Hi all,
I am a little mystified that Proto units have components looking almost identical in their mechanisms but the Proto units seem to have less current draw and better slow speed characteristics. Has anyone a rational explanation as to what the difference is that the Proto mechanism seems to be a better proposition despite being a copy?
Thanks for any help to at least clear my mind on this one!
Regards
Trevor www.xdford.digitalzones.com FYI
Actually the Athearn motor is a stronger motor than the proto motor even though there is more current draw. Look at how many more motor windings there are and the size of the motor winding wire on the athearn than on the proto. That’s the difference. I’d choose an Athearn motor over a proto motor anyday…chuck
[#ditto]
I use Athearn motors in many repowering projects. They may be a little noisy but they perform better.
And the new ones only use .25a or less if properly lubed…
I never bothered to worry about the motors to be honest here, I always concerned with cracking plastic gears.
Now the OLD athearn motors I stay away from if possible, those draw huge amounts of power.
You mean the ones you can use as model aircraft starters?[(-D]
[#ditto][#ditto][#ditto]
I am not a Proto fan by any means. I do have some but I do not run them as much as Atlas or Athearn. I found that yes they are quiet and the detail is super but, I just cant stand that when you buy a new locomotive you already need to replace parts or send it back for repair. I have had about 20 or so Protos and about 1/2 have had to go back due to cracked gears and some have even come from the factory with the motor bound up. I talked to some of the individuals at the club and they have had the same issue with the motor. When it runs it sounds like an old Pinto without any oil. On some occasion’s I have sent them out and when I got them back they were just as bad, if not worse. So my [2c]] I just stay away from them and stick to the old reliable companies. Yes I know that Atlas and Athearn have had some issues and yes I have gotten some bad apples from them as well but the percentage towards bad eggs is leaning towards Proto. They should stick to making train sets. Sorry for the rant but I just mailed out my last Proto 38-2 in P&LE with another motor problem. This was new in the box, yes I could fix it but why should I ? I think that if they keep getting them back maybe, just maybe they will get it right.
It depends on how old. The blue box motors from the late 80’s and 90’s are in the peformance reports rate around 0.5 amps. It helps to know that for decoders etc.
Also, I recall some runs of the Proto 2000 PA’s having a high motor current draw, so it might be wise to check that out where it matters.
I remember having a blue box Athearn loco that was real noisy and drew a lot of current. I took out the motor and tested it by itself, and it took very little current to get it going. It also ran quietly. I think the real causes of noise and excessive current draw are the gears and couplings in blue box locos. The new RTR Athearns have smaller couplings and driveshafts, as do all Life-Like Proto locos with similar motors, and I think that is why they run smoother and quieter.
The older Athearn motors (Jet 400 and Jet 600) aren’t much different than the new ones. The only major difference is the magnet. The old Jet series motors have an oval magnet surrounding the commutator, while the new Athearn motors have a brass flat can type enclosure with small magnets above and below the commutator. Athearn went to the newer design so they could make their GP38 and SD40 locos with scale width hoods.
The newer motors are also skew-wound, which makes them more efficient at low speed.