I hear you man… that other stuff can be messy. Any pic’s UP? I would love to compare the methods!
Brian
Check the thread at http://www.trains.com/TRC/CS/forums/1212714/ShowPost.aspx, where I posted some pictures from my current layout. All my roads are concrete or brick but the same methods I used to make the concrete styrene roads will work with asphalt. You just need different color paints and weathering chalks. I’ve seen really nice roads done with some of these pour and pave methods but most, frankly, look awful, with humps and bumps everywhere and cracks where you don’t want them that develop whenever they please and no matter how bad they look. It may be that I just don’t have the talent to do this kind of paving correctly but just the mess alone is enough to get me looking for some sheet styrene. [:)]
I agree it is more of a pain to put down but I have found a couple of advantages. Laying in irregular shaped or uneven areas. You can just trowel it in and smooth it out. Also patching and modifying is fairly easy. I am getting better at masking off areas where I don’t want it to go to avoid later cleanup. This has been a learning experience. Finally I get to tell my wife that I am off to the basement to lay asphalt and watch her get a funny look.
I agree. I found that I generally don’t like flat spaces on my layout, so most of my terrain is “rolling hills.” So, my roads have to go up and down, and there are a lot of curves, too. If a road crew ever excavated under my roads, they’d find a mess of pink foam, white foamboard, styrene and the occasional piece of old advertising mouse pad. The Durhams Water Putty covers all of this. It also doesn’t shrink at all, and, once you learn how to mix and apply it, it doesn’t seem to crack, either.
It is a learning experience, though. I ripped up most of my first pour, and I’ve “repaved” over parts of it, too. To me, the keys are the vinegar setting retardant, and the wet foam brush. (That suggestion came courtesy of Bob Grech, by the way. Thanks again, Bob.) Another thing I like about it is that I can pour it right up to the outside of the rail at a grade crossing, covering the ties and giving me a smooth transition. I use a strip of styrene between the rails, but I can never quite get that “perfect fit” look that I have coming up to the crossing on the outside.
try using layered masking tape
Yes, I’ve started using .060" styrene between the rails and then CA then to the ties for a form while I pour (these are on top and parallel to the ties). Once the mix starts to harden I use a putty knife and scribe along the rails to keep the flange area clear. Then I use a pair of needle nose pliers and remove the styrene. It seems to be working well so far. With the Arizona Rock & Mineral asphalt mixes I can adjust to consistency by how much water/glue mix I add in. It really is like mixing mortar or concrete, just on a much smaller scale. A bag goes a long way. A 9oz bag will make 6-8’ of two lane road.
I am very happy with the results of a different method I tried. I have a bucket of drywall mud and usually there is some more watered down mud at the top. I use a cheap coarse 3" wide paintbrush and do several layers, allowing it to dry between coats, so there is little or no cracking. I also put it on a little thicker in the center. When I am satisfied with the thickness, and it has cured for a few days, I go over it lengthwise with coarse sandpaper sanding the edges more than the center so there is a just noticeable crown. Blow off the dust and use several thin black and a little brown washes. After drying paint on any centerlines or crossing white lines. After this is dry go over it all with another thin black wash. Old asphalt is grey, but darker, than concrete grey. Don’t forget to add some patched potholes, and maybe some that need patching! jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
I’ve used Durham Water Putty with excellent results. It produces natural looking cracks. However, late last winter just before I put my modeling on hold, I discovered a new material which I love. It’s powdered joint compound which mixes like plaster and water putty but has a much longer working time. It comes in varying set up times so you can get what best suits your project. I got the one hour set up mix which is ample time for me to shape the pavement. When it hardens, it can be sanded like water putty or plaster products. It does have a little bit of a sour odor before it sets up but I can live with that.
I use foam sheets, coated with coloured plaster, which is then “cracked” by bending the foam.
I did not invent this technique, nor does my picture do justice to how good this can be. I picked it up from: http://www.telusplanet.net/public/crowley/ashphalt_roads.htm Check out the on line tutorial.
One thing I learned - get the black foam, I bought a multi-coloured package figuring I’d just paint the foam, you are far far better off paying the few pennies and buying only black. It is just 99 cents a sheet. Far as I can tell pretty much the same thing as the sheets sold for yards, but at 1/10th the price.
One huge benefit - it is easily removed from layout - and if you are careful can be moved from one spot to the other. Misjudged the size of the building, maybe you added an addition, well the road can be moved over an couple of inches. Of course this is no benefit for those who always get it perfect the first time.
This is a new and very interesting technique to me. I’ll try this. Those cracks in the pavement look terrific. Thanks.
PS…I bet a light black wash on those cracks might be really cool to bring out the depth.
FKD, I guess you didn’t notice I’d given that link on page 1 of this thread. It’s good to see how yours turned out though. It looks quite good really. I used this method on my last layout and was so pleased with it that I’ll use it on the layout I’m building now when I get to that point.
I’ve had very good results with drywall mud. It only cracks when drying if put on very thick. The crown on my roads is only as high as a rail (HO) so I’ve had no problem. Once dry it can be adjusted with a damp sponge or, if you hold a strong vaccuum cleaner nearby, sandpaper. Scale cracks and potholes are easy to carve into it and it accepts any paint.
Years later, parts can be doug out and patched with the result looking like prototype patches.
Sorry I didn’t notice the link posted earlier. Do you have any pics of your work?
I’ve tried the washes to bring out the cracks, with some success, I need to work on my technique. I think the trick is in the thin layer of plaster.