterioration, the steam chest was too badly warped to use, and the flags were missing. But the motor ran very well, and the tender was just fine. It came with some replacement wheels, but one of them had the rod screw hole boogered up. I obtained an MTH recast frame, additional wheels, a used steam chest in better (but not perfect) condition, and the flags, and here she is. She runs great, pulls hard, and doesn’t look too bad (I did manage to match the frame color pretty well when I painted it).
This is currently my only SG/WG steamer. I hope someday to have both an IVES and a Flyer steamer, too.
I was just going to say - that looks really straight! I have one that has a quite noticeable bow to it. I imagine one day it will consist of a front half and rear half.
So, in another thread, I posted a pic (a kind of teaser) of a #437 Switch Tower. I had to repaint it. It came to me disassembled and partially stripped of paint. No rust to speak of, and it was complete (except for the light bracket), but it needed love badly. Here’s a handful of views after the fact.
I left the lithographed chimney alone. I added two switch controllers; someday I’ll add two more. I have cobbled together a light bracket for it. You can see it lit this past Christmas here:
Wow, that looks like a switch tower that actually functions as one. I understand that the two upper switches on the back of the tower are switch (turnout?) controllers. Do you push the lever hanging down from the center to the left or right make a contact that sets the switch/turnout position? What is the function(s) of the row of switches along the bottom of the tower?
You have it correct on the switch controllers, MidlandMike.
The bottom row of SPST switches can be wired to provide power to blocks of track, spurs and sidings, and essentially whatever else needs low voltage power on the pike. Some versions of the #438 Switch Tower, which is smaller, have two such switches, and the #439 and #440C Control Panels offer either 6 or 4 (respectively) more of those switches and two more Switch Controllers. The #440C also controls the signals on the #440 Signal Bridge, a huge accessory that spans two tracks. I posted a pic of my #440C 'way up in the thread, and you can make it out at the left edge of the layout pic above where I am using it to control the building and street lights.
This is the first version, maroon base, burnt orange tower, pea green tank, and brass spout. The later versions, with silver (or gray) tanks are much more common (and persist into the postwar era), but I prefer the early colors. Pardon the dusty base
Lots of folks look down upon this piece–literally–because it is so short and small, but it falls into the “Scale?-What’s-Scale?” category of prewar trains and accessories, like the bungalows and villas. If you want a scale-ish tank to go with SG/WG trains, get one made for garden trains. I used to have one for my small group of F Scale trains, and the thing was just huge! It was like having a State Set car up-ended next to the track. Impressive but impractical. Some folks use postwar #38s with SG/WG trains, and they are OK, but they are plastic and don’t fit in for me. Flyer and IVES tanks are better–and I am always on the lookout for one–but, for now, this one will keep my #384’s tender full if she stops for water every lap
While this example has both light covers, it is (I think) configured incorrectly. These covers are configured like switch lamp covers. The #76 should have all green on one side and all red on the other. It is then wired to show a red when the train is in its block and green when a train approaches and there is no train in its block. All the parts are here, and it works, but the white paint has been beaten up. It needs new wiring, too.
I am fond of the lattice-work tower accessories. They evoke a turn-of-the-20th-Century, industrial feel that fits well with SG/WG trains.
This was the first automatic operating accessory. And it was a runaway best-seller in its day, which kicked off a trend leading toward many, many more.
These come in this green-rich color scheme plus another that is based on black. But these two do have a significant difference: one has a working light in the gate where the other simply has a STOP sign. They work quite well though, after a lot of repetitions, the gates tend to not get up very high until they are allowed to relax. (Please remember that this is a family-friendly forum if you comment!) Just don’t leave the power on with a train sitting on the insulated track, or the solenoid can burn out.
and don’t fit in for me. Flyer and IVES tanks are better–and I am always on the lookout for one–but, for now, this one will keep my 
