I’ve been looking into a couple of NYC F3s for a nice little passenger train on my layout. PCM and Proto both make a model of these, but the PCM is a little pricey for me. So how are the Proto 1000 versions?
I see that they have a DCC plug, so could you just plug in a Soundtraxx DCC/sound module without much install hassle?
NYCentral1,
Proto 1000s have the exact same mechanism but not the detailing of their more expensive sibling, the Proto 2000s. The detailing is still good but not as good as the Proto 2000s. I have 3 Proto 2000 Alco S1s and they are among my best runners. I would expect the same of the 1000s.
Tom
I’ve heard this for years, and probably even said this myself a few times, but in the case of the F3s, since there are no Proto-2000 versions (yet), what mechanism do they use - the GP drive?
If it’s like the DL109, it isn’t LITERALLY a new shell on an existing chassis, the chassis is built for that loco, but uses the same motor and design (and surely the same type of drive shafts and gears) of the P2K locos. That’s really more of what is meant by saying the P1K locos have P2K drives.
–Randy
You guys are wrong. Proto 1000 engines do NOT use the same motors as Proto 2000 engines.
I have a Proto 1000 F3 and an RS-18. They both have a fully inclosed Can motor.The rest of the drive train is basically the same as Proto 2000.
My Proto 2000 locos (E-8,GP7, GP9, FA-1, FA-2) all have a motor that is an Athearn “clone”.
Proto 1000 locos all run very well, but mine both will make a funny sound when stopping if they are pushed slightly by another loco with better flywheels. Has anyone else noticed this?
Funny, the motor in the DL109 looks just like the one in my GP-7’s.
The noise is common to all Protos, there is just too much slop in the drivetrain and the worms slide back and forth and bind and release. Usually only happens when the loco is pushed - like you said or if running downgrade with a heavy train pushing. Add a DCC decoder with back-emf and it gets worse. A few thrust washers from NWSL fixes it though.
–Randy.
I was looking for a F3 to pull my passenger train. Intermountain has the best detail of all of the brands and if you check out the Web, they can be had for $75 or less. I trully believe the Intermountain is the best bang for the buck, but only if your like realistic detail. I worked on F3s and the detail brought back a lot of memorys.
Im not saying these are the best since sliced bread, but if possable examine the Proto, Genesis and Intermountain side by side, look at the trucks, and the side grill and you can see what the others missed… Perhaps Intermountain is a sleeper, they are not that pricy…if you shop the web.
I purchased a F3 A&B, they run smooth, quiet, great at slow speeds, …John
John,
That would also describe Stewart locomotives to a tee, although the detailing may not be as good as the Intermountain. My Stewart FT with a Lenz Gold decoder absolutely crawls on speed step 001.
Tom
I have a Proto 1000 F3 and it is a good puller. One of the best locos I have.
I don’t know anything about the relationship between the guts of the F3 and the P2K series. I have a pair of these and they are nice and heavy. They pull well and are quiet runners. The detail is fairly basic, similar to the Athearn Blue Box line, in that it is all basically molded on detail, rather than applied detail like the P2K’s. It has been ages since I converted them to DCC, but if I recal correctly it is not just a plug and play, you have to cut a couple of tracks on the installed light board. I consider them an excellent deal, especially at the discount prices that they can be found at. They are perfect locomotives for kids to handle.
Before you call Intermountain the best, be aware they are mounted too high on the trucks. This has been pointed out several times. People have been mounting them on Genisis trucks to get them to the correct height. The same is true of the FP7 just released. I have some of each, and the Intermountain are taller than everything else.
Stewarts have practically NO detailing compared to Intermountain and Genesis, however detail kits are available from one of the Details companies (I never remember which products come from Detail Associates and which come from Details West). And it’s hard to beat the ultra-smooth running Buhler can motors they use. At least the new numbered units now have numbers in the number boards, mine is from an older run that did not have them so I have to do it myself wuth a decal set.
–Randy
Jsoderg Your point is well taken about the height…however I was looking at the detail of all F3s that I could afford, and Intermountain to me was the better. However as you say the height…thanks I did not know that and will add a Int F7B to my passenger mix since WP seldom ran a true set of 3s or 7s, but mixed them due to maintainance…
My next will be Stewerts FT and F7s. I know where I can get some older (new in box) Stewerts with the older Kato drives. But that is down the road a bit, on a fixed income,LOL…take care…John