I already posted this on the layout forum but I thought I’d put it here to where I think it will get more eyeballs. I’ll just give the short version of the problem here. The TT will rotate a short distance and for no apparent reason just stop. These aren’t indexed stops because the Set light comes on when it makes and indexed stop. I’ve cleaned the pivot point rings and the wipers and gently pulled them up to make sure they are making good electrical contact. I had already thoroughly cleaned the ring cogs to make sure there was no debris between them. I checked the plastic motor gears that ride the cogs and pull the TT around. After one of the stops, I noticed a few small specks of debris but the problem persists and I don’t see any more debris. When it stops, it won’t respond when I reverse direction on the control unit. It just stops dead as if a circuit breaker had tripped. I don’t know even know if this has such a circuit breaker but that is the way it is acting. If anyone has any ideas, I’d be glad to hear them. I’m at a dead end.
This TT has never been a terribly reliable performer. It is very sensitive to the the slightest problem and it seems to me it could use a stronger motor. I don’t know if replacing the motor is a viable option or not. Has anyone ever tried that?
I am stymied by this development. Mine is soooo reliable…[%-)]
It must have some spurious values entered in the indexed stops list, or maybe an electrical connection separates at certain points due to misalignments in contacts…? The item must be kept very clean, and mine does except for the pit interior, which I vacuum if I have not moved the bridge inside of a few days. In fact, I have just gotten used to a protocol of vacuuming any tme I want to use it because it only gets used every five-ten days. I wouldn’t be without it, though.
Have you tried talking to a tech at Walthers? I have found them to be patient and informative. An email with a full description might yield a detailed series of trials and fixes for you.
-Crandell
I’m with Selector on this one my 130’ T/T is very reliable PROVIDING you keep it EXTREMELY clean.
What you percieve as a little debris is enough to cause those tiny gears to lock up. Trust me when I tell you when not in use cover the pit to keep dirt and dust etc. from getting in. I made the mistake of ballasting the yard tracks with the bridge in place and not putting a cover over the top of the pit. I have since learned my lesson after spending hours with the bridge apart under the magnifying glass cleaning the bejesus out of it.
Do not use white lube or anything like that for lubrication as it will only attract dirt etc. I use Lebells grease or graphite powder. the same stuff you use to lubricate a lock very sparingly. It’s reliability is the one of the things I really like about the Walthers T/T thats why I am hesitant in taking the controller apart to install a stationasry decoder. so it can be controlled from the throttle. Neat stuff but it scares me so I am smart enough to stay away for now.
There’s one similar problem I had with mine right after I hooked it up. I originally had it hooked up to 12 volt power supply, the minimum listed on the instruction sheet, but the load of the turntable motor may have drawn it down below that. I had an old Aurora Model Motoring 20 volt DC power supply that I installed in its place, and the thing has worked reliably ever since, and I’ve turned some rather heavy engines (Mantua, Bowser) with it.
Well I believe I may have found the problem. I dug up the instruction sheet and looked at the trouble shooting guide. It indicated that the problem was likely dirty wipers and they recommended a specific type of cleaner. I had used Rail Zip to clean them. I didn’t have the type they recommended but I remembered a while back I had bought another brand from Micro-Mark. I tried that and immediately noticed an improvement. I did a second application and it began operating full circle. Then it was a matter of cleaning the bridge rails and I was back in business.
You need to be careful about the power supply to the TT. Too strong a current can be worse than not strong enough. The recommendation is for no more than 18V. I used an old power pack which put out 16V which was well within the recommended range. I ended up frying the main board. I called Walthers and they told me that their experience is that the stated voltage is often higher than the actually output. I checked mine and it was actually putting out 22V. Walthers recommended a Miniatronics power source which I ordered and they replaced the fried board for nothing.
Very true, and I was suspicious of this (what seemed to me to be a…) wide range of acceptable voltages. For some reason, I elected to find a local electronics shop that would sell me an AC one and I wanted it tested to provide no more than 17 volts (my manual says 12-19 volts in either DC or AC, not a max of 18). Buddy tested it out to a true 16.5 and it is rated for half an amp…so I am good.
I seem to recall a thread here or on another forum where a person was having all sorts of problems. One of the respondents suggested he switch from a DC power supply to an AC one and to get higher voltage coming to the unit. That worked!
-Crandell