Having never mastered the use of the airbrush, I have long relied on rattle can spray paints. Recently I have been having problems with the nozzles clogging between uses. It used to be after using a can, you could turn it upside down and press the nozzle until only air came out and that would clear the nozzle. Now, more and more companies have come out with cans that spray paint even when the can is held upside down so the old method of clearing the nozzle doesn’t work. As a result I am finding that I often have a half can or more of paint with a clogged nozzle which is quite irritating. I sometimes can find a suitable can to swap nozzles with and have had varying degrees of success in unclogging nozzles using needles and toothpicks. I find that Krylon cans are especially susceptible to this problem. Does anyone know of a trick to prevent nozzles of spray cans from clogging after use?
Been there, done that, same results. Then the wife came down with a health issue that prevents useing a rattle can anywhere within 50 feet of the house.
I got an airbrush outfit,and learned how to use it, not that hard.
Still have a dozen or more half emty cans,want them ?
I dab the opening on the nozzle with a cloth immedately after painting while the remaining paint is still wet. I have also taken to removing the nozzle from these “improved” spray cans and putting it in a closed container of mineral spirits for a day. I also take a cotton swab of mineral spirits and dab it on the verticle small tube you see when the nozzle is removed. Results are mixed but better than nothing.
When a can is kaput but the nozzle still seems OK I save the nozzles.
Dave Nelson
Same here. I wipe the tip off after each use, and hope for the best, the next time I need to use it.
I’ve never tried holding the can at other angles, I always did the upside down thing, like you did, with the older style nozzles, but it seams the “newer” style, doesn’t allow that.
I’ve never tried to take one of the newer versions off, don’t know if you can.
Having an air brush doesn’t eliminate clogged nozzles. They need a thorough cleaning after each use, as well, and can be even more finicky.
I use both on models. With the air brush, I tend to get two or three projects lined up, then paint them all.
I don’t have a booth with everything set up and ready to use, I set up a temporary booth, get the paints ready that I need, paint, and clean up.
Mike.
EDIT: Dave posted while I typed. I’ll have to try and take the nozzle off the next time. I’ve never tried it. The old style was easy.
I don’t know about other brands, but Rustoleum seems to be the main culprit. I’ve taken the nozzle off right after use and left them soaking in paint thinner overnight, too, but with mixed results. Maybe they should make new, unused nozzles available separately. I guess I answered my own question.
You might try taking it back if you bought the can at Home Depot or Lowe’s, asking for a replacement because the nozzle is clogged. They seem to have a no-questions-asked return policy.
To me, these nozzles actually are defective.
I’ve noticed that too.
I’ll try soaking in lacquer thinner.
They want to sell paint, not nozzles. Nice idea though.
Mike.
From my persepctive, it isn’t the nozzle that’s defective. It’s the design of the can that won’t allow you to clear the nozzle by spraying upside down until nothing but air comes out. Of course the result is the same. An ususable half can of paint. If I was a conspiracy theorist, I would claim they deliberately design their cans that way to force users to buy new cans of paint.
After I use one of the “any angle spray” cans I remove the nozle and spray some CRC contact cleaner through it.
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This has worked well so far.
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-Kevin
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This has been helpful. Now that I know replacement nozzles are available, I went out to Amazon and found lots of choices. This was the smallest bundle available:
I wish they gave more information so I would know what cans they are compatible with, but for 6 bucks, I’m willing to take the chance. Since I am an Amazon Prime member, I get free shipping. The other great thing about Amazon is fast delivery. I’m supposed to get delivery by Monday.
There are male and female caps.
Here are more choices
I don’t think those Montana caps will fit Rustoleum cans.
Male - female thing.
Good Luck, Ed
For What It Is Worth:
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Martin Senior paints, available from NAPA auto parts stores, are not “spray any angle” cans, and they have an excellent self-cleaning metal valve in the nozzle. They also make a fine fan spray pattern when in use.
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I have found them the second-best option to an airbrush.
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-Kevin
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I’ll have to check that out.
This thread has turned up some great info, even replacement nozzles! Nice find guys!
I use cans for many different projects besides model painting, as we all do.
Mike.
Hello All,
I too use “rattle cans” and I also have an airbrush.
Occasionally I do experience clogged nozzles on the “rattle cans”.
Using pins/needles to clear the nozzle seems to only damage them.
I have not yet needed to store nozzles in a solvent; mineral spirits, paint thinner, et al.
When preparing to paint with “rattle cans” I warm them in hot tap water using the water bath or “Ban-Marie” method.
To do this I put the can in a tall “Tupperware” type container and fill it with hot tap water.
I allow the can to soak, occasionally shaking the can to distribute the heat from the tap water evenly.
My rattle cans are stored on the back porch, which is unheated. So, I might need to refresh the hot tap water a few times to get the can and paint up to the temperature of the water bath.
Caution: DO NOT USE BOILING WATER FOR THIS!
After painting the object(s) I still turn the can upside down and try to purge the paint out of the nozzle.
Yes, I agree that most modern “rattle cans” will not clear like the older ones once did.
Then I’ll wipe the nozzle clean with a paper towel moistened with paint thinner.
I don’t know if it’s the heating of the pain in the can or the cleaning the nozzle with a thinner but I have not had as many clogged nozzles as I used to have before adopting these methods.
Hope this helps.
As long as we are talking spray paints…
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Tamiya spray paints have always been excellent when I have used them.
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The nozzles don’t look any different from cheap department store brands, but they clean out well, atomize well, and seem to produce a smooth finish.
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Unfortunately, most of the colors are flat, and I prefer a gloss finish when painting.
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-Kevin
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What I always did was use a ‘dedicated’ turkey baster. Suck up a little paint thinner, take the nozzle off the can, put the baster over the stem holding the rim against the bottom of the spray ‘head’ for seal, and squeeze the bulb until the flow runs clear. Then wipe any remaining paint off the face of the nozzle, drain any remaining solvent from the baster, and resume with just blowing air through from the “bottom” a couple of times to purge and dry the passage.
Do it outdoors over a pan or jar, of course, and wear nitrile thin gloves, etc.
Clean and keep your empty-can nozzles and you can just drop any clogged ones into a small cup of paint thinner and keep going with one of the ‘spares’. Then take all the dirties out as a ‘batch’ with the baster and sequentially do them all…
When all else fails, I use a pin vise and a small drill.
That won’t work for the newer nozzles. They have a “diffuser” directly behind the pin-hole.
I sometimes use the “turkey baster” method mentioned by Overmod except I use these very handy pipette-type
“basters” —
I find these indispensable for transfering paints and thinners in the paint shop. They reduce the possibility of spilled paint and help keep the jar lip from getting loaded with paint. They make it easy to fill the color cup on the airbrush without over filling.
Indespensable dispensers!
Cheers, Ed
A few years ago I contacted Rustoleum and they sold me a bunch of the old style(tall with the “male” connector) and the newer flat top with the female connector. The cost was pretty minimal -about ten bucks a hundred-plus shipping. Got them from their Rockford IL location. My color choices use a lot of their camoflauge colors and when one valve fails I simply replace it. Warming the paint under the hot water faucet helps-make sure it is not too warm to comfortably handle, shake well and then shake some more. A body shop friend also gives the can a few firm hits on a concrete floor to loosen any paint clogged near the pick up tube. If all else fails I use a 9mm or .44Mag universal can opener.
Mark B.