Are you using programming mode to program your decoders with your Power Cab? Or, programming it accessing individual CVs? When initially programming the address, use programming mode (press PROG/ESC 4x > ENTER > 1). This will let you program both short and long addresses. I use this to setup my decoders initially then change individual CVs (e.g CV29, CV61, CV49 & CV50, etc.) to my liking.
Greg’s advice about setting up the recall is sound. Whichever address comes up on the LCD screen, press RECALL. If it’s the same, press SELECT LOCO and enter the other address then press ENTER. Now press the RECALL button and you should be able to toggle between the two addresses.
The time is the default setting on your Power Cab and the voltage current reading is only viewable if you change the settings in your Power Cab. You must have activated that feature when you were entering values into your Power Cab.
[Edit: Restarting your Power Cab (by unplugging and plugging it back into your PCP panel socket) will return the time display default.]
I finally have both engine programmed into my PowerCab and can switch between the two with the Recall buttion.
However, I can’t get both the run at the same time. I can blow the horns and bells on both. The light are always iffy. When I power up engine #1 to move FWD (or REV) it with start to move. Then while it’s running FWD I start engine #2 but it won’t move at all. The sound will rev up but no movement. If at this point I disconnect the cable from the PowerCab and plug it right back it, both engine will now run as commanded. Seems I have to do this everythime I power up to get control on each engine at the same time.
Yes, this was a brand new PowerCab. At first it displayed the time but after trying to figure out how to grogram, I now only get the voltage/current reading.
I only have one 3’ tracked wire to my PowerCab for just testing and programming as far. It will be some time before I’ll have my layout where I can test anything on. So my little 3 footer is just for texting and programming.
Next time I get into running through the programming I will take detailed notes. That’s why I prefer video tutorials. I learn much faster seeing rather than reading. Once you get past the quick setup things get confusing quickly.
I’m using the Programming Mode. Programming individual CV’s is still a bit beyond my scope of understanding right now. I know they can control every aspect you engine has to offer, but I have to take it one step at a time. Or have detail instructions on how to do ??? whatever.
I wish I had proper video equipment to make one for you.
Have to disagree with my friend Tom. Once you program it to show amps, it it is not temporary; is stays until you reprogram it. However that isn’t the cause of your problems. That said, I have no explanation of what you describe. I also think if you got a bad Powercab, unplugging it and plugging it back in wouldn’t help. I vote for a Power Cab reset.
To reset the Power Cab
Push the Program/esc key 5 times
Push the Enter key 12 times
Press 6, it will ask you if you are sure, then Press 1
The only downside of this is that you will have to enter your locos again so recall will work. The instructions don’t say you have to cycle the power off and on, but at the cost of 4 seconds out of your life, why not?
For anyone without a Powercab, to display current, you have to push the Program button 6 times, before that option comes up.
Edit Just saw your post, while I was composing mine. Just to be crystal clear, the first time you press the Program/esc key is Ops Programming the 4th time is Program Track. What do you mean by Programming Mode?
That’s what I had originally thought, Henry. When I tried it last night the time setting was restored when I cycled the power. When I tried it again this evening, however, it stayed on the current setting. [:S] I was able to restore the time setting when I got into the Cab Parameter setup (pressing PROG/ESC 6x) then cycling through the commends until it took me back to the main screen.
I’m still have not found out how to turn my CLOCK display on my NEC PowerCab. I still just get the “track current” read out. Does anybody know how to switch to display the CLOCK?
Anybody?
I’d post photos here but that feature doesn’t work in this forum. I’ve tried.
Thanks Henry. I got my CLOCK back. Slowing learning my way through the process of programing. I just got my 3rd engine and changed my PowerCab to accept 3 engines.
I quickly realized that my 2 ScaleTrain engines are by far better quality products in performance and sound than compaired to my new engine from Broadway. My EMD SD40-2 by far has the best sound. Both ScaleTrain engines have the best realistic momentum from starting from a full stop, ramping up speed and going back to 000.
50 years ago my dad developed a DC controller modeled after real diesal engine throttles that had realistic momentum from 0 to 60MPH and back to 0 (HO scale model MPH). He ran adds in Model Railroader. Don’t know how many he sold but I helpped assemble a bunch of them.
That question has been asked several times before on the forum and the answer is always…“It depends”. Every manufacturer makes winners and duds so you have to take each manufactured locomotive on a case-by-case basis.
Detail is contingent on the manufacturer’s design and attention to detail of the prototype. Realistic operation and sound, OTOH, is pretty much up to the decoder manufacturer and the quality of the sound files. One exception would be an OEM decoder made specifically for the manufacturer’s particular locomotive by the sound decoder manufacturer.
Of the “Big Three” sound decoder company’s - i.e. Soundtraxx, ESU, and TCS, the latter two are the best at motor-control and realistic operation. I think Soundtraxx & TCS are the leaders on steam files and ESU & TCS are better than Soundtraxx in regards to diesel sounds - at least that’s been my experience.
So, again - “best” is contingent on a number of factors and doesn’t necessary transfer across board to one particular manufacturer.
I think it’s pretty much impossible to beat the ScaleTrains Rivet Counter series in plastic. No one else’s palstic locos come close. Of course there’s a price, literally, to pay for that nice detail. Plus they make nothing of interest to me. I don’t much care for modern railroading.