I’m having problems getting a flat, reflection-free surface on plastic or wood with matte medium. I have tried Liquitex Matte Medium, Testors’ Acryl Matte Medium, Microscale Micro Flat, Dullcoat spray, and Krylon Matte Clear. All give at best a satin finish (i.e., light reflects off it), that is quite different from the absolutely flat surface of flat hobby paint. The only success I’ve had is with Polly Scale Dust (which is of course out of production), and there I have to be careful not to leave white streaks.
In particular, I would like to use ink-alcohol solution for weathering plastic models, but often it leaves a sheen in places. I would think that covering it with a matte medium would kill the shine, but instead it leaves a satin surface.
I really don’t understand this. I would like to dull the sheen of plastic cars (e.g., Busch) for my layout scenery, but I can barely tell the difference before and after painting with matte finish.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Sandy
I’ve had pretty good luck with TCP-017 Clear Flat. It isn’t as shine free as Crafters Acrylic paint but close. It’s a bit pricy at $5.75 for a one ounce bottle.
For large jobs I use Mod Podge Clear Matte Acrylic Sealer. It is very close to Testors Dull Coat but a lot cheaper at $5.50 at Walmart for a 12 ounce spray can.
Hobby Lobby Stocks Tree House brand clear matte but I only used it once and tossed the can, it screwed up my model making the paint bleed and decals dissolve.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
Dull-Cote.
That’s what you need. I think you’re asking matte medium to do something it’s not very suited for, particularly on plastic. But “Dull-Coat” isn’t matte medium, as each are different ways of achieving a dull glare-free surface, if that’s what you’re talking about in general terms.
I generally use matte medium only where I use water-based products, mostly for scenery and to bond ballast. Dull-cote is more versatile IMO (I’m not saying better, just more compatible, as least with what I do.) It does sometimes cause issues if used as Mel mentioned, but like the Dr. on Hee-Haw used to say, “then don’t do that!”
There really is no universal dulling agent, as you need to match it to the specific materials used for best results.
Thanks, Mel. I’ll give TCP-017 Clear Flat a try. I’ve fiddled with Mod Podge Gloss for making water and waves, but not any of their sprays.
Sandy
Mike,
I’ve suspected that maybe matte medium just isn’t suitable for what I want to do. But I’ll give Dull-Coat another try. I’ve heard it’s not good to use it in high humidity, so I may have to wait till winter!
But matching the agent to the materials is something to consider!
Thanks,
Sandy
Sandy,
Yeah, if you’re in high humidity, that could affect things. This is something to consider that might help.
Was the spray can in a cool or A/C-ed space, then taken outside to spray in the humid air for ventilation reasons? Or was it able to have enough time to warm at least to the ambient outside temp before spraying? You can try warming the can in a pan of hot TAP water (i.e. do not boil something on the stove top, put it in your oven, etc that will explode - be safe). Just needs to get the temp at least as high as outside, better maybe 20 or 30 degrees higher, say 120 to 140 degrees, so something just past comfortable for your bare skin on your hand is about right.
That trick is used by propainters for getting a better finish, but it also lessens the pressure drop due to being released by the can into humid air and this can sometimes help when Dull-coting in humid air. I think what happens is much of the energy released get water absorbed into it as it cools the air, so starting the can off a little warmer may lessen the effect of this in humid air.
You could get scientific about the exact temps and RH%, but with a little practice, some test shots should start telling you whether it works today or not.
While we’re talking Dull-cote, this probably applies to many other clear coat type products, because any that rapidly cool the air like any aerolsol does will have that effect to a certain degree if it absorbs water.
I’ve had good results with D-C on acrylics, standard Rustoleum, Kyrlon, Floquil, and some I’ve probably forgotten.
The other trick is to use thin coats. I like the way D-C nozzle make a fine mist. Taken full advantage of it for best results. Some areas you’d do3 coats and be good, others maybe 6. to gt the best effects.
I’ll try to see if I can warm the can a bit. Carefully! And perhaps I’ve been using too heavy a coat with the sprays.
Thanks again,
Sandy